Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think Microtech got it all screwed up.

Pin 30 is (nearly always) +12V

85 / 85a are the 2 pins oriented at right angles to Pin 30 (assuming a standard Bosch 5-pin relay here). These are outputs.

Pins 86 / 87 are parallel to Pin 30, and they do the switching so that Pin 30 connects power to 85 / 85a.

Thus:

......._

....I.._..I

........I

.........85

....86 85a 87

.........30

(Ignore the dots, just so that the spacing comes out right)

So

30 = +12V

87 => MT8

86 <= ignition power

85 => pump

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20339-fuel-pump-wiring-for-microtech/
Share on other sites

Okay,

blind_elk: My relay has the following pins:

......._

....I.._..I

........I

.........87

....86 87a 85

.........30

Even wiring it up as you suggested (swapping 87 with 85) still didn't work, but the relay still turns off after 5 seconds or so.

kjb_r33: Power is coming out of the constant power line which is fused via a 15 amp fuse. Power is also coming out of the contacts when connected.

Has anyone wired an aftermarket computer in an R31 aussie built skyline? Loce to hear from you.

Cheers

Dean

Something interesting I just found. When the ignition is turned off, the positive off the fuel pump is really ground and when the ignition is turned on, it has power. What is going on here?

Six wires come from the fuel pump. One is an earth, two are for the fuel warning lamp and gauge, one goes to the fuse box and the others go to the computer. The ones that go to the computer (white & black) are both via a shielded cable. Can Someone tell me how to wire up these two wires.

Or do I use the wire that runs from the fuel pump to the fusebox instead?

Okay, spoken to microtech and they said that I need the positive wire from the fuel pump connected to the right pin. Can Someone tell me what wire from the pump to the computer is the positive one (r31 aussie built). The white wire that is shielded has negative power when the ignition is turned off but has positive power when the igintion is turned on. The black wire that goes with this wire has nothing (no power or ground). It can;t be the white wire as I have connected it up to the relay but no fuel pump. Is there another that I'm missing? The wire that goes to the fuse box (blue or green?), is that positive power from the pump?

Cheers

Dean

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Speaking of diverting threads, my second ever NISMO purchase…. I think they look pretty classy and just wanted to share 😅   PS: 1st was the oil drain plug 😂  
    • R12 has not been not available for....decades now. Propane is not a great replacement. (I mean, it's a great replacement, but it is a bit too flammable). R134a being the only way to go forward with an R12 system. The design pressures etc, are close enough to R12's to work. The ability to move heat around is close enough to R12's to work.
    • Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays  
    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
×
×
  • Create New...