R32 Wheel Allignment Suggestions

[gibbau]

howdy,

I'm almost finished building my R32 for drifting and I have most of my suspension components in and its going to need an allignment soon. Could anyone help me out with a list of settings (camber, castor etc.) and/or recommend a shop in brisbane to set it up for me (thinking of accurate suspension, only ever heard good things from there).

It is a track only car, no road driving at all.

Here is a run-down of my suspension components:

- Coilovers all round

- rear adjustable camber arms

- adjustable castor rods

- adjustable tie rod ends

- front R32 Gtr swaybar (yet to be fitted)

- rear adjustable swaybar (yet to be bought, suggestions? recommendations?)

- rear pineapples

- hicas lock bar

I know its pretty basic, but it will be plenty for now.

I'm also aware that different set-ups suit different drivers, but I need somewhere to start and then make adjustments from there to suit my driving style.

Any help is appreciated

Thanks

Zac

[STATUS]

Here are the settings i found most suited to the R32 i messed around in.

FRONT:

Toe 5-7mm total toe out

Castor 6.5-7degrees MAX

camber 2.75-3.00 degrees neg (wet drop to 2.5)

R32 runs out of lock way to quick so get some uras spacers ($20ish)or some sort of extra lock tie rods (URAS, IKEYA, TEIN, KAZAMA etc)

REAR:

Toe 3mm total toe in (if beginner then start with 0mm) dynamically these things start to toe out during drift.

Camber 1-1.2 degrees (2 degrees for beginner)

R32 set cradle angle to nose down (R33 and R34 set in neutral) (dont follow whiteline instructions, last time i checked they were backwards )

GTR rear swayway is good and more importantly light, match it with an upgraded front from whiteline.

[gibbau]

i only have a gtr swaybar for the front. The plan was to get an adjustable for the rear and go from there. Do you think this set-up would work?

Or do you suggest selling it and getting a gtr rear and whiteline front? or using gtr rear and the gtr front as well?

Thanks for the other info too.

cheers

Zac

[Sydneykid]

I would always suggest going for an adjustable swaybar at both ends, they are simply the best value suspension upgrade you can make. BTW a 4wd (as in GTR) front swaybar won't fit on a 2wd (as in GTST).

Recommended alignment settings;

FRONT:

Toe = 3 mm toe out each side

Castor = 5.5 to 6.5 degrees, remember whne sideways too mauch caster can mean positive camber on the inside wheel

Camber = make sure you have enough adjustment for 2.5 to 4.0 degrees neg, start off at 3.0 and tune according to tyre temperatures

Use the front adjustable stabiliser bar to tune the amount/speed of turn in

REAR:

Toe = zero, if you can't handle the nervouseness they try some toe in (say 2 mm each side) but try and learn to live with zero. Obviously you need to get rid of the HICAS, it's not on your list of mods

Camber = make sure you have enough adjustment for 1.0 to 2.5 degrees neg, start off at 2.0 and tune according to tyre temperatures. I notice that you mention rear camber amrs, but not traction arms. You will need to adjust them both otherwise you will end up with excessive bump steer.

Subframe alignment kit set in the Drift position.

Use the rear adjustable stabiliser bar to tune the amount of slide

The stabiliser bar rates (diameters) will depend on the spring rates you are running. PM me if you need more detail.

Cheers

Gary

[Simon-S14]

gee you guys run crazy toe on front... i only run 1mm and i like it.. .so do my tyres

[bryyy]

Trent: Thats crazy toe for the front.. how do you find tyre wear, and does it start to get twitchy in a straight line at speed? Also with the rear, do they still dynamically toe out with HICAS disabled?

Gary: Whiteline offer 24mm front and 27mm rear swaybars, are these suitable for standard jap coilover spring rates (ie. 6f 8r)?

And do you guys think there is any point going for the lighter hollow style japanese swaybars over whiteline?

Thanks bry

Edited February 3, 2008 by bryyy

[STATUS]

haha i run 5mm toe out on my daily, sees a fair bit of hill action thats why. On track of course at over 200 it remains perfectley wieghted. Tyre wear is not as bad as you would imagine.

[Sydneykid]

Trent: Thats crazy toe for the front.. how do you find tyre wear, and does it start to get twitchy in a straight line at speed? Also with the rear, do they still dynamically toe out with HICAS disabled?

Gary: Whiteline offer 24mm front and 27mm rear swaybars, are these suitable for standard jap coilover spring rates (ie. 6f 8r)?

And do you guys think there is any point going for the lighter hollow style japanese swaybars over whiteline?

Thanks bry

Since we make them for Redranger, I believe you will actually find that the Whiteline listing is 27 mm front and 24 mm rear.

For drifting we make 27 mm front and 26 mm rear in our own Selbys Swaybars brand, plus we add extra adjustment points, PM me for details.

As for hollow bars, saving 2 kgs or so is insignificant in comparison to achieving adjustability.

Cheers

Gary

[battery]

Here are the settings i found most suited to the R32 i messed around in.

FRONT:

Toe 5-7mm total toe out

Castor 6.5-7degrees MAX

camber 2.75-3.00 degrees neg (wet drop to 2.5)

R32 runs out of lock way to quick so get some uras spacers ($20ish)or some sort of extra lock tie rods (URAS, IKEYA, TEIN, KAZAMA etc)

REAR:

Toe 3mm total toe in (if beginner then start with 0mm) dynamically these things start to toe out during drift.

