Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I have been thinking about a suspension upgrade for ages but not sure what to go for.I know there are lots of threads, and I have read most of them.I wanted to get some feedback before I make a choice....

The standard set up.. to my mind... is good and firm.. but has really bad dampening...I feel every tiny bump.I want to retain the firmness..but get more dampening..I dont want the car to be much lower..maybe just a tad.. (as it has a dolphin body kit) and I have heard some coil over systems sit the car low.

Will good coilovers give me the firmness with good dampening??...Would a set of really good shocks do the trick if I dont want the car lower?

I would like to get the thoughts of other S2 owners that have aftermarket set ups...and their opinions on what to go for.

cheers.

Scott.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203990-the-perfect-suspension-for-s2/
Share on other sites

thats what I use too, and I am very happy with the price and performance.

well i have tein in my series 2 and i must say it isn`t a bad ride, firm but not bone jaring.

You have to keep in mind that the springs do all the work and the shocks just dampen the springs so if you want to do it right you have to upgrade the lot, koni are mainly oil shocks and bilstein are gas, depends what you want to do.

Circuit work go koni,dirt work go bilstein as they dont froth the oil and fade.

post-45905-1201866215_thumb.jpg

Coil overs are not out of the question ...but there was a chap recently that had coilovers with a dolphin kit that had a problems with the car being too low. Low cars look great but are a pain (with a low bodykit) so I dont want to lower mine very much..

I would like to know if puting a slightly softer spring would help...the standard springs are so hard that it feels like the shocks dont get a chance to do anything!!...weird thing is I seem to be the only S2 owner that thinks the standard setup is too hard..I would like to try a softer spring to see if it helps...I have seen after market springs with a rate of :

Front: 3.4 and rear 3.2. I would be intersted to know if anyone has any info or thoughts on this (spring rates)...what I am after is the euro type of suspension set up...plush but not boat like....maybe its not possible....I have been in a couple of standard commodors lately and I like the complinat ride..getting back into the S2 is like getting into a go cart after the commador...sure it feels nice and firm and has less body roll..but somewhere inbetween would be nice.

mate if you think the stock setup is too hard, it is either stuffed (shocks seized), or you like a quite light ride. If its the latter none of the jap kits or sydneykids stuff will impress you.

Get standard shock replacements from pedders or similar with the standard springs.

Coil overs are not out of the question ...but there was a chap recently that had coilovers with a dolphin kit that had a problems with the car being too low. Low cars look great but are a pain (with a low bodykit) so I dont want to lower mine very much..

I would like to know if puting a slightly softer spring would help...the standard springs are so hard that it feels like the shocks dont get a chance to do anything!!...weird thing is I seem to be the only S2 owner that thinks the standard setup is too hard..I would like to try a softer spring to see if it helps...I have seen after market springs with a rate of :

Front: 3.4 and rear 3.2. I would be intersted to know if anyone has any info or thoughts on this (spring rates)...what I am after is the euro type of suspension set up...plush but not boat like....maybe its not possible....I have been in a couple of standard commodors lately and I like the complinat ride..getting back into the S2 is like getting into a go cart after the commador...sure it feels nice and firm and has less body roll..but somewhere inbetween would be nice.

The standard springs are around 3.0 kg/mm.

I'm with Duncan, you won't find anything aftermarket more "limousine" than the standard springs and shocks. So the first thing I would do is to check that your car actually has the standard springs and shocks in it. Then make sure the shocks are working as they should. You may find the shocks are stuffed (particularly the fronts) and allowing them to contact the standard bump stops, which have an effective spring rate over 20 kg/mm.

Keep in mind that Japanese cars, as a whole, have a tendency for being too short in their suspension travel forour local conditions. Although a Stagea is a waggon, it still is 4wd and/or turbo charged, so the Nissan design brief would have been more "sporty" than "limo".

Cheers

Gary

  • 2 weeks later...

Teins in my s2.

Height & Dampner adjustable.

Nice rock/firm ride with dampner set to 12 all round (go's to 16), also notice big handling improvement

going through corners when setting dampner up higher.

Set dampner to 0, soft but still sporty/hard ride, not quite as bone jarring, although the rear gets a little squirmy.

Not sure if i've got uprated sway bars or the stock ones, pretty sure stock, but i've got virtually no body roll.

Riding on the standard 16's.

side note: I noticed adding front sway bar to my old r31 made no real difference, but putting the rear one one, BIG difference to handleing.

side note: I noticed adding front sway bar to my old r31 made no real difference, but putting the rear one one, BIG difference to handleing.

That's because the rear bar upgrade is substantial on R31's. Not all Skylines/Stagea models are the same, 4wd Stageas, for example, benefit from a front bar upgrade, but it's the rear bar upgrade that you really notice. On R33GTST's it's the reverse, the front bar upgrade is the big improver.

Cheers

Gary

  • 1 year later...

