Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

I been searching like all hell for info on braided oil and water lines for my turbo upgrade.

I just purchased two Garrett 2860R-5's and in the process of upgrading i want to do all braided lines while im at it.

The engine is on the stand atm so its not a big issue to get the lengths etc right.

Have any of you done braided lines on a low mount turbo upgrade?

Where do i get the threaded flange to the block? and the Threaded flange to the oil drain on the turbo?

Sorry if this has already been covered in million posts but i honestly searched and didnt find much.

advice on who to go to, what to get, how much you paid would be awesome.

cheers

Racespec do the threaded oil drain adapters, the rest you just use off the shelf speedflow, proflow, russell, earls fittings etc

To me its not worth the effort as ive NEVER had isuses withthe factory gear. Once i move the turbos from factory position i always make my own lines up though.

hey sorry cant help about braided lines, but i have just purchased also those turbos, running stock internals, 770cc injectors, nismo fuel pump, elctronic boostcontroller, power fc, pod filters, cam gears, dump pipes, exhaust etc, etc....just interested what power figure you are aiming for etc.......cheers robbie

Pretty sure the easiest would be to call Pirtek or Enzed. They'll send a van around and make up custom lines for you on the spot.

Not sure about the cost though!

hey sorry cant help about braided lines, but i have just purchased also those turbos, running stock internals, 770cc injectors, nismo fuel pump, elctronic boostcontroller, power fc, pod filters, cam gears, dump pipes, exhaust etc, etc....just interested what power figure you are aiming for etc.......cheers robbie

hey mate Ive just covered a thred on these turbos to see if anyone knew wot sorta KW I would get I have very simular mods to and was told bout 300-325kw @ 16-17psi

Edited by boosted_32

your standard lines will bolt up to these turbos no problems, just need the GT series oil drains, No worth spending bout $500 on braided water and oil lines + fittings if the stock ones work just as good

Pretty sure the easiest would be to call Pirtek or Enzed. They'll send a van around and make up custom lines for you on the spot.

Not sure about the cost though!

PIRTEK can get pretty expensive if you get them to come out to you, if you can measure them up yourself and go to the pirtek shop near you and get the lines made up there, will save you a bucket load of cash. we use them at work and we used to get them to come out to us, you easily save a couple of hundred by measuring yourself

good luck

So you don't think its worth getting braided lines to the turbos while I'm at it? just leave the stock lines?

The money isnt really the issue, i was just after reliability more then anything. You say you NEVER have problems with the stock lines etc then i guess there is no need to upgrade?

Robbie, in regards to power i aim between 300-400 RWKW. Engine is still on the stand and much work left to be done so i have to wait and see what it produces down the track.

So you don't think its worth getting braided lines to the turbos while I'm at it? just leave the stock lines?

The money isnt really the issue, i was just after reliability more then anything. You say you NEVER have problems with the stock lines etc then i guess there is no need to upgrade?

Robbie, in regards to power i aim between 300-400 RWKW. Engine is still on the stand and much work left to be done so i have to wait and see what it produces down the track.

hey cool thanks, just a bit worried, my tuner is aiming for about 380kwaw (rolling dyno), with standard internals, 170ks on the engine, hes a real well known tuner, i think from reading all the feedback i should be aiming for about 320

Edited by donkey
hey mate Ive just covered a thred on these turbos to see if anyone knew wot sorta KW I would get I have very simular mods to and was told bout 300-325kw @ 16-17psi

oh cool thanks alot

yep , like trent said, we are also running the standard oil/water lines, & we have had only one failure but that was due to us mis handling an oil pipe and we cracked it.

never ever been an issue( just make sure you look after them)

you'll find basically everyone running low mounts is using the factory lines

nothing wrong with them

And for good reason. The speedflow rubber/stainless steel re-enforced braided hose detoriates with the heat. It will last a little while but in time the rubber hardens then it will begin to sweat coolant and finally leak. The factory ones are far more reliable than any custom or after-market plumbing. Teflon braided is the only alternative that will handle the heat.

i've used teflon 200 series braided line but only because i've used an RB30 block and the height difference makes using the stock stuff impractical. it was an abosolute pain in the a$$ doing it in the car.

absolutely use the stock lines if you can, there is some very remote risk that they can crack from vibration but make sure you use all of the the stock bits and this simply shouldn't happen. if you want to be really safe, get new lines from nissan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...