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nisspeed bulit my mates motor and he is running 30 psi through it.

Rhemac they do alot of engine work for tillbrooks.

There are quite a few more that i can not think of right now, but speak to cubes, black32 or sky30 as they all have well built rb30 motors.

Lewis Enignes is building my RB30/26det drifter. Ported head, h-beam rods, jun crank collar, the works. Were looking for 350rwkw's to start with then once I get a better oil pump well be able to crank it up some more.

Darren is building a couple of RB30's at the moment so nows a good time to contact him about it.

8391 6125,

Cheers,

Daniel

(website in my sig)

Edited by =premo=
yea lewis, if not lewis, go willal racing, tested and prooven.

i had my forged engine done by Willall racing and they did a great job but im sorry but willall racing dont build motors anymore because Peter hall their skyline engine guy left a while ago, even still they use Nisspeed 2 do all the their machining of the block n head etc so i would go there and have it done, then they take it and get it tuned at Morpowa which are also great tuners coz they are next door, but Willall still tunes cars by Martin

i had my forged engine done by Willall racing and they did a great job but im sorry but willall racing dont build motors anymore because Peter hall their skyline engine guy left a while ago, even still they use Nisspeed 2 do all the their machining of the block n head etc so i would go there and have it done, then they take it and get it tuned at Morpowa which are also great tuners coz they are next door, but Willall still tunes cars by Martin

Known Pete Hall for over 20 years from Adelaide Engine days and he really knows his stuff........he's at Outlaw Speed Shop now.

Known Pete Hall for over 20 years from Adelaide Engine days and he really knows his stuff........he's at Outlaw Speed Shop now.

yeah peter is a great guy and was very helpful and know's wat he's talking about wether its skylines or gen 3 v8's

im thinking of getting chris milton at milton engineering to do mine...recommended highly by a mates dad who builds/restores ferraris etc. Take a look at their website and give them a bell to see what their like for yourself.

im thinking of getting chris milton at milton engineering to do mine...recommended highly by a mates dad who builds/restores ferraris etc. Take a look at their website and give them a bell to see what their like for yourself.

Yeh Chris is alright, BUT our saloon car has more grunt down a straight line than his.......LOL and my mates old man built the engine!!

I think Tilbrooks old engine builder(don't mistake that with that tool that used to dyno there back in the day) went to JMS to work for a while and is now at Wheelworx!! You could try and see if Joe wants to get him to build you a motor, not sure if they are doing that there or not, I know they have macines to do it!!

im thinking of getting chris milton at milton engineering to do mine...recommended highly by a mates dad who builds/restores ferraris etc. Take a look at their website and give them a bell to see what their like for yourself.

My experience is otherwise.

35pounds seat pressure for a performance turbo 24v nissan motor is apparently really really good. NOT :)

Prior to that they set it up so it was floating all over the joint. 15pounds seat; floated from day one.

umm 70pounds is where u want it. They looked at me with a shocked face.

I've had the head off 3 times to sort out the lack of seat pressure that they should have been able to sort from day one.

Speak to Nisspeed, Lewis or Adelaide engines if you want some one to build your motor with experience under their belt.

My experience is otherwise.

35pounds seat pressure for a performance turbo 24v nissan motor is apparently really really good. NOT ;)

Prior to that they set it up so it was floating all over the joint. 15pounds seat; floated from day one.

umm 70pounds is where u want it. They looked at me with a shocked face.

I've had the head off 3 times to sort out the lack of seat pressure that they should have been able to sort from day one.

Speak to Nisspeed, Lewis or Adelaide engines if you want some one to build your motor with experience under their belt.

Bit of a catch 22 situation. My experience with reconditioning heads is that you keep your seat pressures to a minimum unless your running welltite inserts (or similar). Obviously the higher the revving the higher the seat pressure you'll need but some reconditioners have gone overboard with seat pressures in alloy heads and pounded the seats into the head to the point were they have to be removed and have your head welded. Thus said 15 pounds on an 8000rpm motor will just float the valves.

Thats exactly it SLED, minimum seat pressure that works. Which comes down to experience what does.

The RB26 heads run 50lbs seat pressure standard; the rb25 runs very close to that but uses the heavier hydraulic lifters. As you would know heavier valve train requires more seat/open pressure to control the valves.

