Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

congrats nick.

doesn't it make a huge difference with the PFC tuned. so much low and mid-range power that is unlocked which transforms the car.

Thanks Andrew.

Yeah, it does! There's a little bit more lag, but that's to be expected with the longer piping of the FMIC kit... But once it's on boost, it pulls harder and feels heaps less held-back doing so!

I don't know if it's the new muffler (which makes the car a LOT quieter but still sounds nice), the new front pipe/dump, the new cat, the tune with the PFC in place, or a combination of the the whole lot working together, but it feels a lot smoother both at idle and through the rev range - there *seems* to be less vibration in the car overall...

Dyno sheet:

StageaDynorun16082008.jpg

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what boost control are you using (sorry if you already posted it) and how many psi were those runs at?

No boost controller, Andrew. I might get a Profec B sII later on, haven't decided yet.

I haven't had a chance to take it for a proper drive since I got it back on Saturday (in fact, it hasn't moved) because I've been a bit sick, but for the brief moments that I checked the gauge while I was driving, it read around 0.7bar, I think. I did a peak recall but can't remember what it read. When I take it for a good run I'll do a recording of the boost curve to see if it is constant or rises with the revs (gotta love the Defi's for that functionality!).

No boost controller, Andrew. I might get a Profec B sII later on, haven't decided yet.

I haven't had a chance to take it for a proper drive since I got it back on Saturday (in fact, it hasn't moved) because I've been a bit sick, but for the brief moments that I checked the gauge while I was driving, it read around 0.7bar, I think. I did a peak recall but can't remember what it read. When I take it for a good run I'll do a recording of the boost curve to see if it is constant or rises with the revs (gotta love the Defi's for that functionality!).

i have a turbosmart bleedvalve that came off my R33 if you want it. it'll cost you the time to pick it up.

or I can sell you my dual stage ebc (Hybrid brand) that holds boost fine for stock turbos, 12psi

no good for 1bar tho

cost me 270, plus install, can sell for a hundred I reckon

getting the profecB spec2 myself, to hold 1bar steady

No thanks guys, I think I'll eventually be going for a GReddy Profec-B spec II as well, as I hear nothing but good things about them.

Oh, I haven't yet done a "recording" of the boost curve up the rev range, but when I checked the peak boost last night after going for a drive, it's hitting right on 0.8bar (which is 11.76psi according to my calcs).

I've also noticed that it takes a lot longer for the turbo to cool down after a drive, so this leads me to two theories:

1. I'll have to check against the old standard dump pipe, but for now I'm assuming that the temp sensor has been placed in the same spot, and if it IS in the same spot; then

2. it looks like the turbo is now approaching that zone where the extra boost is no longer efficiently adding to power, and is now just added heat.

I agree with not going past the 12psi, however a good boost controller may bring that 12psi on harder and sooner which is what I have found testing witht he boost controller on and off.

I use a Blitz ID-3 and have on two different motors (one being twin turbo) and have found it to be fantastic on both applications.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm, fuelled up for the first time today after having the PFC (and other bits) installed, and my fuel economy seems to have improved at least a little.

I'll be going to Canberra in a week or two, so I'll see how the highway economy is and report back.

Alright peoples, I did a recording on the Defi's to see where my boost was sitting at, and as I mentioned it hit a peak of 0.85bar, which works out to 12.3psi, BUT that was only a spike lasting less than half a second.

When I watched the boost curve, it goes up and levels out at around 0.7bar, which is just a nudge over 10psi. Probably in a couple of months I'll get a boost controller, but I'll be going straight for a GReddy Profec B spec II, as I've heard nothing but good things about them.

the profecB are good units.

nevertheless if you want this bleedvalve is sitting here (for free) if you want it nick. maybe it bring it on quicker and hold a little better or maybe not?!?

Edited by wolverine
the profecB are good units.

nevertheless if you want this bleedvalve is sitting here (for free) if you want it nick. bring it on quicker and hold a little better.............

+1.

  • 3 months later...
so.... early series 1

engine harness : 09/96 - 08/97 24011-0V100

ECU : 23740-0V300

And a manual gear box

Would the R34 GTT Power FC work?? (Plug & Play)

or does the loom still need to be modified to make it work??

Unfortunately, there's no such thing as a plug-and-play PFC for the Stagea (unless you own a 260RS, in which case the R32 or R33 GT-R PFC will work). The Stagea is the only RB25DET-powered Nissan that also has AWD, so a few "tweaks" need to be done to get it working. Do a search for the "secret squirrel tweak" here in the Stagea section...

A manual gearbox is a priority, but as Duncan mentioned, Mark @ Hills Motorsports is looking for someone with an auto so he can trial running the PFC with the ECU for the auto, and see if he can get them co-operating.

  • 2 weeks later...

So the "secret squirrel tweak" is the only mod you need to to the loom!!

like Duncan said to me in a PM " since your's is already manual I think you'd be mad not to go a full computer like PFC."

i was talking to Trent at Status Tuning and was telling me to remap the ECU and go from there (E-manage, Safc...), then searching more on this forum about remapping the S1 stagea, only to find out that the S1 can't do real time?(Tangles Post)

not many tuners in melb. that have worked on the S1 and Power FC!

Remap fit and tune $750

+

E-manage fit and tune $1000+

Power FC and Mod, tune $2000

i just hope thats the only mod we'll need to do!

if the plug/loom is the same as an R33 then there should be no other modifications required for an R33 GTS-t PowerFC.

if the plug and loom is the same as the R34 then you will need to modify the loom to fit an R34 Gt-t PowerFC.

the tweak relates to the R34 GT-t having traction control and the stageas NOT having traction control (with the exception of some RWD versions). the R34 GT-t PowerFC requires a certain voltage to pin 51 or it lights the engine check light.

you need to find out which plug you have as that will determine the outcome. if a workshop has both R33 and R34 PowerFC's handy then that makes it easy.

Edited by wolverine

the stagea runs the r34 plug even is series 1 motor (same as series 2 r33 skyline). Depending on the computer part numbers as posted above there are somewhere between a couple and heaps of changes required to the wiring.

Mine was running the car really well except for Air Con which was not working yet (needs a relay added as stagea uses a negative/earth signal while the r34 uses a positive signal). The motor is currently out to have an rb30 bottom end bolted on the head so it should all turn out to be a good combo

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
    • I have a r34 sedan 1999 manual converted need some help with my speedometer it only reads upto 98km and then stops currently still running the auto cluster any easy fixes no speedo drive is connected yet, if someone has a video for wiring up the manual speedo sensor with the auto cluster please send through 
×
×
  • Create New...