Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Thanks Daniel, glad you like the box, Still investigating the left hand side. Will let you guys know when I've come up with something. I think that cutting out the piece of metal on the left side would have to be a last resort. I would much rather see that piece stay and work around it. Will try and work something out anyhow.

Cheers

Ben

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
Still some for sale ready to go guys. get your orders in.

Hi Lofty - how much with Postage to Adelaide?

Can you give me an idea of what kind of sub is recommended to go in this, and what exactly is involved in installing the box.

Hi guys, in answer to your questions,

Ionos- postage to Adelaide would be about $25, I am using a 12" kenwood sub in mine and this works great. I'm sure any 12" sub would sound good and some people have suggested a 10" depending on what your after, check out some of the replies on this post for a bit more info. Installation is easy. just attach the wires already in the box to your sub, screw your sub to the mdf front of the box and slide the box into the cavity on the right hand side of the boot. you will also have to trim the boot lining on this side with some scissors or a stanley knife. If your worried about the box sliding around, (which it shouln't because of the snug fit) you can drill some holes in the back and bolt it to the existing holes for the trim that needs removing.

MATT-R33 - I have no problem fitting my oldschool deep 12" kenwood in the box so I can't imagine there would be too much trouble with a 10". the overall depth is about 300mm but there is a section that conforms to the bracing in the boot behind the trim which is about 120mm in depth. this doesn't interfere with my sub so it shouldn't with yours but I could always construct one with an offset sub hole further to the rear of the car(right hand side of box when looking at hole side). This would be no hassle as I would have to do one for a 10" anyhow as I only have 12" ones at the moment. just need to cut a front and bond and carpet it. already have shells ready to go. I'm on the North Shore not far from chatswood.

Greddy Skyline - These boxes are quite light. The shell being fibreglass keeps the weight down compared to the relatively heavy mdf. I rely on the snug fit of the box to keep it in place and I do throw the car around a bit. so being light doesn't mean it is more likely to roll about. In my experience the boxes available from Strathfield etc. are quite heavy as they are full 16mm mdf on all sides.

hope this answers your questions

Cheers

Ben

ok well i want one then if i could please.

i can cut the hole myself if you have blanks. i do need one with a 10" hole abd due to my oz audio sub weighting about 20kgs i was actually planning on making a box myself with a 32mm front to cope with all the weight. and i was going to router out a a rim for the sub about 10mm deep. seeing yours on here just makes my life easier i guess.

please let me know what you have avaliable and i am south of sydney in the shire but have no problems coming up to pick one up. let me know when is best for you and how much each box is please.

i'm hoping to get one a.s.a.p. if possible.

thanks

Got mine, it's awesome! Thanks Loftyfang. Installed already.

Only problem I had was that the hole was not big enough for my sub, I had to route it out about another 5mm all the way around. I was using a Rockford Fosgate P1 12"

Hi guys, thanks for the words of encouragement. I'm glad everyone has been happy with their boxes so far. The hole at the front was measured off my sub and I reduced the size by about 5mm to allow for slightly smaller ones. You can always open the hole a bit more but making it smaller a big drama. For anyone else who has to increase the size of the hole, just do as Ionos has done with the router or even a jigsaw can be used.

I have one box left out of this batch and there is a vaugue possibility of me moving back up to Cairns in the near future. I will try and get a few made and leave them with my mate down here but any further ones will need to be posted and may cost a little more. They are not too bad to post but I am going to look into using courier as they are sometimes cheaper than auspost on larger items.

Cheers

Ben

  • 1 month later...

One left guys, not making any more batches due to lack of interest. May make them to order but the wait time will be greater and as I am moving to Cairns in December, the postage will also be greater. Like I said one left and if there are more people who want them, better get in quick because, as most people on here would already know, my work schedule is very unreliable and I may not have the time to do them until I get to Cairns.

Cheers

Ben

Anyone who's considering it should jump on this. I still haven't had a chance to install mine (I'm halfway through the amp install ok :laugh:) but these boxes are very nicely made and take up minimal boot space when installed. You won't get a more compact sub install in a 33 and Ben's done a great job on them.

