Suggested Spring Rates For Track Work

[Do-Luck]

I'm almost at the process of purchasing new coilovers for my 180sx (Tein Mono-Flex) and they come with spring rates of F:7kg and R:5kg.

Now, the plan for the car is to get new wheels and run RE55s on them, yet I have the feeling the spring rates on the coilovers may be too soft.

Can anyone confirm whether or not they will be sufficient?

[zebra]

Throw in some thicker sway bars if you havent aready.

Better to control body roll with those rather than BS stiff springs

[Roy]

Worst case they will be a good starting point. What tyres are you planning on running ?

The Mono-Flex are meant to be a decent shock, better then the Super Street and there are plenty of happy/quick cars running around with them. LOL, i havent forgotten either about looking for some shocks for you, problem is i keep finding S14/15, not S13

[khunjeng]

I'm almost at the process of purchasing new coilovers for my 180sx (Tein Mono-Flex) and they come with spring rates of F:7kg and R:5kg.

Now, the plan for the car is to get new wheels and run RE55s on them, yet I have the feeling the spring rates on the coilovers may be too soft.

Can anyone confirm whether or not they will be sufficient?

F:7kg and R:5kg sounds stiff enough assuming you still drive a car a bit on the street.

[BHDave]

They'll do as a starting point. They are plenty hard, you could probably drop a kg/mm or 2 at either end when the rest of the package is up to scratch.

Get sway bars.

[Kaido_RR]

what other suspension mods do you have?

its very common for 180sx/s13 to run high spring rate, but that doesn't mean a high spring rate is better, there are alot of factors which you need to take into account.

like afew mention above its a good starting point, if the car feels to soft then you can easily buy some larger spring rates locally.

all so in my personal opinion there is nothing wrong with running a large spring rate like 10/10, but each to their own

Roy look here for s13 coilovers http://search1.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/sea...ode=1&apg=1

[Roy]

Roy look here for s13 coilovers http://search1.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/sea...ode=1&apg=1

Yeh, but they are all crap, im on the lookout for one of 3 models of shocks. Otherwise the SK GB is the best alternative. A few S13 guys in NSW are running them to good effect

[Do-Luck]

Have no other suspension mods at current, but plan to install front and rear swaybars as well as bushes, and maybe castor rods when the coilovers get installed. I also have a daily driver, so the main intention of my car is for track/motorkhana events. It doesn't matter too much on how streetable the car will be, because it will rarely be driven on the street. (Although it will remain registered).

Troy, I've budgeted for new coilovers now, so probably go down that route lol, plus I plan to be running RE55's.

[BHDave]

Personal opinion here. I wouldn't worry about most of the bushes straight away if they are in reasonable condition, definitely get the caster rods.

I would add adjustable rear upper control arms and alloy subframe collars to the list.

[Roy]

Other then some Nismo replacement lower control arms, what do S13/R32 owners do to freshen up the lower control arms? Moonface do new bushes that are meant to also help with correcting the roll centre of lowered cars...only i start to get worried about having too much adjustability in the suspension as i fear you will spend forever and a day chasing a good setup

[BHDave]

I just re bushed mine with noltec poly jobs and added some mfr roll center adjusters on the rear and copy ones on the front. I swapped to an s14 front LCA recently to get more camber/track so need to rebush that eventually.

They're not adjustable so its just a case of setting the ride height to maintain the LCA geometry, and then play with ride heights to alter your roll center if you want to do it that way.

You don't run your car that low anyway do you roy? You may as well save the money on the non adjustable RCAs

[Do-Luck]

Bushes need to be changed because they are standard, and have deteriorated and cracked, so I figure whilst doing all this other suspension mods to the car, why not do the bushes at the same time

So the general consensus is that the spring rates above will suffice for track work?

[Roy]

I just re bushed mine with noltec poly jobs and added some mfr roll center adjusters on the rear and copy ones on the front. I swapped to an s14 front LCA recently to get more camber/track so need to rebush that eventually.

They're not adjustable so its just a case of setting the ride height to maintain the LCA geometry, and then play with ride heights to alter your roll center if you want to do it that way.

You don't run your car that low anyway do you roy? You may as well save the money on the non adjustable RCAs

LOL, you the man! You have done all the rehash work on your R32 already so making my learning curve so much easier. THANKS!

Do-Luck...what wheels are you planning on running, You were having problems with rubbing last time out

[Do-Luck]

I'm going to run Work Emotion XT7's in 17x9 +17... The main problem I had with rubbing with my current wheels is mainly due to my worn out coilovers, and not having enough camber.

[khunjeng]

I'm going to run Work Emotion XT7's in 17x9 +17... The main problem I had with rubbing with my current wheels is mainly due to my worn out coilovers, and not having enough camber.

arh nice choice...

[BHDave]

I'm going to run Work Emotion XT7's in 17x9 +17... The main problem I had with rubbing with my current wheels is mainly due to my worn out coilovers, and not having enough camber.

I really hope you have wide guards

By the time you put a 235 re55 on those wheels i reckon you will need at least 30mm extra width on each side at the front and maybe 20mm at the rear

The only s13's i know that have been able to run 235's up front with stock guards have been dumhedz NA nugget thats at almost stock height with pretty ordinary offset wheels and too_much_boosts sil80 and he also had to wind the front height right up to stop it scrubbing with pretty ordinary offset wheels (he had to use a 2mm slip on to stop the tyre hitting the strut as well, so pretty poor offset).

[Do-Luck]

I'm not 100% certain about the offsets, but sort of just getting some ideas at the moment. Main thing to sort out is the suspension first.

Would you maybe suggest I run 17x8 +25 up front, while leaving the 17x9 +17 on the rear?

[Sydneykid]

I wouldn't advise using the guard clearance to determine how much camber you run. Different circuits demand different cambers and (more importantly) what you run on the track should be far more than what you would want to on the road for tyre wear reasons alone.

For tyre clearance you would be best advised to use a strut leg with more than standard offset to the upright (hub). This gives room for camber and also enables you to run wheels with more offset (inwards) for increased guard clearance. We have run 235/40/17 A048's on 8" rims with camber between 1.5 degree negative (road) and 4 degrees negative (Philip Island). This requires adjustable strut tops and offset camber pins.

Cheers

Gary

[Roy]

I just re bushed mine with noltec poly jobs and added some mfr roll center adjusters on the rear and copy ones on the front. I swapped to an s14 front LCA recently to get more camber/track so need to rebush that eventually.

They're not adjustable so its just a case of setting the ride height to maintain the LCA geometry, and then play with ride heights to alter your roll center if you want to do it that way.

You don't run your car that low anyway do you roy? You may as well save the money on the non adjustable RCAs

My car isnt overly low. That said i cant find the listing on FAST for OE replacement lower control ball joints that bolt to the hub. Noltec may make inner arm bushes, but not the ball joints that bolt to the hub. (excuse me if i am using the wrong terms).

[BHDave]

Your terminology is correct enough that i know what you are talking about

The only reason i'd suggest steering clear of the RCA's is that they effect the track and camber once they are installed. I had major issues trying to regain front camber after i fitted them (s14 LCA was needed to get me back to around the 3 degree mark). Rear was ok as i had adjustable upper arms but i then ran into problems with the inside of the rear rim scrubbing on the LCA (it was close to begin with) until i spaced it out a bit further.