Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just a simple question regaurding battery power. I am thinking of running a 12inch sub off a monoblock amp, however i am already a 2channel amp powering front splits. Will i need anything else to get this going? Any help will be fantastic!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204353-bigger-battery-or-not/
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

Usually i'd say no, but it's hard to tell if you don't give us the power consumption of the amp, or at least the WRMS output rating (from which the power consumption can be worked out)

Do you have a skyline? skylines usually have good charging systems. If you only listen to the stereo while the car is running i wouldn't worry about it, unless your stereo system is churning >5000WRMS then you'd probably want a larger alternator lol.

If you do listen to the stereo a lot while the car is off, and you've found that it's flattening the battery, you can do two things.

1. Install a second deep cycle battery in your car. (deep cycle batteries are very good at discharging most of their stored charge without lowering voltage, unlike regular car batteries which are designed for short bursts of great power) You will also need to install a charging manager to ensure that your main battery charges first, then when it is full it will begin to charge your second battery.

I wouldn't worry about that though...too much work, also only really neccesary if your stereo is churning stacks of power.

2. Install a hybrid battery in your car, these batteries are not quite as effective as two batteries, but are adept at both providing large surges of power to start your car even after being considerably drained. (from your car stereo say) This basically means you can use headlights/stereo/interior lights exc much longer before draining the battery beyond the point of starting your car.

Either way, i don't think your 2channel amp and monoblock amp will consume enough power to worry about, unless you leave it going while the car is off for hours at a time. If so i'd reccomend one of the above options. Or just turn your car back on for 10mins every hour or so :)

Hope that helps!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I removed the head expecting to find broken and bent valves, but instead found number 1 at TDC and cylinder 2 at the top of its cylinder stroke as well, thought that was weird and proceeded to push cylinder 2 back down until it either bottomed out on its other piston half or the conrod either way we found the issue kind of,  now to remove the engine and see how the block looks, hopefully its just the top off a piston.  
    • A little more work this week.  Fitted astra power steering pump in the boot with a lowe fabrication bracket. Gave the pump a good clean, fitted Anderson plug and high pressure fitting. With the intercooler being flipped under rad support factory headlights weren't going to work. Ordered a set of origin battle lights, they arrived so got them test fitted. Will require some fiddling to fit nice but was an easy quick option for now. And today we pulled out the manual Rb gearbox and test fitted a ZF 8HP50. It will fit with some casting tabs cut off and small tap of the tunnel with a hammer. Pick up the adapter plate Wednesday so hopefully all bolted in Friday and measure for tailshaft which will be a 2 piece. Been doing a lot of ecu, pdm and tcu loom design so when comes to wiring it in a few weeks will all go smoothly.
    • FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
    • One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.
×
×
  • Create New...