Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Feels Like It Loses Power When Hitting Boost?


gtrzilla
 Share

Recommended Posts

in my 32 gtr

when i hit boost say 3000 - 3500 or so rpm the car feels like it goes slower

revs jump up but you actually feel like you lose power!

im thinking it may be a clutch slipping

does anyone have any ideas or had the same problem

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...does anyone have any ideas or had the same problem

Sure, if your driving, and hit peak tourqe and the revs flare, but you aren't accelerating anymore (or minimally) then your clutch is prolly slipping. Does it re-grip later in the revs?

Get a mate to drive behind you, he should be able to smell the acrid smoke.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

clutch slip for sure dude!

find level ground, apply hand brake, push clutch in and select 4th gear, let clutch out slowly.....if it stalls your clutch will last a little longer if your cruise round off boost, if it doesnt stall, she's a rooted!

When you replace the clutch, it would be worth getting a new rear main seal and your flywheel machined. The flywheel machining is critical as if you dont get it machined, you can get severe clutch shudder when taking off with the new clutch is installed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^ No offence, but f_ck a flywheel skim, assuming your on a mission to mod (its a GTR) grab a twinplate and lightened f.wheel combo now, otherwise you'll just be trying to hock your newish OEM clutch and re-surfaced f.wheel in the for sale section down the road.

Edited by GeeTR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

new exceedy clutch in and all better !!!

just had the fly machined

did the timing belt and all that at same time

so lets say i could just about add 2 g to my gtr purchase price

but now everything is freshened up :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have recently fitted a Nismo GT Pro Center second Hand buy still in the box i got stubs with it but they are 5 bolt and I need 6 (3x2) I was told by Just Jap that for a 4:36 ratio the stub axles are equal length sku 38220-0V161. They didn't have any in stock but I picked up the ones pictured. The one with 5 bolt are the ones that came with the LSD. The right side went in no issues but the right....I have happened the fk out of it put it in a press and it still sticks out about 5mm too far. It was sticking out about 25mm but after bashing it like Chris Brown did to Rhianna I managed to get it a bit further in but seems stuck again now. Any ideas? Should I just leave it 5mm out and send it?        
    • Meh. I "see" a typo above, that should have been "sell".
    • The clutch pedal has a procedure for adjustment. This can only be done after you are 100% sure the system is absolutely free of air bubbles. You must bleed the clutch master cylinder first, then the "separation pipe" which is the clutch damper line, then the operating cylinder as detailed in the service manual. Also, you must fully depress the clutch pedal between shifts. Just because you can't feel it grabbing does not mean the input shaft is truly decoupled from the crank. At high RPM clutch plates are vibrating and moving around, you need to give it the best possible chance of success. On the BCNR33 Nissan revises these adjustment procedures slightly but not by much: I would be careful with trying to play games with these adjustments. As for the Nismo operating cylinder they say a lot of things. In practice the twin plate clutch needs less movement on the clutch fork to disengage because the whole stackup of the flywheel + friction plates + pressure plate is much taller. Personally if you find that the clutch still disengages too high at the top of the travel I would try the Nismo operating cylinder. Make sure to follow the air bleed procedures. 
    • Thank you for the links. I’m going to go with the 6pin plug you used. next step is rust treating re painting dash support bar and steering column then the 6pin cradle plug when it arrives in the mail.
    • I don't how much the car makes a difference or whether it is just a question of gearbox and clutch. On mine it's fine. Pull type Nismo coppermix twin (standard, not competition) on the 5 speed in my Stagea. OEM slave cylinder. Bite point is a few cm off the very bottom of the pedal. Clutch pedal all the way down to put in gear, and when heading off at the lights, there's a tiny bit of nothing and then it starts biting. And fully engaged before the pedal is all the way released. There's a bit of play at the top where the pedal does nothing anymore. Are you in Australia @ck_chino? If you are set on using a Nismo slave cylinder I have one new-in-box at home. Ordered it together with the clutch but didn't get it fitted. We can work something out if you want it
×
×
  • Create New...