Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

It has been posted quite a lot around the traps that the SR20DET is alot more responsive in the lower/mid rev range than the RB20DET (which is said to feel gutless off boost)... fair enough... but when i look at the tech specs, the torque figures are only 9Nm different and the the RB20 has max torque 800 rpm lower than the SR20.

i.e.

SR20DET 274Nm @ 4000 rpm

RB20DET 265Nm @ 3200 rpm

Wouldnt this suggest that (in stock form at least) the RB20 is better for daily driving as peak torque is earlier??

Call me crazy if you want, and there might be things i've overlooked or haven't taken into consideration or have just got plain wrong, but surely so many people haven't noticed this before??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204028-torque-of-sr20-vs-rb20confusion/
Share on other sites

It has been posted quite a lot around the traps that the SR20DET is alot more responsive in the lower/mid rev range than the RB20DET (which is said to feel gutless off boost)... fair enough... but when i look at the tech specs, the torque figures are only 9Nm different and the the RB20 has max torque 800 rpm lower than the SR20.

The consensus of most long time owners (myself included) of SR20DET's is that the engines biggest point is its monster mid-range torque between 3500 and 7000rpm, under that, its a mild mannered grandma and after that its a wheezy grandpa :D

Wouldnt this suggest that (in stock form at least) the RB20 is better for daily driving as peak torque is earlier??

I found it fairly easy to live with a mildly tuned up SR20DET for over 7 years and no real complaints for that purpose around town as it functions perfectly well in a light car of 1150kg and running between 2000-4000rpm.

I don't have a lot of experience with the RB20's, but like most 6's they're usually much happier on highways where they can just roll around on low rpm at legal speeds with much less effort than a 4cylinder. Things like the weight of the car, mostly your R32's (while they're certainly not heavy, but still around 200kg more than a Silvia of the same era from memory) isn't that much of a factor in your fuel consumption as it is in stop-start traffic.

Having owned both...i find that its partly due to the power delivery characteristics of the engine too...the RB is so smooth and creamy and pretty linear in stockish form whereas the SR feels rough as sh!t and alot more urgent...the SR seemed happer from 2500-5500rpm and the rb seemed happier from 4000-7500rpm...the characteristics of the SR makes it nicer to drive on the road...trackwise i prefer the RB...

SR has a more sudden surge of power. As said, the RB is much smoother. I think a lot of people mistake the feeling of torque in the SR's with how light the Silvia's are. Try putting the SR into a Skyline. It makes a world of difference.

Having owned both...i find that its partly due to the power delivery characteristics of the engine too...the RB is so smooth and creamy and pretty linear in stockish form whereas the SR feels rough as sh!t and alot more urgent...the SR seemed happer from 2500-5500rpm and the rb seemed happier from 4000-7500rpm...the characteristics of the SR makes it nicer to drive on the road...trackwise i prefer the RB...

most obvious of the above is what a friend and I did back a few years ago.

he had just modified his S15 (had about 190rwkw) and my R32 gtst was with the usual mods making 150rwkw or something.

we had a one way street at the back of our work where the left side is a wall and the right side if the building we work in.

long story short, we went in each car one at a time.

roll start, plant foot in 1st and second etc.

the S15 gets to about 3000rpm, spins wheels to about 5000 rpm, then traction, then shift at 6500rpm.

in the skyline, gets to about 4000rpm, spins wheels till I shift at 7000rpm.

skyilne was definitely slower less power etc, but the power delivery was very different between the 2.

the rb just wanted to keep climbing.

the SR wanted to be shifted to next gear.

The specs on paper don't make much sense when you've driven both.

you think that they have to be wrong.

i think a lot of it has to do with the feel of the 2 engines, the 4cyl engines tend to feel more responsive (for obvious reasons), this gives the feel of whats sometimes mixed up with torque. ive driven a few CA's and SR's, and with less power, more power, or bigger turbo, stock turbo, they always tend to feel more "torquey" than my RB20 until u realise the revs arnt really climbing that quickly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?
    • It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!
    • As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2.   Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...
    • Rotisserie is fully assembled apart from centre connector which obviously isn't required until the car is on it. It packs away fairly neatly and doesn't take up too much room. (Now that I actually have some room after my clean up!) Overall very happy with the quality of it.  Assembly was a piece of piss.  The only thing I didn't like was that the pins that lock the rotation lock wheels in place were a bit of a dick in a bucket scenario. It allowed the arms to rotate a significant amount even when locked in place.  To fix that i measured up the hole and went and grabbed a couple of 18mm fully threaded bolts and a thread tap to suit. I ran the tap through top and bottom so it was threaded both ends.  Then just threaded the bolt through both sides.  It has made a massive difference which hopefully you can tell in the before and after video how much difference it made. 20250207_161431.mp4   20250207_161431.mp4 Hopefully back working on the car over the next few weeks.   20250207_162801.mp4
    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
×
×
  • Create New...