Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys looking to get some lmgt4s for my r33 gtst but just need to know what width front and back and what offset front and back I should be getting.

I thought I'd jump queue and go straight here instead of cosmetic section. You guys know what your talking about so let rip :banana:

It's running on the stock breaks and I'm looking at 18" rims.

Thanks guys! :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205063-wheelios/
Share on other sites

Are the 18's going to be that big of a problem?

No they won't. I bought these.... Nismo LMGT4's

Front: 18x8.5 (+30)

Rear: 18x9.5 (+38)

In terms of tyres I put 235's on the front and 255's on the back. I've lowered my car a little and I had minor scrubbing on the front and back. Fixed the back with very little guard lipping and fixed the front 90% by raising just a tad (still lower than stock). The fronts will only scrub on or right near full lock when going across bumpy roads or up really awkward driveways. I left them on for a track day once (at Wakefield) and had no issues whatsoever.

Top choice :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205063-wheelios/#findComment-3631895
Share on other sites

Buy 18s .. Look better.. RUbber isnt that much

Get the above set staggered like above but run a +32 offset on the front will let them sit in a little more and not scrub.

Rears +36 .. Like below

Front: 18x8.5 (+32)

Rear: 18x9.5 (+36)

Enjoy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205063-wheelios/#findComment-3632043
Share on other sites

No they won't. I bought these.... Nismo LMGT4's

Front: 18x8.5 (+30)

Rear: 18x9.5 (+38)

In terms of tyres I put 235's on the front and 255's on the back. I've lowered my car a little and I had minor scrubbing on the front and back. Fixed the back with very little guard lipping and fixed the front 90% by raising just a tad (still lower than stock). The fronts will only scrub on or right near full lock when going across bumpy roads or up really awkward driveways. I left them on for a track day once (at Wakefield) and had no issues whatsoever.

Top choice ;)

Those are the ones I'm after :D Fell in love with them at first sight...

Not too keen on the rubbing side of things tho haha

Buy 18s .. Look better.. RUbber isnt that much

Get the above set staggered like above but run a +32 offset on the front will let them sit in a little more and not scrub.

Rears +36 .. Like below

Front: 18x8.5 (+32)

Rear: 18x9.5 (+36)

Enjoy

So those offsets will let me avoid the rubbing problem mentioned above??

I'm going to import them as opposed to buying them in oz for price reasons so I need the offsets to be exactly what I need. No just taking them back to the shop :P

How much will a tyre set me back on the 18's? And the +32 will clear the brake calliper?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205063-wheelios/#findComment-3632384
Share on other sites

So those offsets will let me avoid the rubbing problem mentioned above??

I'm going to import them as opposed to buying them in oz for price reasons so I need the offsets to be exactly what I need. No just taking them back to the shop ;)

How much will a tyre set me back on the 18's? And the +32 will clear the brake calliper?

I can't comment on the front offset but for me, the scrubbing at the front is negligible.

As for tyres, start ringing around. They vary a lot in price depending on brand/type. It really depends on how fussy you are. The more expensive ones can easily cost you around $1500 for a set but you can get a lot cheaper than that. Search the wheel/tyre threads. I know there's something in there were people compared brands and costs. That's what I used!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205063-wheelios/#findComment-3632443
Share on other sites

I can't comment on the front offset but for me, the scrubbing at the front is negligible.

As for tyres, start ringing around. They vary a lot in price depending on brand/type. It really depends on how fussy you are. The more expensive ones can easily cost you around $1500 for a set but you can get a lot cheaper than that. Search the wheel/tyre threads. I know there's something in there were people compared brands and costs. That's what I used!

Cheers man. Looks like I'll be going your offsets. As far as I know they don't even come in the offsets the other guys mentioned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205063-wheelios/#findComment-3633663
Share on other sites

theres a dude in melbourne selling some black lmgt4's to suit 33 gtst. have a look in the for sale section

Those are heaps nice. I'm just throwing up whether black is what I want or to go with the bronze :thumbsup:

Cars white so I guess either would do...................................................................

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205063-wheelios/#findComment-3634474
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
    • Did this ever go further ? Would love some updated info 
×
×
  • Create New...