Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah..

I'm still trying to work out whether if I go to a GTR, or a 2 door rear bar, if I can then install these aftermarket lights...

I think that witht he longer wheelbase, I don't think these other rear bars will fit..

Here is a question for those who might know...

Is it the actual light that do not fit, or that with aftermarket LED lights, indicators cannot be accomodated at the rear of the car???

I haven't personally seen a 4dr R34 tail lights.. but I imagine if the big and little 'stove tops' are the same size as a 2dr, you should be able to mod a pair of 2dr R34 LED taillights to fit in the 4dr tail light caseing... probably have to splice the wiring for the blinkers or maybe not...

Yeah.. I was just wondering if anyone had actually done this... 2 Door lights are the bomb, not that the 4 door ones are pish... However it is just a little something I'd like to upgrade, i was hoping that someone had already done a conversion.... Also, I need to know if a 2 door rear bar would fit a 4 door taxi???

  • 2 years later...

Wow, I just checked out the link... and....

3p_image_05.jpg

3p_image_08.jpg

How on earth do you guys flare the rear guards and doors like that in a 4-door??? Either way I'm quite interested!

btw, I could not find any info on LED lights for R34 4 door..

Edited by Marco-R34GTT
How on earth do you guys flare the rear guards and doors like that in a 4-door??? Either way I'm quite interested!

btw, I could not find any info on LED lights for R34 4 door..

Cross Factory ER34 Sedan -> BNR34 GTR conversion fender skins. The shop seems to be in Japan, so makes sense.

Cross Factory ER34 Sedan -> BNR34 GTR conversion fender skins. The shop seems to be in Japan, so makes sense.

Really?? I went to there site and found only this..

r344sssssss.JPG

No tinkering with the rear fender/door there... :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
×
×
  • Create New...