Jump to content
SAU Community

Insurance Question

AlexR34

By AlexR34,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

AlexR34 Proficient

AlexR34

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Just have a quick question i did a vcheck on a vehicle im interested and this information came back in the accident section:

Write-off: ECONOMIC REPAIRABLE - PASSED WOVI

- Inspection Date: 15/06/2005

- Type: IMPACT DAMAGE

- State recorded: QUEENSLAND

What is a economic repariable - passed wovi lol because i dont really care if the vehicle had like it front bumper changed. So yeah let me know doods. If I should still be looking at buying this vehicle with that information.

Cheers,

Aleks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204845-insurance-question/
Share on other sites
HackerX Community Regular

HackerX

Posted
Posted

Written off because the repairs would have cost more than economically feasible. I.e. it could have been repaired, but it was cheaper for the insurance company to write the car off and replace it. The rough rule is > 1/2 the value of the car in one accident. Something like that. Easy enough to do on an import where parts have to come from Japan etc and are hard to find.

That's my best guess.

AlexR34 Proficient

AlexR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Written off because the repairs would have cost more than economically feasible. I.e. it could have been repaired, but it was cheaper for the insurance company to write the car off and replace it. The rough rule is > 1/2 the value of the car in one accident. Something like that. Easy enough to do on an import where parts have to come from Japan etc and are hard to find.

That's my best guess.

Crap thats alot of damage i shell steeeer away lol. And its not an import.

SmoothLine Grand Master

SmoothLine

Posted
Posted

To be a write off the value of damage has to exceed 70% of the cars insured value, some companies will repair up to close to full insured value... If it was 50% it would have been repaired in most cases. If you had to fork out the cash would you repair 70% of the car or pay 100% of value for a new one? Still saving 30% if repairing...

AlexR34 Proficient

AlexR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
To be a write off the value of damage has to exceed 70% of the cars insured value, some companies will repair up to close to full insured value... If it was 50% it would have been repaired in most cases. If you had to fork out the cash would you repair 70% of the car or pay 100% of value for a new one? Still saving 30% if repairing...

Good Point. I'm just staying away from this sale.

02_FNE Community Regular

02_FNE

Posted
Posted

hey id just say try and find out more on the details of repair.. because something to consider is that if it has been repaired and is now for sale you may find that it has been repaired with new parts therefor the car can almost be like new.. as eg. my uncle crashed his ss commy a few years ago and they initially said its going to be a write off but then decided to fix it and they literally replaced everything with new parts, so considering that his car at the time of accident had something like 70,000k on the clock having everything replaced with new bits basically gave him a new car..

anyways not saying its for sure but just something to consider.. obviously be very careful, but as is the same with any purchase of a used vehicle..

my 2c

Corey

AlexR34 Proficient

AlexR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
steer very clear..

remember that when you go to sell in a few years time it the potential buyers have access to this same information and you will have a tough time selling it

Thank you for pointing out the main reason why I care that it has the history.

  • 2 weeks later...
AlexR34 Proficient

AlexR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You can do it from the carsales website or from the vcheck site itself. You provide the vin and pay watever option you selected and it spits out the rest lol.

Here are the links for those interested:

https://www.autocheck.com.au/

The carsales link is being a douch bag but its the same thing anyways.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 84eighty
      So i brought a boat...

      By 84eighty · Posted

      I removed the head expecting to find broken and bent valves, but instead found number 1 at TDC and cylinder 2 at the top of its cylinder stroke as well, thought that was weird and proceeded to push cylinder 2 back down until it either bottomed out on its other piston half or the conrod either way we found the issue kind of,  now to remove the engine and see how the block looks, hopefully its just the top off a piston.  
    • robbo_rb180
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      A little more work this week.  Fitted astra power steering pump in the boot with a lowe fabrication bracket. Gave the pump a good clean, fitted Anderson plug and high pressure fitting. With the intercooler being flipped under rad support factory headlights weren't going to work. Ordered a set of origin battle lights, they arrived so got them test fitted. Will require some fiddling to fit nice but was an easy quick option for now. And today we pulled out the manual Rb gearbox and test fitted a ZF 8HP50. It will fit with some casting tabs cut off and small tap of the tunnel with a hammer. Pick up the adapter plate Wednesday so hopefully all bolted in Friday and measure for tailshaft which will be a 2 piece. Been doing a lot of ecu, pdm and tcu loom design so when comes to wiring it in a few weeks will all go smoothly.
    • GTSBoy
      Spotted on the street....

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, you've got a long list of experiences right there. I'd say you're on the right path.
×
×
  • Create New...