Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I Have a Panasonic Head Unit, two amps, two subs, blah blah blah, jis recently i have been getting feedback through speaker (buzzing sound up n down with throttle) also if i leave face plate in my battery will go flat!

Does any one have any ideas why this occuring and what i might do to fix it?

Thnank-you

I Have a Panasonic Head Unit, two amps, two subs, blah blah blah, jis recently i have been getting feedback through speaker (buzzing sound up n down with throttle) also if i leave face plate in my battery will go flat!

Does any one have any ideas why this occuring and what i might do to fix it?

Thnank-you

2 Questions

1. What quality are ur signal cables?

2. Where abouts does ur cabling run

Hey Jay,

Thanx for the responce, obviously an auto elec has put it together, the cables look fairly desent, however there is a fair bit of a mess in the upper back right of ther boot (cables leading into the back seat from boot) and another factor could be the battery acid which seems to have corroded areas, also bit of residue on amp plugs.

You seem to think its obviously a problem with my leads, and i dare say it must be in the boot being the only exposed cables, what do u suggest?

Thankyou

Hey Jay,

Thanx for the responce, obviously an auto elec has put it together, the cables look fairly desent, however there is a fair bit of a mess in the upper back right of ther boot (cables leading into the back seat from boot) and another factor could be the battery acid which seems to have corroded areas, also bit of residue on amp plugs.

You seem to think its obviously a problem with my leads, and i dare say it must be in the boot being the only exposed cables, what do u suggest?

Thankyou

Hey mate

Your autoelect has probably gotten lazy and wired the signal and power cables right next to eachother without a noise filter.

The best way would be rewire them at least 30cm away from eachother. But it's easier to install a noise filter on all your power cables, this is the quickest but also priciest way, you will need to make sure the noise filter has the same or a larger power handling than the maximum consumption of your amp.

The exposed wires in the boot should be no hassle and the battery acid should only be a problem if it's corroding any of your wires.

Hope that helps!

Cheers mate,

I think your probably got it solved, sounds like a job for the weekend though, I'll let you know how it goes. Much appreciated.

Thanks again!

is you head unit on when you turn your car off?

means ur HU is not wired up properly. the acc wire is hooked up to the positive.

feed back though the speakers can be billions of things (i had this issue before)

*power cables and speaker cables running near eachother

*Alternator issues

*head unit problems (which was my issue in my civic)

have fun mate :P

im not sure about speaker wiring... but this may be help to anyone who has had wiring done...

the reason you must seperate your power cables and your speaker cables is due to magnetism... when a wire has current flowing thru it (power cable), the current running thru the cable generates a magnetic field... this magnetic field "induces" current into the speaker wires which obviously carry the sound current... the hissing/interference noise is that magnetic field interferring (inducing curent) with the sound signals going from the amp to the speakers... this is same problem as running data cabling next to power cables for socket outlets... the magnetic field disturbs the data signals between computer and you have all sorts of problems... this is generally overcome by "screening" or "shielding"... im not sure if you can get audio cabling that has this built into it aswell...

hope this answer any questions as to why you must seperate your power cables from just about anything else...

:O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...