Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how much does a dry setup run for you guys down here its not to expensive i can buy a slightly used setup for about 1200 with the sump fabrication, im in peru man aeroquip fitings are made here, stainless steel meshed lines all made here , i hear it costs you guys about 7000 dollers to repair an engine in machine shop costs, down here ive go it all done for 400 dollers, how much do you guys think it cost me to put a 1ggte in my ae86(2.0 twin turbo inline 6) cost me 300 dollers painted with intercooler piping ran a 12.3 with that car(ofcourse i have to guide them a little bit but man a1 work), diffrent worlds, here profesional labor is super cheap minimum wage is 200 dollers a month, a flow tested port in polish and 5 angle valve job cost me 380 dollers, but i honestly dont think ill have lubrication problems

Edited by ReganGTS25T
who spun that? maybe im outta the loop but i can get a jun pump for under a grand but have no chance of doing a dry sump arrangement for under a grand.... maybe my supplier is jibbing me :)

just curious how much do you get a jun pump for, in the states the greddy is at 1000, the nismo 1 is at 1200

Edited by ReganGTS25T
How did the last owner manage to do that?

im the first owner of the car the importer's mechanic did that when the car didnt want to start lol, i guss he was trying to take the fuel rail out without taking 1 of the screws or something like that lol, its either that or they used it to hit some 1 lol

i would be more concerned about head lifting and and main caps walking ... before you put the sump on fit some ARP main studs or else the rods and so forth are a wasted excersise...

Have you ever had problems with ARP mains in the RB's when torqueing to ARP spec's?

Ive had loads of problems with them in SR20's pulling the block slightly and causing crank bind and finding people in South Africa to line bore SR20's is a real challange, left me with sour taste especialy when you have to grind 2 of them down so it doesnt crack the oil pan. I normaly use all their studs besides the mains, but with my RB I will need to upgrade but I really dont want to line bore a 11 000km old motor.

Have you ever had problems with ARP mains in the RB's when torqueing to ARP spec's?

Ive had loads of problems with them in SR20's pulling the block slightly and causing crank bind and finding people in South Africa to line bore SR20's is a real challange, left me with sour taste especialy when you have to grind 2 of them down so it doesnt crack the oil pan. I normaly use all their studs besides the mains, but with my RB I will need to upgrade but I really dont want to line bore a 11 000km old motor.

from memory it is 65ft/lbs..... which is not real tight. The only issues with SR's and ARP's is the fact the alloy middle sump sump section fouls and requires the removal of 3-mm off the top of those two ARP studs.

im doing another as we speak.

post-34927-1202114936_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had never actually looked into it, but aren't onboard compressors a thing in trucks?
    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...