Camber 1-1.2 degrees (2 degrees for beginner)

R32 set cradle angle to nose down (R33 and R34 set in neutral) (dont follow whiteline instructions, last time i checked they were backwards )

GTR rear swayway is good and more importantly light, match it with an upgraded front from whiteline.

bit offtopic but what are the sizes and offsets for those rims on the 32?

[Simon-S14]

Since we make them for Redranger, I believe you will actually find that the Whiteline listing is 27 mm front and 24 mm rear.

For drifting we make 27 mm front and 26 mm rear in our own Selbys Swaybars brand, plus we add extra adjustment points, PM me for details.

As for hollow bars, saving 2 kgs or so is insignificant in comparison to achieving adjustability.

Cheers

Gary

Hi Gary

Personally i think the 26mm rear bar would be far toos tiff for drift, i use your 24mm adjustable and its on softest setting, toll is pretty much all controlled. On stiffest it just breaks traction a lot easier.

[Sydneykid]

Hi Gary

Personally i think the 26mm rear bar would be far toos tiff for drift, i use your 24mm adjustable and its on softest setting, toll is pretty much all controlled. On stiffest it just breaks traction a lot easier.

That means you have too high a spring rate or your shocks are not up to it. If you run too high a spring rate then you are sacrificing traction when you need it, in a straight line for example. A stabiliser bars does virtually nothing in a straight line, it only works when there is roll. Compare that to too high a spring rate which is there all the time, even when you don't need it. Say in a straight line when there is a gap and you want to accelerate into it. What's the easiest way to win a drift if you have equal drifting capabilities? Pass the guy if you have more traction.

Cheers

Gary

[ZENNON]

edit: nvm me

[Simon-S14]

That means you have too high a spring rate or your shocks are not up to it. If you run too high a spring rate then you are sacrificing traction when you need it, in a straight line for example. A stabiliser bars does virtually nothing in a straight line, it only works when there is roll. Compare that to too high a spring rate which is there all the time, even when you don't need it. Say in a straight line when there is a gap and you want to accelerate into it. What's the easiest way to win a drift if you have equal drifting capabilities? Pass the guy if you have more traction.

Cheers

Gary

haha if only it worked that way gary but no... passing does not = a win.

When i said mine was breaking traction easier i meant during cornering.. im not on the dim side i do know that a stabiliser bar does bugger all in a straight line. I dont run stupidly stiff spring rates either (5kg rear) and my car isnt some stripped out skyline.. its stilla full weight car. roll is minimal as it is which points to the fact that the current settings must be controlling the roll pretty damn well..

I know it might not be the case for all.. but for me, i found that the stiffer i made my adjustable 24mm rear bar the less grip i had while drifting, i was slowing from point to point also (timed with a stopwatch to verify)

if you need someone to test out a 26mm bar i'df be happy to do that at a track day and provide timed differences between my current 24mm adjustable and the 26mm... but otherwise i reckon my set up is pretty spot on.. Ive started playing with the traction rod (3rd arm in the rear end) and have made some mods to the subframe to gain even more midcorner/mid drift grip.

despite what you circuit guys think of drifters... we do want grip.. and lots of it.. it means that we can drift a corner a lot quicker then normal

[Sydneykid]

haha if only it worked that way gary but no... passing does not = a win.

When i said mine was breaking traction easier i meant during cornering.. im not on the dim side i do know that a stabiliser bar does bugger all in a straight line. I dont run stupidly stiff spring rates either (5kg rear) and my car isnt some stripped out skyline.. its stilla full weight car. roll is minimal as it is which points to the fact that the current settings must be controlling the roll pretty damn well..

I know it might not be the case for all.. but for me, i found that the stiffer i made my adjustable 24mm rear bar the less grip i had while drifting, i was slowing from point to point also (timed with a stopwatch to verify)

if you need someone to test out a 26mm bar i'df be happy to do that at a track day and provide timed differences between my current 24mm adjustable and the 26mm... but otherwise i reckon my set up is pretty spot on.. Ive started playing with the traction rod (3rd arm in the rear end) and have made some mods to the subframe to gain even more midcorner/mid drift grip.

despite what you circuit guys think of drifters... we do want grip.. and lots of it.. it means that we can drift a corner a lot quicker then normal

Keeping it short as I have to head off to Bathurst for the 12 hour. As I suspected 5kg/mm is too high. Around 4 to 4.5 kg/mm is a better choice based on my experience. There are a few guys already with 26 mm bars, keeping in mind that they have one setting (8%) softer than the off the shelf 24 mm hardest setting. I am not naive to drifting, after all I did have input into a drift car running Bilsteins last year, didn't do too bad, winning the championship if I remember rightly.

Cheers

Gary

[gibbau]

Just wanted to let you guys know what i chose and how it went. I took my car to accurate suspension out at slacks creek in brisbane. I ordered 24mm front and rear adjustable swaybars (27mm front weren't available) and asked him to set the car up to the following settings;

FRONT:

Toe = 3 mm toe out each side

Castor = 6 degrees

Camber = couldn't adjust

REAR:

Toe = zero

camber = -2 degrees

I also ran both swaybars on the softer of the two settings.

It took me a while, but by the end of the day the car felt fantastic. The castor was perfect, barely needed to touch the steering wheel through transitions. I may lower the rear camber to 1.5 or 1 degree as my tyre wear isn't as even as I would like. Other than that it was spot on.

Just wanted to say thanks for the advice .

-Zac

[dori34]

you need adjustable front camber arms for r32s to do the front camber..