Mine being setup so loose because they really didn't have any experience with the rb25 head has cost me a lot of money and what really got up my nose is when I sent it back to be fixed up I was charged quite a lot.

Such is life; given time they will get the know how of what does and doesn't work with the rb25 heads.

Typically its known that ~70lbs of seat pressure with the hydraulic rb25 head works very well.

R32Abuser; if you do get a motor built up by them ensure they restrict the oil delivered to the head.

Without a dry sump setup its really the only way to control the oil being dumped in the head and filling your catch can under constant high rpm as without a decent vac setup the oil cannot return to the sump quick enough.

I run a single 1.5mm up front and blocked rear. Works extremely well.

Don't get me wrong Miltons do awesome work; its just a slight lack of experience with one motor type that left me a little unstuck. They are getting in to the drift scene so no doubt a lot of R&D will be done.

In saying all that there is ALWAYS some one who's had a bad run with a workshop from time to time. ;)

The experience wasn't bad just the outcome which has been frustrating when I had to go else where to seek advice and get the problem finally rectified.

That sucks with the issues you had Cubes, you would think they would have had enough experience in that area.

I never really noticed too many probs with too much oil upstairs until I got my mods done and now it seems to be an issue. I've got to organize an air/oil separator.....too many junk catch cans out there unfortunately and I dont know which way to go at the moment.

Yeah I guess its part of modifying; nothing ever goes smoothly. ;)

The biggest worry with dumping oil in the head is if you track the car. Constant high rpm and the oil isn't able to return to the sump quick enough which ultimately results in oil surge. A lot of the blokes get around it by over filling the sump.

Mine was extremely bad as I have close to 90psi over ~4000rpm ish. after a hard pull on the rollers I could see the oil puddling with the lobes slightly poking out the top of the oil. Restricted the oil down and its now spot on.

I run 2 catch cans one either side down low as its neater than having big hoses winding through the engine bay.

Tomei sell oil restrictors but its a pain in the arse pulling the head off for a $5 part.

---

Kisin and R32Abuser, it may be worth having a chat to Sean at Boostworx. They have tuned and built a few rb30det's; they also get work done by Jason @ Nisspeed.

Sean is well aware of the oiling issues and has had quite a lot done alot of fiddling to get it right.

Yeah I guess its part of modifying; nothing ever goes smoothly. :)

The biggest worry with dumping oil in the head is if you track the car. Constant high rpm and the oil isn't able to return to the sump quick enough which ultimately results in oil surge. A lot of the blokes get around it by over filling the sump.

Mine was extremely bad as I have close to 90psi over ~4000rpm ish. after a hard pull on the rollers I could see the oil puddling with the lobes slightly poking out the top of the oil. Restricted the oil down and its now spot on.

I run 2 catch cans one either side down low as its neater than having big hoses winding through the engine bay.

Tomei sell oil restrictors but its a pain in the arse pulling the head off for a $5 part.

---

Kisin and R32Abuser, it may be worth having a chat to Sean at Boostworx. They have tuned and built a few rb30det's; they also get work done by Jason @ Nisspeed.

Sean is well aware of the oiling issues and has had quite a lot done alot of fiddling to get it right.

Appreciate the advice :thumbsup:

on my holden v8 speedway motors we used to drill a hole under the valley cover into the timing chain area for the oil to drain back thru and tap into the back of the heads and put a return line back to the sump .

i would have expected somelike like miltons to be more clued up than to make seat presure mistakes .

he has been around a long time i used to race agaisnt him at speedway yrs ago

Yeah I guess its part of modifying; nothing ever goes smoothly. :(

The biggest worry with dumping oil in the head is if you track the car. Constant high rpm and the oil isn't able to return to the sump quick enough which ultimately results in oil surge. A lot of the blokes get around it by over filling the sump.

Yeh tell me about it...... In our IPRA car we've chucked a 3SGTE in a RA40 Celica, 3S came out of a Mr2, so in the rear and FWD specs to front founted RWD car, and those engines have a mad lean on them in the Mr2, and we obviously had to straighten it up, Alot of people have had issues with this, as we did early on!!

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