Serious Brakes

[Stock GTR]

Come on boys, lets talk about some serious brake upgrades. Not the ones you buy at justjap, something to make our eyeballs pop out.

[sh@un]

Mebe look at adapting a set from a Bentley Continental GT?

They are AWD cars too, and have 8 pistons front calipers with 420mm discs. If it works well with 2350kg to stop, a 33 GT-R should be a snack

lol

[Stock GTR]

yeah funny, but come on. What else is out there beside harrops.

[sh@un]

Alcon, GREX, AP Racing, Tarox

Anything bigger than 355mm and 6-piston (the GREX kit) is gunna sting the wallet fairly hard

Truth be told- It'd take a VERY hard driven track-focused GT-R to trouble that sort of setup with good lines/pads/fluid on Oz tracks anyway. Street tyres will die before the brakes will.

[Stock GTR]

Money is not that much of an object. I expect to budget between 5 and 10 for a full track setup. Just need to sort out my suspension and get some semi slick rubber.

[badkarma85]

Go with ENDLESS BBK since it suits your budget.. Will probably cost around 9k

Alternatively, AP Racing or Stop-Tech are one of the best.

[JAS-25T]

Money is not that much of an object. I expect to budget between 5 and 10 for a full track setup. Just need to sort out my suspension and get some semi slick rubber.

You will easily spend that on all of the above mentioned setup's

[TTT]

Just to confirm..

you have $5K - $10K just for brakes right?

[badkarma85]

Just to confirm..

you have $5K - $10K just for brakes right?

Online, everyone is an e-millionaire.

[djr81]

First stop should be the endless number of brake threads, but anyway.

You need to think about what you need first up. How much retardation for how long?

Secondly as for brand names it is not just callipers it is rotor availability, pad choice, parts backup & product quality as well.

Thirdly make sure you have rim clearance & brake balance.

Fourthly do you really need to upgrade the rears as it will be of the order of $4k for not much gain.

Fifth, brand names:

Endless are good & cheap.

AP are very good and not cheap.

Brembo (not the poverty pack shit on the Nissans) are now the same company as AP. The make some very good callipers, just expensive.

Alcon are good & reasonable value in large sizes.

Not worth bothering with (IMHO) are GReddy, Wilwood, Project Mu, Stoptech as they don't fit all the categories in item 2.

Lastly using ex production parts (Ex Porsche callipers) can be a cheap way of getting the job done.

Best bet is either go for something like an Endless kit or go and see someone like Racebrakes who know their sh!t.

[N1GTR]

Mmm ill keep an eye on this thread

[TTT]

surely a search in the Suspension/braking and tyres section will give you proper advice from people who actually race their cars.

Sydneykid, Duncan, Roy and a few others are regulars.

saying "when brembo's are just not enough" means nothing.

especially considering you have not stated anything about your car's current mods/power.

where you have raced.

what brakes you have now (Assume Brembo's)

why are they not enough.. fade? soft pedal?

got any ducting?

or even what car you actually have.

which circuits did it fail you?

after how many laps?

Edited February 8, 2008 by GTST

[NISZILA]

Some one on here has go some huge AMG brakes that he adapted to fit his skyline. Looks hot as

[Roy]

I love brakes....but i find it strange how ppl will run carbon bonnets to save a few kgs, remove seats to save a few kilograms...but then go and throw 20kgs of brake rotors at their cars leaving their cars massively over braked.

Just be sure to do your homework, like all things in life big is not always better, often worse. If ytour car is for supersprints then you really need to look carefully at your setup as no point if the brakes take 3 laps to get up to temperature and you are only doing 4 lap sprints...which because of your aggressive suspension settings ensure they tyres are up to temp quickly halfway through your 2nd lap.

Also, with your big brakes, if they are set up for track work then you may find that the pads never really get andy heat into them on the street, meaning the pad is outside its usual operating temperature meaning they are aggressive on rotors

[N1GTR]

Hopefully this thread will end up with some useful info, for example, some info on good rear brake solutions for those of us that have already done the fronts

[TTT]

Roy - You've changed your tune...

I remember a thread where you were arguing against those exact point with Gary.

yes no?

