Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends what u need it for? If u are on a budget i'd say R31 - coz it sounds like ur gonna go the way of the Skyline in the future. Plus parts and availability for these cars will be plentiful considering they were locally sold.

Both Civic and Corolla are good options 2 (modification friendly like the old skool Skyzerr). More petrol efficient if u want 2 to save a bit of money.

Ive been looking for a car for a while as mine is SH!T. anyway in a recent zoom magazine (No. 53) they have an article on the best performance buys for under $10,000. Here it is:

1989-91 MX6 Turbo

1987-88 VL Turbo

1987-89 MR2 AW11

1989-89 R31 GTS/Passage

1986-89 Commodore VN-VP V8

1978-85 RX7 Series 1-3

1989-98 Swift GTi

1987-94 205 GTi

1987-90 Laser TX3 4WD Turbo

1982-87 Starion JB-JD

for more info on then cars just ask cause there other stuff like power, torque, weight, kg,kW, 0-100 and 400M. also theres insurance prices which are helpfull

You need to work out what you want from the car. Do you want space? Is performance important? How many doors? What sort of transmission? Can you afford to keep it going? etc

Wagon, sedan, hatch, 4WD?

Remember running costs...

Aus cars and older Jap cars are cheap to service. 4cyls are better on petrol than 8cyls. Rotaries can be quite thirsty.

Corollas are great. They are cheap to buy and run. Sure - most are FWD, but they are still quite zippy. Alternatively, you could get an Aus delivered Sprinter (AE85 RWD) and as you save up, swap the engine for a 4AGE or 4AGZE. This way you can learn how a RWD car handles without having too much power to start.

Euros are very expensive to maintain. Older turbos may need expensive work soon. The more complex the car is - the more expensive it is to fix.

For under $10k I'd look at a Japanese 4cyl. Mazda 323, Ford Laser, Toyota Corolla, Mitsubishi Lancer. Cheap, fun and reasonable to maintain.

Just my 2c

Oh - if you want a 4WD, Ladas aren't as bad as people make out :)

This may sound antinissan but if you go to the tradingpost auto trader website there is a Toyota sprinter for sale for 5K. I think the person has swapped the 4AC engine with a rebuilt 4-AGE rebuilt version. sounds really nice, cheaper than an import version and it already has suspension and wheels I think. you could do that up a bit with cams and stuff.

Guest Dark Sky 33

Xeaon

full member

Registered: Oct 2002

Location:

Car:

Im also 17soon and will be getting my P's. Im looking at getting a non-turbo skyline. GTS4 R33 infact. Or GTS R32. Are non-turbo skylines really that bad? And would insurance be much cheaper than a turbo'ed skyline. If anyone who is 17,18 with has a non-turbo skyline let me know roughly how much their insurance cost that would be great. Thanks.

Yeah, im 18 and bought a n/a skyline dude, i looked all around for insurance as a turbo....and nobody will insure a turbo at my age, even as a second driver in my old mans name, they wont touch me. Im paying $700 p.a insurance for my 94 n/a......thats with agreed value of 17k, bodykit, rims ect ect,

Adam

Guest gtst88

just get a simple car to learn the basic and fundamentals of driving ..

i got a damn 1.8 twin cam lancer coupe(in my country) when i first got my driving license ..

sweeet though .. even though it didnt have much power .. its a good car to learn te basics ..

cheers dude !

good luck in getting your Ps ..

Guest Dark Sky 33

Xeaon,

The insurance is under HBF, in my fathers name.....the excess is $900 buks......very nice for a first car, this is my second car, my first car was a beetle :(..go the herby's, just dont hit anything, i never made any damage in my first car.....if your a responsible driver then u should be ok, its the irresponsible pricks who run into you without insurance themselves...just watch out for them

Originally posted by holdens_r_better

Is the mitsubishi lancer a good car sounds cheap to run and i like the evo body kits you can get

ahaha plz dont get a lancer. Umm is import still an opinion cuz u can import S13 for around 5K -> 10k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R12 has not been not available for....decades now. Propane is not a great replacement. (I mean, it's a great replacement, but it is a bit too flammable). R134a being the only way to go forward with an R12 system. The design pressures etc, are close enough to R12's to work. The ability to move heat around is close enough to R12's to work.
    • Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays  
    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
×
×
  • Create New...