Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Went to calder last friday for the 1st time and and ran my car a few times, was wondering what sort of times other similiar cars was getting as i was going up against 11 sec cars!

My car and Mods:

1993 R33 Gts-t (Auto)

Performance mods:

Apexi N1 catback Exhuast

R34 Side mount cooler

running 9 Psi

Tyres: 17 inch rims with 245 continental tyres (about 60% thread) 22 PSI

and everything else is pretty much stock. Not tuned or anything like that.

My best time was:

14.29 @ 157 km/h

most my times was between 14.3 and 14.6 - i had about 11 runs.

I found that the car would launch hard but then die in the last 100 meters :D

i would be very happy with that time.

our skylines up north just cant seem to push the same times. different track and maybe the prep will probably be part of the reason.

what 60ft time?

hmmm really? the weather could also play a part i guess....on friday (when i went) it wasnt too bad, track temp was about 24 degrees..

60ft time was: 2.11

660' - 9.12 @ 125 km/h

That's a good time.

Are you planning to go quicker?

ye id love to break into the 13 seconds... and then i will be happy.

My car is a daily driver, ive had it for about 5 years and i've done 110,000 km's on it since ive got it...

I rekon maybe with a FMIC, high flow cat + dump pipe i could improve the top end a bit and maybe break into the high 13's!

But at the same time, as it is now, its great for day to day street driving / over taking and quicker off the line than more modified / tuned manual R33's of some of my mates and i don't know if i want to lose that to gain a few milliseconds on the drag strip!

What was your 60ft times?

Their is some easy time to be made up at a reasonable cost.

1) Get yourself a pair of R32 GTR rims (or 300ZX rims) and buy a new pair of Mickey Thompson ET Street tyres. This will lower your 60ft time without a doubt and should cost under $700.

2) Get a 1 piece front/dump pipe along with a new hiflow cat to finish off your exhaust system. You will have more power right through the rev range which will result in a higher terminal speed (currently ~94mph) and should cost under $700 as well.

What was your 60ft times?

Their is some easy time to be made up at a reasonable cost.

1) Get yourself a pair of R32 GTR rims (or 300ZX rims) and buy a new pair of Mickey Thompson ET Street tyres. This will lower your 60ft time without a doubt and should cost under $700.

2) Get a 1 piece front/dump pipe along with a new hiflow cat to finish off your exhaust system. You will have more power right through the rev range which will result in a higher terminal speed (currently ~94mph) and should cost under $700 as well.

60ft time was 2.11

thanks for the tip! ye i'm def going to invest in making the exhaust to turbo back me thinks!

Justjap have a nice deal going for you:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/JJ...RB-t204414.html

So much cheaper than I first thought, wouldn't take more than an hours labour if it is a straight fit to your existing cat-back exhaust so you should be able to have it fitted for about $500 all up.

is it losing traction on launch?

being auto and stockish, I don't think it would.

anyway.

to get something like a 13.9 (in to the 13's as you're said).. get the exhaust finished (dump pipe and front pipe in one and a new large cat).

then get an SAFC and have it tuned.

Even the blue screen SAFC would get you a good increase in power, especially in the upper end.

the Blue screen ones would be below $300 now for sure.

dump/front pipe in one can be picked up for about $200 from a number of places brand new.

SAFC tune will probably set you back about $200.

all of that easily under $1K.

should push power to near 190rwkw.

should net you 13.xx

if you are losing traction on launch, then look in to tyres too.

I would also race with 16's instead of 17's.

I dare say that your 17's with tyres would weigh more than the stockers which weigh 16kg with tyres.

EDIT - don't replace the R34 SMIC with a FMIC.

you will lose the response that you love at the moment.

it is more than up to the task.

If the R34 SMIC doesn't have any ducting to it, I would look in to making one for it.

Water spray is another option but probably not needed.

Edited by GTST
What was your 60ft times?

Their is some easy time to be made up at a reasonable cost.

1) Get yourself a pair of R32 GTR rims (or 300ZX rims) and buy a new pair of Mickey Thompson ET Street tyres. This will lower your 60ft time without a doubt and should cost under $700.

2) Get a 1 piece front/dump pipe along with a new hiflow cat to finish off your exhaust system. You will have more power right through the rev range which will result in a higher terminal speed (currently ~94mph) and should cost under $700 as well.

his current mph is more like 97

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...