Gents,

Quick question about Whiteline; I ordered the front and rear sways for my S1 via Whiteline's Webstore, got a order confirmation email but have herd nothing from them in three weeks. I've email the Sales department a couple of times but no answer. Is there some sort of trick to getting these ordered?

Cheers!

Mike

Gents,

Quick question about Whiteline; I ordered the front and rear sways for my S1 via Whiteline's Webstore, got a order confirmation email but have herd nothing from them in three weeks. I've email the Sales department a couple of times but no answer. Is there some sort of trick to getting these ordered?

Cheers!

Mike

Its hard to keep track of Whiteline. They seem to have had many changes lately. A tip though - unless you have specifically ordered 24mm front sway bars you will get exactly what you have on your car now. You need to order using all of those words (not just a code) or else you will just get another 22mm bar like you already have:

24mm non adjustable front bar for a 1997 Nissan Stagea WGNC34 RS4T auto. (formerly BNF27X or XX)

The one I got from my local NZ Whiteline supplier came from Superior Suspension Ltd and was branded Selby. Use google to track them down and then find out who your nearest agent is (at the time I bought they would not sell direct). Good luck!

BTW after going to all this trouble to import the right bar it was destroyed a little while ago when I wrote off my car. I am buying another S1 and have the original bar out of the old car and plan to go around a few spring makers and say "can you replicate this for me in 24mm bar?"

Does anybody know of any SK Bilstein shocks with circlips and extra grooves to suit S2 Stagea that need a home. I fitted Whiteline sway bars front and back whilst car was of the road and noticed rear left shock was leaking. We allready have HKS springs fitted aswell, so I don't want standard shocks!

I have got Tein superwagons on my s1. I phoned up Tein and they said that if the adjusters are wound all the way in clockwise that is the hardest setting. That is position 0. There are then about 26 clicks out anticlockwise, however only the first 16 do anything ( ie from 0 to 16 ), that is then the softest setting. I have got mine on 6 clicks out from fully wound in clockwise and it feels pretty good. Next on the list is for the whiteline antiroll bars, back first then front. Just finding it a bit hard to get hold of the right ones in the UK.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi again all, I’ve tried doing some searching on the topic but couldn’t find the answer I’m looking for.   I deleted my clutch booster because it had an air leak and was squealing like a hog, and now my clutch has very poor pedal feel and the friction zone is way too small, so I believe I need a bigger diameter clutch master cylinder to compensate for not using the booster. I found a Wilwood option that’s 3/4” for a good price and will fit my 3AN clutch line, but all the firewall adapters I see online such as RB factory or Chase Bays are listed as RWD only (GTST/GTS). Link below. https://rbfactory.shop/products/nissan-to-wilwood-girling-clutch-master-cylinder-adapter My question is if these adapters will also fit a GTR, and if anyone has experience using a 3/4” CMC without the booster, my clutch is a Nismo coppermix twin plate.   Thanks, always appreciate the advice!
    • Catching up on a post, I've replaced the external shark fin with a small 4g antenna (no further drilling, just a 1mm embiggening of the existing hole, and run that to where the dual battery models have the battery in the left rear guard.  No idea what the factory antenna did, but removing it had no impact on anything I use, according to the US manual the GPS antenna is in the dash and it still works fine Also ended up stealing battery power from one of the amps and ACC power from a unit nearby to add an ACC relay to power it. The mounted the booster, wifi, power socket and antenna splitter in the rear left guard out of the way, all out of site with the boot trims in
    • What drama? The only drama you're going to have is the near constant work to maintain all those sphericals. I only have sphericals in my front caster rods and front upper CAs (because both of these are near compulsory in an R32). I have had the front arms out of my car 34 times already this month, and if the new replacements arrive today, I will have them out and apart again tomorrow. Chasing clicking and clunking that comes from sphericals being a.....poor choice for a road car. Moisture and dirt are not their friends. I have been contemplating a change to my rear subframe that would require me to use sphericals in my lower CAs. And.....I don't want to have them that close to the road.
    • Did you need anything else you've already done? If you had it before... and liked the changes after, then supposedly it'd be more of the same. The idea about most suspension arms is to tune geometry that the OEM arms max out at/can't handle because they weren't designed to have the car setup in such a way that 'looks good'.
    • I have replaced everything on my r34 including suspension to Miester R, all rear subframe bushes to poly, all arms to metal adjustable and same in front.   only thing I haven't touched is the front lower control arm. Should I? what improvement can i expect ? I mean the one on the link below?   Car drives perfectly, it is just me thinking everything is either puly bush or hard bearing type so should also do lower control arm front but do I really need it ? https://www.japspeed.co.uk/product/suspension/adjustable-arms/nissan-200sx-s13-s14-s15-skyline-r32-r33-r34-adjustable-suspension-front-lower-control-arms/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAo5u6BhDJARIsAAVoDWs5V_PauQPf0kx3zFCaA4tOC9Q7JSIsfJWma_jAPN2f1sJA686djOwaAidgEALw_wcB
×
×
  • Create New...