Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Those APs that Stillen use are the CP7040 calipers which are not as good as the CP5555, and dont use AP rotors, but there own branded rotors. (which are probably still good things) At the money they are still decent value given current exhange rate

I stay stick with it Chris, you may find that the balance isnt too bad and easily able to be improved with a bias valve. I dare say all the parts you are pulling together as a kit will mean that it will be rather easy next round if you want to try again with a different caliper. WHen you have the rotors etc all running drop me a line interested to hear how it works for you....IF you are not happy I have a few ideas of other calipers that are cheaply available that may work well

So Roy,

You think that AP kit is on the money ?

I'm up for pads and rotors and probably a caliper rebuild anway (standard sumi's) so it's probably worth it.

  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dont forget you may have to pay GST through customs etc. Do your own homework and ring around and get some prices of the pad compund you like to suit the caliper and see if its acceptable. ditto replacement rotors. They are no doubt no bad thing...but its still going ot be over 3k so be sure they are what you want, need and happy to be paying the cost of pads and rotors (though rotors will last a long time if you are using the right pads)

Dont forget you may have to pay GST through customs etc. Do your own homework and ring around and get some prices of the pad compund you like to suit the caliper and see if its acceptable. ditto replacement rotors. They are no doubt no bad thing...but its still going ot be over 3k so be sure they are what you want, need and happy to be paying the cost of pads and rotors (though rotors will last a long time if you are using the right pads)

The way I look at it is that I don't think im going to get better brakes, or even similar for anywhere near the same money.

Those APs that Stillen use are the CP7040 calipers which are not as good as the CP5555, and dont use AP rotors, but there own branded rotors. (which are probably still good things) At the money they are still decent value given current exhange rate

I stay stick with it Chris, you may find that the balance isnt too bad and easily able to be improved with a bias valve. I dare say all the parts you are pulling together as a kit will mean that it will be rather easy next round if you want to try again with a different caliper. WHen you have the rotors etc all running drop me a line interested to hear how it works for you....IF you are not happy I have a few ideas of other calipers that are cheaply available that may work well

Roy, Stillen told me the only thing not AP was the bracket. If they're not AP it might throw up some availability issues. What's the difference between 7040s and 5555s?

Neesan, Stillen offered to include a different pad compound if I wanted.

Chris, wasn't suggesting you stop with the Evos sorry if it came over that way I'm really keen to see how it turns out and well done for sticking with it. Have a set of F40s I want to use with 355mm Falcon discs or the late Camaro, talking to Bosnjak in Sydney about price.

Edited by Scooby

all good Scooby, im really keen to see how it works too - but it cant be far now, and no real point swapping anything over til the rears are finished

i'll get a price on the alloy hat for the rears for everyone also, though it seems that the added cooling on the rear might make any rear bias issues worse, but might lend to a cheaper pad choice

  • 1 month later...

got the full kit back, just need to finish coating the rear suspension arms and get new bushes then i'll fit it up for the line measurements and post pics.

then strip them down for coating while the lines are being made

  • 2 weeks later...

they seem fine so far, waiting to get the rear cradle back from the suspension mob, getting all new bushes and tie rod ends pressed in after i coated it. cant test fit until that all comes back as they have every bit except the backing plate for the rear handbrake

I have done this setup on my r32 GTR..A very effective mod. Im running 324mm r34 gtr rotors up front and 320mm 350z rotors on the rear. Running evo7 calipers with Mintex race pads. Huge Huge improvement to the braking and looks mean!.

Im using CNC machined air-craft alloy brackets front and rear. It took me and my toolmaker a while to figure out how to mount the rear calipers strong and safely. I have the CNC drawings or I can get the brackets made up for you.

The front hubs need a slight trim where the factory brake line bolts to. and you will need to run new lines front and rear..I ran braided lines.

The rear hubs are tricky , need to machine a few mm off the inside hub. hard to explain ..but very trick on how they bolt up.

I took photos when i installed the calipers.. but they are on my desktop,ehich has packed a sad...should have it up and running in a few days..

Ask any questions you like as I know this was a long process for me so I dont mind helping out fellow gtr owners. :D

am interested in geting some adaptors aslo

  • 2 weeks later...

still dont have a $ value yet, braided lines have been made up and installed and the system bled and no issues.

used some spare crap pads for the test fit, gotta get some nice medium compound pads and new custom pins for the rear calipers due to the 4mm spacer between the halves of the calipers (installed to allow for 32mm rear disk)

then its just testing the feel, already seems alot harder/touchy in the pedal from just the bleeding process. Car has semi slicks now so should be a bit easier to really test out the feel once the roads dry up

still dont have a $ value yet, braided lines have been made up and installed and the system bled and no issues.

used some spare crap pads for the test fit, gotta get some nice medium compound pads and new custom pins for the rear calipers due to the 4mm spacer between the halves of the calipers (installed to allow for 32mm rear disk)

then its just testing the feel, already seems alot harder/touchy in the pedal from just the bleeding process. Car has semi slicks now so should be a bit easier to really test out the feel once the roads dry up

Could you share the adapter mount measurements pleeeeeeeeeeeeease?

Cheers

Justin

  • 2 months later...

Cars still in too many pieces to tell lol - still customising the pins for the pads in the rear due to the spacers

there is talk with my guy about getting alloy adapters made for the fronts only, as these will fit 32,33 and s15 . possibly even the 34's so wont be giving out the measurements until he makes a decision

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
×
×
  • Create New...