R33 Problem Help Plz!

[wirelessnz]

hi i have a R33 GTS25T 1996 series 2, the motor was standard and I added a boost controller profec b2 and a blow off valve, also the exhaust is not standard, it came from japan it, its a pretty decent exhaust, anyway after the mods were done and running the car on 13psi it started to making ticking noises when the turbo was spooling, we took it back several times and finally they came to the conclusion it was the solenoid for the boost controller, however the car was also making a squeal/scrape sound along with the ticking, it would also jerk a lot, like fuel cut or something, and even though the boost gauge said it was boosting it felt like there was no boost at all, changing between high and low didn't really do much, the ticking sound has come back along with the scraping sound, after it had 'already been fixed' i appreciate if any of you guys can help me with this problem

sorry for wall of text

[wirelessnz]

bump... someone has to know

Edited January 29, 2008 by wirelessnz

[Al]

The ticking noise is normal IF the solenoid has been mounted directly on the car body. Use a rubber/foam buffer in between the solenoid and the car.

The scrapping sounds like the turbo is gone

Remove the intake pipe off the turbo and check for excessive play. The shaft should only move about 0.5mm back and forth, there should be no up/down movement.

13psi is pretty high for a std car/turbo.

Is the exhaust complete from the turbo-back or is it std from turbo-to-cat and then aftermarket from cat-back?

Do you have a FMIC?

Was the car checked on a dyno after mods had been fitted?

[wirelessnz]

the solenoid had a rubber mount put behind it to stop the sound, we took the pipe off to the turbo, there is no play up,down,left,right, only a tiny bit back and forth like you said, the exhaust is complete back from the turbo, there is no fmic (yet) the car has just done 120,000kms. after the rubber mount was put on the ticking and scraping sound went away, but since i got it back it still felt like it was lacking boost regardless of whatever the boost gauge was saying, but now the ticking and scraping sound is back. but after taking all the piping off and checking the turbo shaft it seemed to be ok for about 1 week now its ticking again and making a squeal/scraping sound i took it down the motorway in 3rd and u can really hear it it gets louder and faster as the revs climb, i've been doing a bit of reading and some people say that sound could be a blown gasket on exhaust flange, but im not sure. it only ever started doing this problem since the guy at ***** adjusted the blow valve tighter so it wasn't so loud and wouldn't blow off much, because we thought it had a vacuum leak because it stalls sometimes, now we think its the afm but thats another problem, also the other problem is once its boosting it jerks so violently u almost hit the windscreen, once it even left tyre marks on the road, this jerk can happen at as little rpm as 2,500 and all the way up, its incredible annoying and definitely cant be good. car has not been dyno'd yet, we're afraid if it jerks it on the dyno something bad might happen

again sorry for the wall of txt

[angryghost]

i'm no pro, but try adding an oil catch can, or check your filters, if it is jerking it soulds like you might have a blockage

[wirelessnz]

after taking the car to protune, we learnt that it was the blow off valve thats leaking air and making that sound.

however the jerking is quite something else, he said he's pretty sure its not the coils or spark plugs as the whole engine completely stops for a second, sometimes the wheels screech, however he did put it on the dyno and on 15psi (he was checking if it had a boost cut, which it does not, neither speed cut) it made just over 190kw at the wheels.

but still no idea on the jerking, it can be so violent its like you're about to go out the windscreen.

also the car is running normal oil pressure and the oil and filter was changed not so long ago. fuel filter and spark plugs were also done, and they were correctly gapped.

If you guys have any other ideas, I'd appreciate it, don't want to have to send it to nissan (just yet) and cost an arm and a leg.

Edited February 3, 2008 by wirelessnz

[boostdef]

after taking the car to protune, we learnt that it was the blow off valve thats leaking air and making that sound.

however the jerking is quite something else, he said he's pretty sure its not the coils or spark plugs as the whole engine completely stops for a second, sometimes the wheels screech, however he did put it on the dyno and on 15psi (he was checking if it had a boost cut, which it does not, neither speed cut) it made just over 190kw at the wheels.

but still no idea on the jerking, it can be so violent its like you're about to go out the windscreen.

also the car is running normal oil pressure and the oil and filter was changed not so long ago. fuel filter and spark plugs were also done, and they were correctly gapped.

If you guys have any other ideas, I'd appreciate it, don't want to have to send it to nissan (just yet) and cost an arm and a leg.

Do these things get bowout with increased boost? Maybe check the spark plug gap? Im not sure, I am only new to Skylines(Just bought an r33), but I had this problem with my custom turboed falcon.

The extra boost did not allow the plugs to spark.

Its either that or its running lean.

Try turning boost down and see if it makes a difference.

[wirelessnz]

Spark plug gap is 0.7mm

car is definitely not running lean, the o2 sensor is not plugged in, its stuffed anyway. It is very very bad on fuel considering it's standard except exhaust, bov , boost controller.

Spark plugs were originally not correctly gapped and it did have problems misfiring and what not at about 5k-6k rpm, after the regap it fixed the problem.

Not sure if I've noticed the problem on low boost, however that defeats the purpose of spending 900 bucks on the boost controller, of course more mods to come as money allows.

It's getting some new mags on Thursday and getting plugged into a diagnostic computer to check for errors, I'll post the findings on here once I know.

any help is appreciated!!!

[R33silverS2]

Spark plug gap is 0.7mm

car is definitely not running lean, the o2 sensor is not plugged in, its stuffed anyway. It is very very bad on fuel considering it's standard except exhaust, bov , boost controller.

