Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 9/18/2018 at 12:04 PM, niZmO_Man said:

Nismo LM bodykit

I don't even think they exist but too Boxy anyways. With the R33 GTR, I think the standard series 3 with probably some sideskirts and it will look nice as is. I hate cheap bodykits on them.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/22/2018 at 12:28 PM, Robocop2310 said:

I don't even think they exist but too Boxy anyways. With the R33 GTR, I think the standard series 3 with probably some sideskirts and it will look nice as is. I hate cheap bodykits on them.

Do you even Gran Turismo bro?
1317113098767023976.jpg

hqdefault.jpg

 

Or can make something similar
http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/09/theres-wide-and-then-theres-this/

rsmeeting2018_dalle_carbonare_129-1200x8

rsmeeting2018_dalle_carbonare_133-1200x8

 

 

?

  • Like 1

Have always loved the wise sports kit except the rear bar
Seen one with the rear bar modified with the aprons tapered down to the wheel arch and a diffuser fitted and it looked heaps better

On 10/4/2018 at 4:20 PM, niZmO_Man said:

Do you even Gran Turismo bro?
1317113098767023976.jpg

hqdefault.jpg

 

Or can make something similar
http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/09/theres-wide-and-then-theres-this/

rsmeeting2018_dalle_carbonare_129-1200x8

rsmeeting2018_dalle_carbonare_133-1200x8

 

 

?

I reckon this sort of bodykit would suit R32's more because of their default boxier design. R33's are curvy so turning them into a boxy design looks a little odd but this would suit GT3 style racing but I must admit...it is growing on me. 

 

6 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

Yep agree. Which is why it's hard to go past the factory GT-R style kit.

Exact-a-mondo!

Seriously, for a R33 GTR I would only do the following visual mods:

- Good JDM rims with good offset or the like 

- Change stock side and front orange dated indicator housing to Nismo N1 clear ones (smoked ones look hideous in my opinion)

- Get some nice sideskirts (I like the Nismo N1 ones most) or leave stock is fine too

- Replace side GT and front/rear GTR badges if damaged or stolen 

- Remove all instance of RICE like crazy camber, huge GT wings and stickers except for SAU ?

- Add Nismo N1 bonnet lip

- Add Nismo N1 rese carbon fibre double wing

- Add front canards and rear diffuser optional 

- Add tint to windows optional 

AND that’s it for. She’s tough as is just keep her clean and focus on performance mods if any and enjoy!

Anything else I missed?

Edited by Robocop2310
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.
    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
×
×
  • Create New...