Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gents

Got few things for sale

1. R33 stock Orginal standard shocks - $ 70 + postage

-SOLD

2. R33 Standard rear springs - $ 10 + postage

3. Rear strut tops, fulll kit - $40 + postage (you will need this if you are going back to normal shocks from coilovers.)

- SOLD

4. Water pump for R33 (Coming out of my R33 GTS4 RB25DE, has done 109 000Km), nothing wrong with it, just did my major service and rplaced it anyway) - $40 + postage

1. JIC coil overs, will suit R33 GTST (which i have been told by my Mechanic) R33 GTS4 (For sure), or R33 GTR(Front ones only) in good condition, not sure about the spring rate though, ride is really stiff (Coming out of my r33 gts4) - $250.- SOLD

5. KENWOOD CD MD changer controll (AM/FM) - $30 + postage - SOLD

[color="#0000FF"]7.R33 Cat Back Exhaust 3.5" Pipe 4.5" Tip All Stainles Stell, FGK (Fujutsubo Giken) -SOLD [/color]

[/size][/size]

*************All offers will be considered. PM *******

located in Sydney- Kellyville, will post

post-33178-1202194839_thumb.jpg

post-33178-1202194897_thumb.jpg

post-33178-1202194964_thumb.jpg

post-33178-1202195033_thumb.jpg

post-33178-1202195095_thumb.jpg

post-33178-1202213396_thumb.jpg

post-33178-1204633639_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204641-r33-parts-grage-sale-all-must-go/
Share on other sites

get em posted mate, wouldnt cost ya anymore than bout 40 bucks at the most. 250 is cheap

No worries, two ppl are ahead in the queue, any case if they dont pick it up, I will post :D

As I told most of you,,,,,,,,,The coil overs are pretty hard on normal day to day driving that why I took them off. Now I really dont know if there are any leaks or not, but even if there are $250 is really cheap, and it wont cost you much to rebuild I guess, thats only if they are leaking hehehelol :D

no i want them...hahaha how come you are selling though? wana swap for my teins? dont feel like theyre stiff enough for me :P

Will swap for money :D

I hate coilovers man, since im not planing to drift or anything,,,,I dont car about my abs not working, but I NEED MY 4WD back.......... :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...