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What Oils/oil Filter

mr.33

By mr.33,
in General Maintenance

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WET-25T Collaborator

WET-25T

Posted
Posted

Hey,

As everyone says "search and you shall find" but in a ruder tone. All this info has been covered its just a matter of finding it. Anyways i did mine about a week or 2 ago and it went like this:

Oil: Motul 4100 turbolight 10W/40, 5L $49.99 @ autobarn.

Oil filter: Ryco Z145 $15.80 @ autobarn (i think i got 10% off).

As for the filter you can get a nissan genuine filter, $15 i think.

After alot of research thats what i ended up using and in future will use the motul oil and genuine nissan filter. Theres no point in using motul 300v unless your heading for the tracks.

Incase your going to ask i bought genuine coolant from nissan and bought spark plugs and a fuel filter from autobarn so if you want to know the numbers for them let me know.

PHILR34GTT Newbie

PHILR34GTT

Posted
Posted

CASTROL EDGE 10w60 as recomended to me by a Drift Mechanic I run it in my RB25DET R34 last couple off services and used to always in my old S14A Silvia SR20DET try to stick to a genuine Nissan oil filter if you can!!!! Also my girlfriend has a DC5 Type R Integra had some V-Tec trouble changed the oil with this and fixed it.

hojak Proficient

hojak

Posted
Posted
Also my girlfriend has a DC5 Type R Integra

Very nice, them dc5s are hot! Anyways back to the original post, what was also covered was, any decent full synthetic will do if ur gonna drop the oil every 5000kms.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted (edited)
CASTROL EDGE 10w60 as recomended to me by a Drift Mechanic I run it in my RB25DET R34 last couple off services and used to always in my old S14A Silvia SR20DET try to stick to a genuine Nissan oil filter if you can!!!! Also my girlfriend has a DC5 Type R Integra had some V-Tec trouble changed the oil with this and fixed it.

Usually you only have VTEC trouble when the oil gets low :)

Seems to me like the old oil/filter combo comes down to personal preference. What works for you is fine.

Iv always used Magnatec in my cars, previous DC2 Type R, regularly tracked. And i never had any problems of pressure loss due to heat etc etc. So i continue to use it in my R33 GTS25t. So far so good. I read so many things bout people saying it is shit, but its always what the person has "heard" or "read". Never actually had any hard evidence of it being shit. Haha

Regular 5000km changes of oil.filter = :D

Edited by gotRICE?
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted (edited)

Preferbley find an oil that works well and stick to it.

I had to find an oil that as not too think / too thin.

I have tried Martini Full Synthetic 10W 40 (Bit too thin and burned off too easily) / Valvaline 20W 50 (TOO THICK!!... no go) Shell Helex 15W 50, OK but in the long run no good.

Final Mobil Sythetic S 10W 40 which was a semi sythetic oil and the car runs very smooth.

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted

A 10w-60 is good for the track but to thick for street driven cars you should be looking at a 10w-40 or lower.

Any synthetic - Motul, Redline, Royal purple, Mobil 1, Castrol, Penrite.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

i use the nw DRIFT oil filters, $19 magnet, nut on end for easy removal etc.. best filter around.

oh never use penrite sin stuff sucks in rb's.... used in customer cars when they supplied it excessive pressure drop and excess noise after 2000kms when other oils are fine, i stick to redline 10w40 and motul 10w-40 300v

^^^ 3/4 sounds right.

chak8080 Collaborator

chak8080

Posted
Posted
i use the nw DRIFT oil filters, $19 magnet, nut on end for easy removal etc.. best filter around.

oh never use penrite sin stuff sucks in rb's.... used in customer cars when they supplied it excessive pressure drop and excess noise after 2000kms when other oils are fine, i stick to redline 10w40 and motul 10w-40 300v

^^^ 3/4 sounds right.

Thanks, I'll try it out this weekend.

br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted

Ryco Z145a Filters. ~10$

Mobil 1 5w-50w fully syn. ~68$

Usually dont need to buy the expensive filters as most likely u will change them every 5000kms. But if u want to keep them longer then go for it :happy:

chak8080 Collaborator

chak8080

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was running Apexi UFO's (~$15-$20 USD) on my ER34 RB25DET(Neo) and BCNR33 RB26DETT. Now I have these Sard Sports Mag+ Filters SMF00(~$15-$20 USD). Hopefully they'll fit and workout alright.

Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 15w-50 Extended Performance $8 USD a liter.

Edited by chak8080
mark77s Rookie

mark77s

Posted
Posted

Running German Castrol 5w-40 in an R32 GTR, filter oem

Still trying to figure out why people use a 10-20w in thier cars unless your racing? The most engine damage is done starting the engine cold the lower the first digit the better. A 10w oil is thicker at startup compared to a 0w or 5w. No oil gives total lubrication when cold but hence the oil companies are leaning towards lower first digit oils now e.g 0w. The second number is the viscosity of the oil at operating temps, 40 is good for skylines unless racing in hot conditions. Also its better to use an API rating of SL or SM rather than SJ which is stated in the oem manual as the SL and SM are a better oil using the latest technology and wernt around when SJ was popular. You will get better results in regards to maximum cam plus lifter wear, sludge build up, high temperature volatility amongst alot of other things with an API rating of SL or SM over SJ. SM should be better than SL

Motor oil that is labeled for RACING ONLY is not usable for every day driving. Often these have more additives that are toxic to your catalytic converters and the environment. These oils generally do not have detergents. Use these oils if you plan on taking your engine apart and cleaning it every few weeks

This site is very helpul explaining oils

http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html

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