Jump to content
SAU Community

Big Brake Kits And Wheels

N1GTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
Car Model: R32GTST

Year: 1990

Rim size: 17 X 8

Rim name/type: Speedy Hollow Type R

Rim offset: +35

Rim internal diameter: 410 mm

Front Brake brand: R32GTST M Spec

Caliper size: 4 spot

Disc size: 340 mm x 32 mm DBA 5000 Series

Pads: Hawk

Any problems with pad wear or coverage with this setup? Any pics? DBA have told me that the reason my DBA4000s cracked is beacuse i am running the GTSt caliper (intended for a 280mm rotor) on a 324mm rotor so the pad depth on the rotor causes thermal issues within the rotor. Result is a crack. Personally i think its their get out of jail argument...it has merit on paper but there is no way i think thats the contributer to why their rotors crack with track work

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted (edited)

Car Model: R32 Gtr

Year: 1990

Rim size: 17x9

Rim name/type: Volk gtu, Desmond somethings, enkei po1's

Rim offset: +22

Face type:

Brake brand: Brembo F50

Caliper size: Big 4 spot

Disc size:

Rim internal diameter:

Pads: Mu secret level max 900's (overkill.. i know..)

will fill out rest when i get home

Edited by Angus Smart
wrxkilla Mentor

wrxkilla

Posted
Posted

Car Model: R32 GT-R

Year: 1994

Rim size:18x10

Rim name: Work Meister S2R

Rim offset : +15

Face type: wtf?

Brake brand: Alcon 4 pot

Caliper size: ?

Disc size: 355mm

Will measure innerdiameter of rim and post up.

cheers

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Car Model: R33 GTS-T

Year: 1993

Rim size: 17x8j

Rim name/type: NISMO LMGT-2

Rim offset: +38

Face type: -

Brake brand: Ap Racing

Caliper size: 4-pot

Disc size: 332 (endless)

Pad: Endless

Rim internal diameter: -

Edited by [Michael]
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Any problems with pad wear or coverage with this setup? Any pics? DBA have told me that the reason my DBA4000s cracked is beacuse i am running the GTSt caliper (intended for a 280mm rotor) on a 324mm rotor so the pad depth on the rotor causes thermal issues within the rotor. Result is a crack. Personally i think its their get out of jail argument...it has merit on paper but there is no way i think thats the contributer to why their rotors crack with track work

Note 32 mm thick x 340 mm DBA 5000 series rotors, ie, not a Skyline rotor. The R32GTST M Spec calliper is the same as an R32GTR calliper, except the GTR legs are 8 mm longer ie; the pads are the same. So a more valid comparison is 296 mm versus 324 mm in your case. That's 14 mm radius, hardly a big deal as long as you stick to appropriate heat up and cool down procedures. Track days can be a bitch for that, the inexperienced people just don't understand why I complain when they try and make me sit there stationery on pit entry. For additional capacity, the 5000 series are the go and 32 mm is available in 324 mm.

Cheers

Gary

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
Note 32 mm thick x 340 mm DBA 5000 series rotors, ie, not a Skyline rotor. The R32GTST M Spec calliper is the same as an R32GTR calliper, except the GTR legs are 8 mm longer ie; the pads are the same. So a more valid comparison is 296 mm versus 324 mm in your case. That's 14 mm radius, hardly a big deal as long as you stick to appropriate heat up and cool down procedures. Track days can be a bitch for that, the inexperienced people just don't understand why I complain when they try and make me sit there stationery on pit entry. For additional capacity, the 5000 series are the go and 32 mm is available in 324 mm.

Cheers

Gary

I take it you are running a machine down 343mm rotor (HSV?) What hat do you use on the 5000 rotor ?

I used this setup for years and never a worry. From some time 2002 to 2006, the rotors i took off where still not undersized, but thought i would change them to new DBA 4000 just to make sure that i didnt have any problems. The new DBA 4000 are RUBBISH compared to what i purchased in 2002. So certainly encourage ppl to go to 5000 as they dont seem to have the same problems...lol they also dont have the same slot design :)

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
Fixed :)

Car Model:

Year:

Rim size:

Rim name/type:

Rim offset:

Face type:

Brake brand:

Caliper size:

Disc size:

Rim internal diameter:

OK i can only go on what i ve tested myself.

Car Model: Any

Year: ANY

Rim size: 17 x 9.5

Rim name/type: URAS NS-01 (copys include doritek etc)

Rim offset: +15

Face type: normal

Brake brand: ALCON

Caliper size: 6 pot

Disc size: 355mm

Rim internal diameter: fk nose :)

Car Model: Any

Year: ANY

Rim size: 17 x 9.5

Rim name/type: URAS NS-01 (copys include doritek etc)

Rim offset: +15

Face type: normal

Brake brand: GREDDY

Caliper size: 6 pot

Disc size: 355mm

Rim internal diameter: fk nose ;)

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
OK i can only go on what i ve tested myself.

Car Model: Any

Year: ANY

Rim size: 17 x 9.5

Rim name/type: URAS NS-01 (copys include doritek etc)

Rim offset: +15

Face type: normal

Brake brand: ALCON

Caliper size: 6 pot

Disc size: 355mm

Rim internal diameter: fk nose :D

Car Model: Any

Year: ANY

Rim size: 17 x 9.5

Rim name/type: URAS NS-01 (copys include doritek etc)

Rim offset: +15

Face type: normal

Brake brand: GREDDY

Caliper size: 6 pot

Disc size: 355mm

Rim internal diameter: fk nose :(

You can stuff a 355 rotor inside a 17" rim. Nice work.

Any chance of a photo and or the rim internal diameter?

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I take it you are running a machine down 343mm rotor (HSV?) What hat do you use on the 5000 rotor ?

Got it in one on the rotors, I am trying something new this year in hats, I'll post it up once I have tested it out sufficiently.

I used this setup for years and never a worry. From some time 2002 to 2006, the rotors i took off where still not undersized, but thought i would change them to new DBA 4000 just to make sure that i didnt have any problems. The new DBA 4000 are RUBBISH compared to what i purchased in 2002.

That's not unusual, old rotors have all the stresses heat cycled out of them. For the 1993 and 1994 12 Hour races we drove around the streets for a few weeks, cycling the rotors for that same reason. We had not one sign of the rotor cracking problems we had in 1992. Same rotor manufacturer, same pads.

So certainly encourage ppl to go to 5000 as they dont seem to have the same problems...lol they also dont have the same slot design :banana:

I agree, for decent track work, the 5000 series are the go.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • MBS206
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You miss spelled bearings...
    • Kinkstaah
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Just putting it out there, that's a decent list. You would be better off *not* doing *any* of that and buying someone else's modded car. Like mine. Or anybody else's. Yes it's lotto dependent and all this and that but that 70K (remember, double your guesses) could go elsewhere. Keep it stock, save your money, go lowball @Dose Pipe Sutututu :p
    • GTSBoy
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does not mean what you think it means. The continual rising coefficient is the coefficient of friction that continues to rise with increasing temperature. Not "rising during a single stop", except inasmuch as the brakes should get hotter during a single stop. The RR would not be the best choice for a streeter. Yeah....no it's not. JAX would rummage around in the "shit pads we use for all shitboxen that come in here" and install those.
    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      @Kinkstaah I've got my list.. but most of them is to do if I ever win the lotto
×
×
  • Create New...