Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday just wanting to know what rear brake upgrades can i do? will s13 calipers bolt up and is the s13 brakes twin pot or single pot at the rear? if they are single pot is there like a valve or something i can get for the brake lines if i have twin pots at the front?? and when doing a manual conversion is there anyway i can use a manual gearbox mount and cross member and that bolt straight up???

cheers paul :no:

Edited by paulmac

when looking at 2pot rear calipars you need to think of 2 things, Aus r31 uses a cable hand brake and the calipar spacing bracket ie: can i mounts the calipars on the 31 bracket...

if you remove the rear drive shafts on an aus 31 the calipar mounting bracket comes off too so you could get a new one made to fit both the diff houseing and the new calipars...

what calipars to use i don't know, if you look at later mode NA skylines they use a very similar looking rear calipar, may be look into these to see if any model offer a larger or even 2 pot calipar. most turbo models use the 2 pot without the same hand brake set up.

when doing a manual conversion you need the tail shaft and gear box x-member from a manual, mounting for the x-member is different too, need to drill 2 x holes through the floor and add 2 x bolts so you can use all 4 x holes on the x-member.

are you talking aus r31 or imported.. imports are easy as they have a drum handbrake

aus however have an intergrated handbrake and normal brake caliper, which no brakes you would want to use have this setup. if its not a street car (you dont need a cable handbrake) then VS commodore calipers fit, or make up some of your own brackets to fit pretty much anything (such as r32 gtr rears)

are you talking aus r31 or imported.. imports are easy as they have a drum handbrake

aus however have an intergrated handbrake and normal brake caliper, which no brakes you would want to use have this setup. if its not a street car (you dont need a cable handbrake) then VS commodore calipers fit, or make up some of your own brackets to fit pretty much anything (such as r32 gtr rears)

yeah its an aust delivered 31 so there arent any type of brakes that would be a good upgrade? is there some sort of valve or something i can use when i do the front brake upgrade which will prob be 32 brakes just so that the backs dont lock up

yeah its an aust delivered 31 so there arent any type of brakes that would be a good upgrade? is there some sort of valve or something i can use when i do the front brake upgrade which will prob be 32 brakes just so that the backs dont lock up

with the aus r31 front struts you can't run the larger nissan callipers because they use a 100mm mounting spacing and the r31 has 90mm spacing, you'd have to get some import/ gts front struts with separate hub/rotor set up. even just the import/gts set up is a great improvement over the standard r31 front brake set up.

a mate of mine runs an rb30et set up with over 200+rwkw potential in his aus r31 and with the import front brake set up the engineer said "no problems turn the boost up".....

with the aus r31 front struts you can't run the larger nissan callipers because they use a 100mm mounting spacing and the r31 has 90mm spacing, you'd have to get some import/ gts front struts with separate hub/rotor set up. even just the import/gts set up is a great improvement over the standard r31 front brake set up.

a mate of mine runs an rb30et set up with over 200+rwkw potential in his aus r31 and with the import front brake set up the engineer said "no problems turn the boost up".....

yeah i know i will be doing the s13 coilover conversion but i didnt really wanna change the control arm, hubs and tie rods ends then get to rear and not be able to convert the back brakes to a better kind that wont lock up with 2 pots on the front if there is some sort of valve or something i can use to equalize pressure more i'd use that and some good pads and drill and slot the 31 rotors but i don't wanna do that if there is an option of changing the rear brakes to 2 pot calipers so im just sussing all my options before i get into it

cheers anyway mate

gts2015-1.jpg

did this is my GTS2 about 2 months ago..

you can use the r31 LCA but not the hubs, tie rod ends are an iffy thing, a few people on the r31 forum have kept them but you have to wind them all the way out leaving like 4-5 threads, not 100% safe.

i used the s-13 tie rod ends with these extender arm/adaptors..

yeah my plan was to use the s13 tie rod ends and s13 hubs and what not, just my main concern was when i put 32 brakes on the front what the deal is gonna be with my back's and i just figured the backs being single pot and 32 front brakes being twin pot i'd suspect when i brake that the rears will lock up before the front start to actually work at higher speeds

i'm running the r32 4-pots on the front and r31 rears and have noticed no difference in braking other than the stopping power i now have.....

i've never heard of the rear r31 brakes locking when running 4 pots are on the front from anyone on the r31 forum, and quite a few of the QLD members do a bit of track work.

doing the fronts is a great upgrade for the r31... enjoy...

i'd be more thinking about what pads and fluid to use..

You can use R31 LCA's with S13 coilovers, and you dont have to touch the tie rods at all. Using S13 LCA's you get SFA threads on, as said before. Thought I might have an issue with the balljoint but not so.

I know this as Ive just done it.

Most people use S13 LCA's to gain track, I did that with my wheels instead (18 x 9 -10, and yes they fit)

You CANNOT use S13 tie rod ends as they have a different pitch on the thread.

I used the following...

S13 Silk Road Section RMA-8 10kg/8kgcoilovers

S13 Hub/Knuckle/Stub axle

R31 LCA

R31 rack/tie rods/tie rod ends

R32 GTS-T pot callipers

R33 GTS non turbo 4 stud rotors

R31 brake lines

S13 caliper banjo bolts.

Whiteline sway bar and super pro link bushes

3rds Productions Rose Jointed Adj. Castor Arms

and it all bolted straight together. No modding needed whatsoever.

image024nj0.jpg

Was absolutley stoked with the outcome, hope this helps.

Im also using VS commodore calipers on the rear (Hydraulic handbrake), and havent had any bias problems at all. Havent heard of people with Stock 31 calipers having issues either. Nothing to worry about there.

If it's a real concern for you though (And I see it as completely unnecessary) you can add a brake bias controller. Not needed though.

Hope all this helps you somewhat.

Edited by R31 drift pig
You can use R31 LCA's with S13 coilovers, and you dont have to touch the tie rods at all. Using S13 LCA's you get SFA threads on, as said before. Thought I might have an issue with the balljoint but not so.

the s-13 LCA are 10mm longer than the r31 LCA, i knew there was something missing in my discription that caused the tie rod issue, using the s-13 LCA also adds chamber which is good but just a little over the top

any excuse to put up a pic hehehehe

stuff358.jpg

i'm most likely going to go back to the r31 LCA and if i want chamber i'll use the adj strut tops. plus i can lower the car abit if the rims are sitting in by the 10mm at the front.

yeah, S13 LCA adds 1.5 degrees fixed camber.

Wasnt needed in my case as coilovers have adj. camber tops and elongated kingpins.

For shits and giggles we set my car at like 8 deg camber. now back down to a sensible 2.5 or so (Woot for drifter eye alignments LOL)

Another thing is that S13 LCA's are expensive (Well, compared to 31 arms which are cheap as chips), and are more sort after.

BTW, LOVE those CR KAI's.... How did you do the rear 5 stud? EA falcon axles?

Considered doing that and Attain 5 stud S13 hubs, but got custom made 4 stud wheels instead. Worked out a lot cheaper and got the offsets and widths I wanted without spacers.

Am considering Work XD9's in white though, as Work now make a 18 x 10 +18 in 4 stud! (Need to run a $15mm bolt on though to have the same offsets I have now though)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...