Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently using MT ET radials - good for preliminary runs but will require slicks.

What i need to know is in the heat treatments GTR they are running the same wall and tyre diameter front and rear but the widths differ. The rears are substantially wider than the front.

They look like Dunlop may be Hoosier . Any one know what make and specs of tyre will allow me to do this and also what rims would be suited?

As i have mentioned i currently have standard GTR32 rims withy MT Et radials but need info to run slicks .

Also, if you are using an adjustable torque split controller (like the HKS or even hydraulic one) wouldn't that negate the need for same diameter tyres? Are you also allowing for tyre growth on the rears?

Also, if you are using an adjustable torque split controller (like the HKS or even hydraulic one) wouldn't that negate the need for same diameter tyres? Are you also allowing for tyre growth on the rears?

Nah - centrifugal force - both front and rear - i would say same tyre or similar growth , may be minimally larger at the rear when spinning but that doesnt count.

looking into the slick side of things - not that easy to find out info.

My rims are mint GTR and the MT are new and haven't been on car yet . I would like to work with you on this but i firstly have to find out the price and availability of the Bogarts and Goodyears - any idea where to buy these from?

www.bogartracingwheels.com :P

what about weld wheels?

MT ET drag wheels are about 5.5 kg each in 15 x 8", but the Bogarts are the lightest I know of (4kg each) and are about $400+ each wheel

Dave,

You can get weld racing rims from the states for just over $1000 delivered for 15x8's and are available in a heap of offsets. I reckon some M/T 15x26x8.5's would be a good starting point and are readily available especially toward the end of the season as they have sales.

I have a question about the legalities of running a slick on an awd car as I know last year it wasnt allowed under andra rules but they made exceptions for certain cars. Can anyone tell me if that has been changed in this years andra rule book?

Dave,

You can get weld racing rims from the states for just over $1000 delivered for 15x8's and are available in a heap of offsets. I reckon some M/T 15x26x8.5's would be a good starting point and are readily available especially toward the end of the season as they have sales.

I have a question about the legalities of running a slick on an awd car as I know last year it wasnt allowed under andra rules but they made exceptions for certain cars. Can anyone tell me if that has been changed in this years andra rule book?

Have just had a look at the Weld site Smiley - the $1000 delivered from the states is not so bad realy? we will have to have a good look at the offsets particularly on the front as i want to have her as low as possible but now with the ET's that i have -if i go any lower my uper arm will rub. Once she is back from the paint shop i will have to address this on a closer level.

May be i should just stick to what i have at this stage and in the interim check the ANDRA status?

I have a set of 5 stud 15x8 weld pro stars here with a 4.5" back space with some 15x26x8.5 M/T slicks you can try on to see whats going to fit.

That sounds good Smiley - didnt know you had those? Oh well that turned out well , catch up with you over the week end.

  • 3 months later...
The tyre and rim thing is resolved -thanks for all your input.

Fortunately scored - Advan rims and 10'" slicks - tyres not suitable for use but good for set up. A simple die grind over the calipers and on they went. These were off the Tomei Drag car that Hi octane had - i consider my self lucky and thanks to Mark Jacobson from Godzila racing.

Any one know where to attain extra long wheel studs and open light wieght nuts??post-10298-1212224284_thumb.jpgpost-10298-1212224052_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...