Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-t Vs R33 Gts


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what's an R33 GTR-S?

^^^^^^^+1

?????

SO you want a 32 or 33, some guy gets you a photo of a 32 then you say 32 is now rubbish. Then you say 33 gtr-s. Maybe you meant r33 gtr's like your gonna get two? maybe take your time, do more research then you have to date then, buy whatever you want and behave yourself.

Ova.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the 33 failed in design, hence the face lift on the series 2

Wtf? Where'd you get that info from? The R33 never failed...it's a very popular model and to many of us is awesome, bodykits make it even sweeter.

And WTF? Hence S2? They're practically identical, the bonnet and side ridges were sharpened, front bar tweaked, boot features coloured differently, and interior made worse with cheap upholstery. How is that more than minor tweaks, like on any other car?

R33 S1 (& S2) is more mature looking than R32. Look, even Domenico agrees:

i like the front and sides of the R33 better. Personally i think it's one of the greatest body shapes ever.

Hmmm, one of the greatest ever? :P

Yes, it's unique.

Buy the R33 gts and sell it once you have done some driver training in it. Don't mod it, as waste of money.

93kw in a RWD car is still going to be fun. I had fun driving my AE92 Corolla for fks sake! :D

Buying a car should be an act of passion, not just reasoning. Now go forth and test drive!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont understand the R34 looking cheap compared to an R33.. but then again interiors vary depending on the spec.

I know the GTTs definitely dont look cheap, but ive never been around a non turbo to compare:)

get the turbo 32 DO IT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alot of people still perfer the R32 styling to the R33 personally if i was gonna get a R33 i would go for the R33 series 2. If you do decide to purchase a R32 get the later models 92-93 models as they have updated interior just feels and looks nice than your early 1990 R32s, hope this help you to make your decision.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well....First of all let me say that personally I think your sig is a disgracefully cheap shot at an Australian Icon who has done nothing but cared for all.

2nd, get the lower power R33 you obviously don't have the maturity in my opinion to even handle a turbo.

2 cents worth, do what you want I don't care.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^^^^^^+1

?????

SO you want a 32 or 33, some guy gets you a photo of a 32 then you say 32 is now rubbish. Then you say 33 gtr-s. Maybe you meant r33 gtr's like your gonna get two? maybe take your time, do more research then you have to date then, buy whatever you want and behave yourself.

Ova.

I did not say i didn't want the R32 because of the photo, and that was a SERIES 2 R32. I've stated many times that i prefer a newer vehicles, and that should be reason enough for turning away from the R32

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well....First of all let me say that personally I think your sig is a disgracefully cheap shot at an Australian Icon who has done nothing but cared for all.

2nd, get the lower power R33 you obviously don't have the maturity in my opinion to even handle a turbo.

2 cents worth, do what you want I don't care.

Yeah... sure, and you don't have the maturity to handle a pokemon steve irwin gag. Your opinion is clearly worth no more than 2 cents anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

glad your back Dom, What is a gtr-s? The search feature on this site might be a bit difficult to use, however if you did become aquainted with it you will appreciate the knowledge of others from years gone by. If you have decided that you no longer like a 32 due to age, then you have answered your own question. thread closed.........please :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah... sure, and you don't have the maturity to handle a pokemon steve irwin gag. Your opinion is clearly worth no more than 2 cents anyway.

Maturity...Pokemon = HAHAHA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
    • You can just get the injector bosses, which allows top feeds to fit. He can use the same injectors without issue, like these (another option): https://rocketindustries.com.au/af59-2210-rb25-fuel-injector-inserts     The Racework ones look a bit better: https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/   You could also just get a similar kit like the Radium one by Plazmaman: https://plazmaman.com/product/nissan-rb25det-r33-billet-fuel-rail/?srsltid=AfmBOoogfYq49X0fu2Wdbf8yOf6zt9egyPAif_gn3Qr3G8hzAphhTgOkO70  
×
×
  • Create New...