Reccomend Me A Good Clutch For 280rwk

[R33GOD]

got my car dynoed at 220rwk and my exedy sports organic clutch which was supposto be rated to 240rwk has started to slip. worst part its only done 5-6,000 k's tops.

i wont be making more power than i currently have but i want it to last up to 280rwk just incase i want to push for a new setup later on next year.

what would best suit my application?

i do not want another exedy clutch. they suck

thanks

[jenkies]

hey mate exedy isnt all bad i got a brass button single plate on my gtr 200 kw and 625 n/m of torque last time it was dinoed..... it handles full 7000 rpm drops and think that with the amount of torque ive got it is holding up great. had a few extra things done since dinoe so probs puttin out an extra 20 kw now. by the sounds of it ur clutch was just standard heavy duty? no brudd button or nething?? they are tricky to drive in peak hour traffic but u'll get used to it!

hope this helps at all

peace

[R33GOD]

it was a heavy duty organic clutch. they so over rate their clutches though

[Lil_Bobby_260]

it was a heavy duty organic clutch. they so over rate their clutches though

If you think you know enough about clutches to know that exedy overrate them, why do you need one recommended for you...? Seems like you dont even know what exedy clutch you had anyway....?

Also going by your other topics youve posted you like to take it to the drag strip occasionally...? Maybe you just didnt have the right cutch for the job? A clutch designed to ake 250kW will do just that. If you want something you can pop and dump and launch at 5000rpm then maybe you should read the catalogue, and pick one properly, not just go for "heavy duty organic".

I run an exedy clutch - bought direct through a family who runs a department at exedy and could buy your or my car with a weeks pay - behind a 10,000rpm SR20 in a purpose built race SSS Pulsar. This see's nothing but abuse EVERY time its driven. Cant fault it.

[R33GOD]

or could it be my current clutch pedal needs adjusting. as the engagment is way too high when i clutch in and out. also when i drive i can feel constant shudder in 1st and 2nd gear.

[Lil_Bobby_260]

that could be you first and second gear - wouldnt clutch do it in all gears...? First and second cop most abuse on strip days.

As far as engagement height goes - could be an adjustment issue. Does it pick up and bite well when released, or does it rev out then come back down? Is it slipping?

[R33GOD]

If you think you know enough about clutches to know that exedy overrate them, why do you need one recommended for you...? Seems like you dont even know what exedy clutch you had anyway....?

Also going by your other topics youve posted you like to take it to the drag strip occasionally...? Maybe you just didnt have the right cutch for the job? A clutch designed to ake 250kW will do just that. If you want something you can pop and dump and launch at 5000rpm then maybe you should read the catalogue, and pick one properly, not just go for "heavy duty organic".

I run an exedy clutch - bought direct through a family who runs a department at exedy and could buy your or my car with a weeks pay - behind a 10,000rpm SR20 in a purpose built race SSS Pulsar. This see's nothing but abuse EVERY time its driven. Cant fault it.

yes i understand what you saying but most times i don not rev n dump and it still slips top of 1st gear

[R33GOD]

that could be you first and second gear - wouldnt clutch do it in all gears...? First and second cop most abuse on strip days.

As far as engagement height goes - could be an adjustment issue. Does it pick up and bite well when released, or does it rev out then come back down? Is it slipping?

it done it tonight more so in 2nd gear. just revved and went no where

[R33GOD]

the clutch i currently have is a exedy sports organic nsk7056so. and i do know what clutch i have

[RBwhatever]

hey mate exedy isnt all bad i got a brass button single plate on my gtr 200 kw and 625 n/m of torque last time it was dinoed..... it handles full 7000 rpm drops and think that with the amount of torque ive got it is holding up great. had a few extra things done since dinoe so probs puttin out an extra 20 kw now. by the sounds of it ur clutch was just standard heavy duty? no brudd button or nething?? they are tricky to drive in peak hour traffic but u'll get used to it!

hope this helps at all

peace

This has nothing to do with the thread, but anyway. You quoted your torque figure of 625nm..... i'm assuming you read this off the dyno sheet? As far as my knowledge serves me, that would probably be a load of crapola. I wouldn't believe that figure. My old dyno sheet tells me i had 200hp & 722nm, i don't think so jim. Ignore the torque reading, look at the kw/hp.

it was a heavy duty organic clutch. they so over rate their clutches though

Maybe a cushioned button clutch would suit your needs and should cover your power goal. Otherwise just a button clutch if you don't mind the harsher engagement.....apparently.

