Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys having a problem with my car if anyone knows whats going on and can tell me your thoughts that would be great...

Ill start off by saying i just put in a boost gauge and boost controller (bleed valve) I put new heavy duty clamps on my intercooler yesturday so that I can boost my 32 without the intercooler pipe falling off all the time.. stock 7 psi i boosted it to 9psi when i got my new clutch fitted about a week ago but i wasnt thrashing it at all because the pipe fell off twice so i was taking it easy till i put in the new clamps.. so got the new clamps on so i increased the boost by 2 more PSI which shouldve made it 11 PSI but when i was running it, it was only showing 9 still.. so turned boost down to 7 and went up 4 PSI to make it 11 but now the boost gauge is showing 7 PSI... anyone know whats going on here?

Any help would be good...

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204150-boost-not-showing/
Share on other sites

if it feels like its boosting right, i'd be looking at the boost controller accuracy, and the lines going to it.

if the car feels like its not making the higher boost, then check your boost controller. the turbotech type can get stuck. the spring gets caught on the threads inside, and the ball doesnt move freely. open it up and put it back together.

i just put it back to stock then i clicked it 4 times and it worked and it was fine then i clicked it 1 more because i wanted it at 12PSI and now its stalling everytime its not in gear so i put it down 1 like it was before but still stalling alot might be a boost leak...

nah the BOV is blocked..

i just clicked the boost back to stock 7 but its still showing it as running 9-10 wtf? dunno whats going on here.. car stalls so much everytime im slowing down to like take a corner or something i have to put the h/brake up if ive got someone in front of me and rev it a bit so it doesnt stall.. driving me nuts coz i cant drive properly!

Anyone have an idea?

Faulty boost gauge? Get a friend who has a working one and test it out.

The car is stalling? you must have over boosted it the first time and now you have a cooler pipe leak. Recheck all the clamps and hoses, and look where the boost controler is, kinda sounds to me like one of the houses must have a hole in there, happened to me a few times

get a friend to check it out and c what happens, then again you can always go to a mechanic

hmmm. i got a bosch 040 fuel pump in there with full tank of bp ultimate.. really hard to drive now.

when i floor it in first to 5000rpm i switch to 2nd and then floor it but it doesnt feel like its really pulling at all, feels like the boost goes away... the BOV is blocked by this tube thing my mate put on, i dont think its that though, because it was fine before i put in the boost controller and gauge, heavy duty clamps and boosted it. getting it checked from my mate tomorrow, also gotta put in a new clutch master cylinder.. hopefully it gets fixed tomorrow

It should be running 10psi stock as the R32 turbos have a 10psi actuator on them so they cannot run any less boost unless you have a huge leak or something similar.

Maybe your bleeder isn't set correctly and is leaking boost or even the BOV if its not blocked correctly it will leak boost pressure, as they are designed to do.

Hook up the wastegate lines as normal and make sure you have blocked the BOV off properly then try it again.

Where did you run the line for the boost gauge from?

Worse comes to worse I will have a look for you, your just down the road.

Let me know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Details: Turbo Borg Warner EFR 9180 with 1.05 rear housing Upgraded TurboSmart integrated BOV Sanded and powdercoated compressor cover in gloss black Elbow welded with wiggins clamp Speed Sensor(Not included) (Can include oil drain(heat wrapped + titanium intake pipe with almost new filter for a tad extra). Manifold: 6 Boost RB26/30 twin scroll manifold  e-MAP ports drilled into both scrolls(I was using the TAARKS EMAP KIT) Turbo is in excellent condition. Always used Penrite 15w50 Racing oil(Changed less then 2000ks). Also using the Turbosmart OP regulator and filter. Downpipe: 4inch Stainless steel with VBand inlet and outlet clamps(included) Heat wrapped Dual ports for Dyno/Wideband usage Will throw in free 2.5 inch intercooler pipe(2.5inch From turbo outlet to 3.5 inch intercooler) - Powder coated black. Turbo made 563rwkw on mainline hub dyno at around 24-25psi boost - Pump fuel. Will def make over 600kw on e85. Didn't bother as my e-MAP was through the roof with my setup sitting past the choke line. I have a cnc ported and fully built head on my 3.2. Turbine speed saw max of around 109k rpm. I'm running this on my R32 GTR, with AC, and the original power steering pump. The manifold clears the AC lines, ABS, and everything else. Although I had new AC lines because I just wanted new ones and I heat wrapped them as well. This will make more power on a slightly lower capacity motor with a higher PR. And I have since upgraded to a G45-1500. Have pics and videos if need be.  Absolutely nothing wrong with setup. Turbo is in perfect condition. No shaft play or oil leaks at all. All the work was professionally done. The transient response of this is fkn amazing. I cannot rave more about this turbo. If I wasn't chasing 4 figures, I would have kept it. $5000 NZ. Located: Auckland, New Zealand.    
    • I particularly like the look of the John Player Special team. (Thumbnail isn't different but hit play for the clip)  
    • Such a cool collection of cars back then.  
    • Mystery solved, thanks bro Bit of a strange mix, but i dont mind it, still looks good. 
    • nah no problems with bearings or hubs.  just the water pump leak and my AC death
×
×
  • Create New...