R33 Parts (grage Sale ...all Must Go)
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Another complicated thing is to run Z32 alloy hubs which have wheel speed sensors for ABS. You need different tie rod end, and you need new bearings on the upright etc. I did that as part of a major refresh when my front kingpin bearing flogged out., Alloy was a little lighter, runs a bigger bearing , gives a few extra mm in wheelbase as it moves the wheel forward in the arch (cant run crazy but can still get 8ish comfortably). All in all glad I did it but was a head fark as tried it once and abandoned it the first time. sav man swung his spanners at it and got it working so using his guidance on GTR/Z32 tie rod ends etc and the required mismatch of parts was able to make it work. Probably a 2k upgrade all said and done :( I think the best bet is just look around your front wheel and see what you can pick up rotationally. You see old Escorts, E30s etc all get very creative with front uprights and the humble old angled alloy bracket. -
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If your HP goal is reasonable and you are not drifting. Buy a new R34 box. If the above is not true, buy a wrecked R33 box and put a gearset in it. CD09 are not as strong as you think and the cost of / mess around of the conversion puts you in gearset territory. Also the deal above is awesome,, get that
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Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this... ..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway.... ...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this... ....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)... ...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)... -
Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
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