[Lil_Bobby_260]

its definitely slipping then. Get it checked out by a specialist just to make sure that its engaging and disengaging 100% and that there are no dramas in any linkages etc, but if all else fails then yeah she may just be goorne. Your 33 is no doubta lot heavier than a race prepped SSS, so a lot more stress will be put on it as far as launching a car goes. All clutches like that will wear out - they are designed to. It is the weak point in your drivetrain that stops everything else from getting smashed up. Even a 500hp clutch will wear out, a lot of it depends on how you drive. This is not a dig at you - just cos you put a lot of strain on your clutch and blow it, doesnt make you a bad driver. It not so much a matter of driving good or bad - its driving soft or hard.

I have an XF falcon with a 4spd, and i used to go through 500hp clutches like they were nothing, just cos its a heavy car, and i drove it hard. But i know that if my clutch didnt have a bit of give and wear in it, i wouldve being going thru diffs and gearboxes. MUCH more expensive.

[Lil_Bobby_260]

PS the clutch you got isnt all that 'heavy' duty... its okay for driving a car with a bit of power, but if you like to give it some stick and chirp through your gears occasionally, and with a bit of strip action thrown in, you need to get something, as above, like a cushioned button. Bit more streetable than a solid button (on or off) clutch that will be more fogiving to the way you might want to drive, without transferring too much stress to other parts of your drivetrain.

[R33GOD]

would a exedy cushion button be a good application for me even if i up the boost and make 240rwk? different brand?

and how will the cushioned button clutches be on my gearbox and diff compared to what i have?

im a newbie when it comes to clutches

[jenkies]

This has nothing to do with the thread, but anyway. You quoted your torque figure of 625nm..... i'm assuming you read this off the dyno sheet? As far as my knowledge serves me, that would probably be a load of crapola. I wouldn't believe that figure. My old dyno sheet tells me i had 200hp & 722nm, i don't think so jim. Ignore the torque reading, look at the kw/hp.

Maybe a cushioned button clutch would suit your needs and should cover your power goal. Otherwise just a button clutch if you don't mind the harsher engagement.....apparently.

yes as i said this is what it pulled on the dyno so of coarse i read it off the sheet. i know dynos are only a tuning tool and all read differently but it was done on a dynalog dynometre for 4wd just so u know makes.

1 bar of boost and pleanty of goodies... and most gtr's with same mods as mine same ecu putting out 240kw atw so going by that most kw/hp figures are a load of crapola off a dyno too! so i dont really know why u had to come on someone elses thread and tell me something i alredy knew...... (dynos areant exact)

i was just stating what i pulled on a dyno so r33god had an idea that brass buttons were a tuff clutch my car hasnt done many kms on it so far but i can say nothing but good things about exedy and their brass button clutches.

peace!

[rev210]

organic clutch? Not really up to the task if you drive like a mad bastard. Go thier 9 puck ceramic sprung job.

[RBwhatever]

yes as i said this is what it pulled on the dyno so of coarse i read it off the sheet. i know dynos are only a tuning tool and all read differently but it was done on a dynalog dynometre for 4wd just so u know makes.

1 bar of boost and pleanty of goodies... and most gtr's with same mods as mine same ecu putting out 240kw atw so going by that most kw/hp figures are a load of crapola off a dyno too! so i dont really know why u had to come on someone elses thread and tell me something i alredy knew...... (dynos areant exact)

i was just stating what i pulled on a dyno so r33god had an idea that brass buttons were a tuff clutch my car hasnt done many kms on it so far but i can say nothing but good things about exedy and their brass button clutches.

peace!

Tis true what you say, in essence the reason why i said it was because the high torque reading are products of gear multiplication etc etc.

But yeah its about clutches today, so i'll keep it on clutches. Sorry I probably came across the wrong way dude lol.

Peace likwise bro

Edited February 3, 2008 by KeyMaker

[R33GOD]

i just drove my friends r33. he has a exedy cushioned button clutch. they feel like a standard clutch and are awesome and very streetable. ordering one tomorow and my mate told me there good for holding 260rwk?

[N1GTR]

Pffft singles

Nismo super coppermix twin!

It wont slip with that power, and its not bad on the street. Just dont ride it

[KISIN]

Change your style of driving ?

[1400r]

ATS carbon twin plate

if it hasn't been mentioned yet?