Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, This has been happening for a while now... Everytime when i flat foot past 5,6,7rpm my car feels funny like its struggleing or something? ive changed my spark plugs but im not sure wot its gapped to. The current mods i got so far is Pod,Full 3'inch turbo back with high flow cat exhaust system.. and a HKS SSQV.. I rememba when my car was stock and when i flat foot the car would full funny, like its choking or something i duno... has this occured to anyone b4?

Thanks, Geraus.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203974-is-this-normal-when-i-rev-to-7/
Share on other sites

miss firing is most probally the answer.

check sparkies first if tats not the problem then coilpacks...

happen to me tooo...

get ngk iriway7 or iriway8(or equivalant). this sparkies are made for japanese cars like this. do go trying out stupid sparkies like iridium. cause me a headache....

Hey thanks so much guys :D yeh i think its a miss-fire, Due to the plugs.. but the thing is ive changed... I'l try and regap.. them.. They are irdium ones .... Sorry whats PFC? im confused there :D ? oh and yeh its a 33...

Edited by geraus

plz don regap ur spark plugs(cheap way to do it)... its an ancient tool tat ppl use 10 or more years ago... who ever ask u to regap doesnt really know wat they are talking about.

i got lectured by a mechanic saying tat everyone is asking him to regap the spark plugs... he say he rather not do my business when u got a proper item design to eliminate the problem.....

getting a plug is not expensive.... $35 each for ngk iriway7 or 8

Would this be the same solution for the R32 GTS-t with turboback exhaust, aftermarket cat, fmic, pod, stock everything else? I think mine has those iridiums as well, if i go by what the owner said, which so far was all true.

plz don regap ur spark plugs(cheap way to do it)... its an ancient tool tat ppl use 10 or more years ago... who ever ask u to regap doesnt really know wat they are talking about.

i got lectured by a mechanic saying tat everyone is asking him to regap the spark plugs... he say he rather not do my business when u got a proper item design to eliminate the problem.....

getting a plug is not expensive.... $35 each for ngk iriway7 or 8

you have no idea what your talking about.

Regapping plugs is neither dodgy or "an ancient tool"

Its a well known fact that many skylines with mods will not run the stock 1.1 plug gap. buying expensive iridums at $35 each will not solve any problems either. Just get some BCPR6E plugs and check the gap is 0.8mm

all plugs should be checked with feeler gauges to see if they are what they are rated at... just cause it says 0.8 or 1.1mm on the box doesnt mean it is;)

Hey, i dont get it? so is it ok to regap or not? because i dont wana BREAK my motor? LOL? ... And what is the correct mm to gap to? 0.8? ot 1.1?

oh and sorry what brand is "BCPR6E " im guessing its NGK? so when i go buy some plugs all i need to give them is that code right.

Thanks so much guys!

Geraus.

Edited by geraus
Hey thanks so much guys :D yeh i think its a miss-fire, Due to the plugs.. but the thing is ive changed... I'l try and regap.. them.. They are irdium ones .... Sorry whats PFC? im confused there :D ? oh and yeh its a 33...

Apexi power FC is what PFC stands for a ECU

Hey, i dont get it? so is it ok to regap or not? because i dont wana BREAK my motor? LOL? ... And what is the correct mm to gap to? 0.8? ot 1.1?

oh and sorry what brand is "BCPR6E " im guessing its NGK? so when i go buy some plugs all i need to give them is that code right.

Thanks so much guys!

Geraus.

Its fine to regap, just make sure you do it properly.

Yep just give them the code for the spart plug and they can give you the right ones. So as an eg: I use NGK 'BCPR6ES' which are factory gapped to 0.8mm.

Edited by abu

This thread my help you out a bit with understanding spark plugs, gaps and model numbers: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...gs-t104405.html

Also recommends what's good to use for your motor etc

Edited by abu

don't gap iridium plugs.

the tip is very fragile.

Just go to supacheap and buy 6 copper plugs with the code above, with an 0.8mm gap. (they cost about $4.50 each)

while you are there, ask for a feeler tool to gap sparkplugs.

then as said above, check them.

don't gap iridium plugs.

the tip is very fragile.

Just go to supacheap and buy 6 copper plugs with the code above, with an 0.8mm gap. (they cost about $4.50 each)

while you are there, ask for a feeler tool to gap sparkplugs.

then as said above, check them.

lol i use a small flat head screwdriver which tip is 0.8mm.... since im always gapping plugs for other ppl i use this.. but yeah feeler guages shoudl always ben used to CHECK the gap of your new plugs... 9 times out of 10 the gap is correct but every now and then there is a misgap

Sorry whats PFC? im confused there ;) ? oh and yeh its a 33...

apexi power FC ecu, also get your timing checked and if the timing belt hasn't been replaced get that done also ;). another thing that may help is getting your car put on a dyno for a power run so you can check the air/fuel ratio , just remember your r33 (s2 im guessing) is 10years old now , small things like the fuel pump may be getting tired :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
    • I'll send you a message, but until I know what is OK (and anything that isn't) its kind of hard to work out a fair price. BTW I'm just helping out here, ultimately it is Mel's call what she accepts but I know it will go sooner or later.
×
×
  • Create New...