Hey mate, I wouldnt mind getting one if you are still making them, I got a 15in with my 33 when I bought it but there just no room and I was thinking of getting something like this made up to fit a 12.

Hey mate, I wouldnt mind getting one if you are still making them, I got a 15in with my 33 when I bought it but there just no room and I was thinking of getting something like this made up to fit a 12.

Hey TJ,

I have one left ready to go, to suit a 12" fully carpeted with speaker fittings. If you are in sydney, you are more than welcome to pick it up. If you need it posted let me know so I can pm you my bank details and get your address.

Cheers

Ben

  • 8 months later...
hey im very interested. would love to see some finished pics n then we can talk price. look forward to hearing from u

Its always a good idea to read the thread first, also take note of the date of the last post.

Mhmm.. still, I want one if theres one available :P

From memory he works for army and is always being posted either interstate or overseas so it limited the time he had to do them, from memory he was not real keen on doing another batch but if there is enough interest that might persuade him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.
    • I agree, and yet my "HRM " hat is also on, as his wideband is in disagreement with the narrowband where they used to play closer attention to each other.
    • That's the thing. Especially at idle, changing the cam angle by that much could be spewing more fuel out the exhaust courtesy of everything happening that bit later. More fuel also means more air (if the fuel didn't burn, then neither did the O2) and so the O2 sensors can start to tell interesting but misleading stories. And the specifics of what is happening could easily be affected by everything else you changed as well. And it could be dynamic, where a few revs more or less could somewhat change how the engine is breathing.
    • Good idea on the temp probe. The mv readings of the O2 sensors are very similar to one another, as is the injector pw. I went through logs in the past to see if there was a discrepancy and there is. Because they alternate up and down as narrowbands do.. they do often 'switch' as to which one is more. They were never 20%+ (more like 1-2%) so it's possible the difference between 20 and 15-17% is a similar discrepancy to 2.0% and 1.7% which I wouldn't have really noticed in the past. We did think about spacing the strut brace. Unfortunately the ~20mm that the GTR brace is lower than the GTT brace is effectively what you need to clear the vents. Moving it up would make it very uncomfortable, but it's plausible that 10mm is a unhappy medium between both hard places... The good news is.. using MR HAMMER it was actually pretty easy to bend back the bent bits to make sure the guard and headlight/new headlight tabs line up right. Yes, we used a R34 GTR guard to make sure the bolt holes all lined up with a known straight guard. As above, you can see the side skirt and the GTR guard are not meant to play together, but everyone seems to think this is a simple fix to the point where nobody who has had these talk to one another mentions how... ...so I'll just assume they know how to fix it when it comes to paint jail time again. Whoever they are. Nobody returns my calls. There's so much changed with regard to the ECU and the car.. that the next step really is to connect the scanner and attempt to drive the thing. It'll be pretty clear pretty fast how in or out everything actually is...
    • That's nasty! I think there is perhaps an inherent problem is using elastomers in such environments. The whole thing can and will get quite hot, and elastomers are not famous for their temperature resistance. On top of that, if the components are cast rubber or urethane and so on, there might be QA/QC problems with bubbles or voids in the material that could critically change their performance. They might just tear apart after being squished (presuming that any elastomers are used in compression rather than tension, I'm thinking that you squeeze one with a void in it and it tears the wall of the void to the outer edge of block, then the next time it extends or otherwise twists, it just gives up). This is all purely hypothetical, but it makes me wonder if the things that they have put into it to make it nice to use/live with are perhaps going to cause occasional failures like this. I wouldn't be getting up in arms over it, unless there are many repeats. I have personally ruined an Xtreme clutch - just an HD thing. I can't remember if it was still behind the 20 or was after the 25 went in. But it inverted some of the retaining spring/clip things around the outside. No-one could explain it. It wasn't thrashed, there wasn't heaps of torque being put through it, and there were no obvious problems other than the above. They were quite concerned by the event so they replaced it even though it was a few years old, which was very nice of them. As far as I am concerned, these things happen with clutches.
×
×
  • Create New...