Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb25 Vs. R34 Rb25


old240sx
 Share

Recommended Posts

I recently bought a s13 and have been wanting to do a 25neo swap. I live in the us so neo motors are a rarity and the only place I can find them are from those sketchy canadians up north. And from them who knows what your gonna get. I can find r33 25's all day even in the states for a little extra but I dont know the potential I would be missing out on. I've heard a lot of good things about the neo besides the price of clutches and was wondering your thoughts. From what I here if anyone would know about these motors it would be you guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've read they also have solid lifters and the vvt as apposed to the r33's but I was wondering if any body has pushed them and if they really mad more reliable power than the r33's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The NEO tends to make more power for the same amount of mods better breathing due to head package). They are both as reliable as each other but the Neos' tend to have lower mileage which helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also consider the availability of aftermarket turbo kits and ECU's (ie Power FC). Mods for the 33 are more readily available and cheaper than for the 34. NB: PFC are discontinued for RB25's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, for starters, I'm pretty sure the NEO's are fitted with RB26 rods from the factory so that would make them stronger.

They are also 9.3:1 Compression as opposed to the 9:1 compression of the R33 RB25

interesting, can anyone back this up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also consider the availability of aftermarket turbo kits and ECU's (ie Power FC). Mods for the 33 are more readily available and cheaper than for the 34. NB: PFC are discontinued for RB25's

turbo kits from R33 fit perfect on R34, i do it all the time with the trust kits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

doesn't the neo have both intake and exhaust NVCS?

also standard the NEO has smaller injectors than r33?

and a slightly better stock turbo...

both are good standard but the NEO would be the better choice because they're are generally newer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bloody net dropping out!!!!!

Here we go, I'll retype again...

NVCS is only on one cam.

They run narrow body injectors

Stock turbo is weaker when boosted due to nylon comp wheel, ceramic exhaust wheel like r33

Mate Ben has R34 GT-T

Stock engine

tomei poncams 260

800cc inj

044

fuel reg

z32

power fc

front mount

plazma man plenum

T04Z

363RWKW @22 psi Z32 starting to max out.

He has a built RB30 bottom end to swap in due to nos system he intends to use with setup, no bull.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The way I look at it is that it makes a bit more grunt in factory trim so that can't be a bad thing . The electronics running it are a bit more advanced so if you can get control of those then its tighter controls IMO .

I think the non hydraulic buckets are a bonus and will open up your choice of cam profiles . If you really want to I'm sure there are ways to get larger injectors into them .

Also don't write off RB26's if you can get them for reasonable money , a few people have used those in the US .

Further O/T . If I was over there I'd be doing a killer KA24DE-T because there are so many parts available for them and they are std (DE) in a USDM S14 anyway . I guess its a case of how much your prepared to pay to be different . I don't remember the exact cc figures for both KA24 and RB25 but there's probably only 100cc's in it if that .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Further O/T . If I was over there I'd be doing a killer KA24DE-T because there are so many parts available for them and they are std (DE) in a USDM S14 anyway . I guess its a case of how much your prepared to pay to be different . I don't remember the exact cc figures for both KA24 and RB25 but there's probably only 100cc's in it if that .

And an extra 2 cylinders bobbing away in the RB? Surley that counts for something?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
    • I installed it all myself,  It was really easy to install.  I got a professional to do the degas/gas.
×
×
  • Create New...