Spark plugs were originally not correctly gapped and it did have problems misfiring and what not at about 5k-6k rpm, after the regap it fixed the problem.

Not sure if I've noticed the problem on low boost, however that defeats the purpose of spending 900 bucks on the boost controller, of course more mods to come as money allows.

It's getting some new mags on Thursday and getting plugged into a diagnostic computer to check for errors, I'll post the findings on here once I know.

any help is appreciated!!!

What ecu do you have?? Did you mention one, or do you just have standard? Cos r33 ecu's freak out after 12psi, and run very badly. Rich and retard which would explain your non-feeling of boost when the car shows its on boost as the mixtures are ritchened and the timing retarded by the ecu to prevent it knocking and overboosting etc. If this is the case, turn the boost down to 11psi and it will go back to normal and probably still make simular figures power wise. Put it this way my car makes 202rwkw on 12psi, whereas you did 190 on 15psi... -mind you i have a powerfc. A cheaper fix is an safc. I also wouldn't reccomentd running more than 12psi on the standard ceramic hairdryer... unless you want it flying out the back of your exhasut and or potentailly into the engine.

Also on my standard ecu i experienced this violent jerking you speak of, kinda feels like someone slamming on the brakes when your on boost, and if you didn't have a seatbelt on you'd fly through the windshield.. All i can say is the standard ecu is rubbish with increased boost. Turn the boost to 10 -12 and both your problems should be fixed.. and remember your still gettin use out of your boost controller as that boost is still double that of factory.

[wirelessnz]

ECU is standard, but it has been modified for the boost cut and speed limit afaik, it came from japan like that. A new ECU is on the cards but probably after a fmic and forward plenum. Thanks for your advice R33silverS2

[Al]

ECU is standard, but it has been modified for the boost cut and speed limit afaik, it came from japan like that. A new ECU is on the cards but probably after a fmic and forward plenum. Thanks for your advice R33silverS2

No offense but sounds like you're taking your car to guys that only deal with local NA cars, or have no clue.

Take you car to a known import tuner, someone that has a good reputation, on these forums, and in your state.

Boost cut and speed limit cut have nothing to do with having a tuned ecu and tuning the car for your level of mods. Who told you your ecu has a boost/speed cut? The sever jerking is what i experienced on a cold night, when i had a std ecu, at 12psi and the ecu activated the boost cut, as it over boosted, due to the very cold air.

If your mechanic had an idea, there would be no way that he would run 15psi on a std turbo with a std ecu and smic. Is he trying to blow your turbo/engine on purpose?

- Lower boost to 10psi

- Purchase FMIC

- Purchase aftermarket ECU

- Increase boost to 12psi.

Do it in that order, otherwise you are asking for trouble and a big hole in your pocket.

If you want more power after that, you'll need fuel pump, injectors and turbo.

Then if you're aiming to make over 280rwkw, you may consider buying a forward plenum, otherwise your just spending money in the wrong places.

[wirelessnz]

the only reason it was put on 15psi was to check if it would cut out, but it ran on 15psi without cutting out, it also did 240km/h on the dyno, both these things i've been told a standard ecu would not allow. any reason in getting the front mount before the ecu? except to avoid double tuning?

[R33silverS2]

No offense but sounds like you're taking your car to guys that only deal with local NA cars, or have no clue.

Take you car to a known import tuner, someone that has a good reputation, on these forums, and in your state.

Boost cut and speed limit cut have nothing to do with having a tuned ecu and tuning the car for your level of mods. Who told you your ecu has a boost/speed cut? The sever jerking is what i experienced on a cold night, when i had a std ecu, at 12psi and the ecu activated the boost cut, as it over boosted, due to the very cold air.

If your mechanic had an idea, there would be no way that he would run 15psi on a std turbo with a std ecu and smic. Is he trying to blow your turbo/engine on purpose?

- Lower boost to 10psi

- Purchase FMIC

- Purchase aftermarket ECU

- Increase boost to 12psi.

Do it in that order, otherwise you are asking for trouble and a big hole in your pocket.

If you want more power after that, you'll need fuel pump, injectors and turbo.

Then if you're aiming to make over 280rwkw, you may consider buying a forward plenum, otherwise your just spending money in the wrong places.

I totally agree with the above ^^

I must say when i first read about this, my first thought was that your mechanic had no idea as he should know that any r33 with standard ecu does not like boost above 12psi. R33 ecu's are very difficult to re-tune and even if yours has been to some degree, it obviously hasn't removed the factory over boost protection. You can boost an r33 to 20psi if you want ans the turbo will try and make it but the ecu will run different maps and result in less power to save your engine. On cold nights i would often hit this and in worst case would hit what felt like a fuel cut - as Al said caused by the cold denser air. The other thing is your mechanic should know / have told you not to be running anything over 10psi without an fmic or intercooler upgrade as your intake temps would be very bad and dangerous for the engine. Go somewhere that deals with skylines regularly, and run your boost under 11 till you get more supporting mods.

[Slapstik]

Had something sort of similar in my 33, Would drive fine for a while and coughed and spluttered, shook violently and made me feel generally unsafe when it happened. It was basically stalling and jump starting itself constantly. after much investigation i randomly fiddled with the AFM loom plug and the car stalled, It turned out that it was the AFM. I got a second hand one and stripped the old one down to find that the loom connections in the AFM had broken off and were intermittantly touching.

Maybe look into this??