Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Factory Amp Bypass Diy

falcon

By falcon,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

falcon Contributor

falcon

Posted
Posted

Here is a quick DIY to bypass your factory amp in the rear of the car.

First things first, you will need the following to do this.

wire cutters

saudering iron (not needed but reccomended for a clean install.

electrical tape or heat shrink tube

1) Disconnect the white clip in the back of the factory amp. The amp is located underneath the rear shelf in the trunk. It's a bit tight to get in there but get used to it because you will be there for a while. My amp looked like this (1A) but I've heard they come in various sizes. Use your common sense here and you will be able to find the right one.

1A

DSCF1735320x200.jpg

2) Next, we will be cutting the wires one by one on the back of the clip and attaching them togethor (DONT DO THIS YET!!). Now to attach them, you can sauder or twist them or use butt connectors... whichever you feel like doing. But make sure the connection is solid and won't come apart.

Refer to this picture for the following steps!!

DSCF1786640x480320x200-1.jpg

Now make sure your clip is facing the same way mine is. Look carefully at the notches in the picture and the direction of the holes. THIS IS VERY IMPORTAINT! Also I would suggest doing this 2 wires at a time, so you dont loose track of which wires are which.

3)First two wires to cut are the numbers 1 and 3. Cut them, and sauder the ends togethor. Don't forget to put the heat shrink on before you sauder.

4)The next two wires are numbers 6 and 8. Again, cut them off at the back and attach them togethor in your chosen method.

5)Next two wires are 2 and 4. Cut them, attach them togethor.

6)The last two wires are 7 and 5. Attach these two togethor.

You should have a few wires left over but we are only concerned about 1-8. Don't worry about the numbers 9-12. Just cap them off so they can't touch anything.

If you followed these instructions correctly, your amp is now bypassed. Have fun listening to music through good speakers. :-D

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203299-r32-factory-amp-bypass-diy/
Share on other sites
  • 8 years later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • The Bogan
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By The Bogan · Posted

      From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • GTSBoy
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Shoota_77
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • The Bogan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...