[Merli]

in.

[N1GTR]

In? In for what?

[Roy]

Roy - You've changed your tune...

I remember a thread where you were arguing against those exact point with Gary.

yes no?

I wouldnt have been arguing against SK, most likely he was saying that the near std brakes are able to do the job on IP GTRs and his usual good advice of improving grip and corner speed and you font need brakes. <My usual reply to that is many of the GTRs i see are 1600kgs with over 600hp on semi slicks. So they have more then race car weight, less the race car grip, but race car power...so bigger brakes are a given. Even then, you c an probably get away with 355, definitely 365mm rotors...although you can go 376 or 380mm which is where i think you have to be sure they are suitable for what you shall be doing with the car.

My warning came as the original post seemed to be of the tune....go huge because they are cool and obviuosly better. Thats my usual line But for most of us not really warranted...

Again, a rehas of a very old postm but always a good read for those that are thinking about brakes and have not done a lot of reading or have been given bad advice in the past

Something i posted a while ago that came to mind again today whilst dribbling propoganda with another forum goer...

Car & Driver did a test a few years ago testing StopTechs brake kits against some more recognised names, showing similar results.

Test Car was a WRX (US Spec which only uses two piston sliding caliper, not as good as Nissan 4 spot or later Model WRX 4 pots)

So tested kits were, std car, std car with upgraded pads and fluid, Brembo F50 Kit, Brembo Lotus Kit (Similar to as fitted to GTRs, 44/38mm pistons), Stoptech it and Prodrive Kit (Alcon)

Stopping Distances 70mph - 0 , 3 Stop

Brembo F50;_____________ 185 / 183 (Average / Best)

Brembo Lotus; ______________ 200 / 196

Prodrive; __________________ 198 / 194

StopTech;__________________ 187 / 186

Stock; ____________________ 205 / 196

Stck with pads and fluid; ____187 / 184

The above figures are all in feet, one stop difference between pad and fluid upgrade to crappy sliding caliper brake setup and massive Brembos is 1 ft...lol 30cms:( And over 3 stops the average is 2 ft...lol 60cms:)

So you can see the one stop max of the upgraded pads and fluid is damn good when you consider the $$$ to % difference.

Stopping Distances 100mph - 0 , 25 Stop

Brembo F50; _____________ 299 / 288 (Average / Best)

Brembo Lotus; ______________305 / 294

Prodrive; __________________ 308 / 295

StopTech;__________________ 297 / 290

Stock;_____________________ 340/317

Stck with pads and fluid;_____316/299

Not the world of difference you would be led to believe by the "you need 6pot caliper 343mm rotor crowd."

Specs of the kits:

Rotor Weight (pounds) Size in inches (diam / thk)

Brembo F50;.................15.8......................... .13.1 / 1.3

Brembo Lotus;..............12.9.......................... 12.9 / 1.1

Prodrive;......................16.5...........................13.0 / 1.1

StopTech;...................13.9..........................12.9 / 1.1

Stock;.................. ......14.2..........................11.6 / 0.9

Caliper Weight , Piston Size, (mm)

Brembo F50;..........8.6 pounds...........40 / 44, Leading / Trailing

Brembo Lotus;.......6.8.......................36 / 40

Prodrive;...............9.1..................... 34.9 / 41.3

StopTech;.............9.3.....................36 / 40

Stock;.................10.8.................. .43 / 43

...and COST!!!

Brembo F50;.......................US$2,995

Brembo Lotus;.....................US$2,595

Prodrive;.............................US$1,999

StopTech;...........................US$1,695

Stock with pads & fluid;....... US$130

And remember thet US Spec cars dont get the same 4 pot calipers that WRX get in Aus. And the aftermarket setups have much bigger rotors then the std WRX setup.

So would expect better performance from OZ Spec WRX or Nissan 4pot calipers with pads and fluid.

[Liquidity]

Yeah but i'd like to see those stopping distance figures, in a "best of 3".

If you did three massive "up to 150 kph - back to 0" stops, in a row, downhill to make it even harder, you'd start to see much bigger differences, i think.

For the street though, no doubting its all a bit of wank