Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

congrats nick.

doesn't it make a huge difference with the PFC tuned. so much low and mid-range power that is unlocked which transforms the car.

Thanks Andrew.

Yeah, it does! There's a little bit more lag, but that's to be expected with the longer piping of the FMIC kit... But once it's on boost, it pulls harder and feels heaps less held-back doing so!

I don't know if it's the new muffler (which makes the car a LOT quieter but still sounds nice), the new front pipe/dump, the new cat, the tune with the PFC in place, or a combination of the the whole lot working together, but it feels a lot smoother both at idle and through the rev range - there *seems* to be less vibration in the car overall...

Dyno sheet:

StageaDynorun16082008.jpg

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what boost control are you using (sorry if you already posted it) and how many psi were those runs at?

No boost controller, Andrew. I might get a Profec B sII later on, haven't decided yet.

I haven't had a chance to take it for a proper drive since I got it back on Saturday (in fact, it hasn't moved) because I've been a bit sick, but for the brief moments that I checked the gauge while I was driving, it read around 0.7bar, I think. I did a peak recall but can't remember what it read. When I take it for a good run I'll do a recording of the boost curve to see if it is constant or rises with the revs (gotta love the Defi's for that functionality!).

No boost controller, Andrew. I might get a Profec B sII later on, haven't decided yet.

I haven't had a chance to take it for a proper drive since I got it back on Saturday (in fact, it hasn't moved) because I've been a bit sick, but for the brief moments that I checked the gauge while I was driving, it read around 0.7bar, I think. I did a peak recall but can't remember what it read. When I take it for a good run I'll do a recording of the boost curve to see if it is constant or rises with the revs (gotta love the Defi's for that functionality!).

i have a turbosmart bleedvalve that came off my R33 if you want it. it'll cost you the time to pick it up.

or I can sell you my dual stage ebc (Hybrid brand) that holds boost fine for stock turbos, 12psi

no good for 1bar tho

cost me 270, plus install, can sell for a hundred I reckon

getting the profecB spec2 myself, to hold 1bar steady

No thanks guys, I think I'll eventually be going for a GReddy Profec-B spec II as well, as I hear nothing but good things about them.

Oh, I haven't yet done a "recording" of the boost curve up the rev range, but when I checked the peak boost last night after going for a drive, it's hitting right on 0.8bar (which is 11.76psi according to my calcs).

I've also noticed that it takes a lot longer for the turbo to cool down after a drive, so this leads me to two theories:

1. I'll have to check against the old standard dump pipe, but for now I'm assuming that the temp sensor has been placed in the same spot, and if it IS in the same spot; then

2. it looks like the turbo is now approaching that zone where the extra boost is no longer efficiently adding to power, and is now just added heat.

I agree with not going past the 12psi, however a good boost controller may bring that 12psi on harder and sooner which is what I have found testing witht he boost controller on and off.

I use a Blitz ID-3 and have on two different motors (one being twin turbo) and have found it to be fantastic on both applications.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm, fuelled up for the first time today after having the PFC (and other bits) installed, and my fuel economy seems to have improved at least a little.

I'll be going to Canberra in a week or two, so I'll see how the highway economy is and report back.

Alright peoples, I did a recording on the Defi's to see where my boost was sitting at, and as I mentioned it hit a peak of 0.85bar, which works out to 12.3psi, BUT that was only a spike lasting less than half a second.

When I watched the boost curve, it goes up and levels out at around 0.7bar, which is just a nudge over 10psi. Probably in a couple of months I'll get a boost controller, but I'll be going straight for a GReddy Profec B spec II, as I've heard nothing but good things about them.

the profecB are good units.

nevertheless if you want this bleedvalve is sitting here (for free) if you want it nick. maybe it bring it on quicker and hold a little better or maybe not?!?

Edited by wolverine
the profecB are good units.

nevertheless if you want this bleedvalve is sitting here (for free) if you want it nick. bring it on quicker and hold a little better.............

+1.

  • 3 months later...
so.... early series 1

engine harness : 09/96 - 08/97 24011-0V100

ECU : 23740-0V300

And a manual gear box

Would the R34 GTT Power FC work?? (Plug & Play)

or does the loom still need to be modified to make it work??

Unfortunately, there's no such thing as a plug-and-play PFC for the Stagea (unless you own a 260RS, in which case the R32 or R33 GT-R PFC will work). The Stagea is the only RB25DET-powered Nissan that also has AWD, so a few "tweaks" need to be done to get it working. Do a search for the "secret squirrel tweak" here in the Stagea section...

A manual gearbox is a priority, but as Duncan mentioned, Mark @ Hills Motorsports is looking for someone with an auto so he can trial running the PFC with the ECU for the auto, and see if he can get them co-operating.

  • 2 weeks later...

So the "secret squirrel tweak" is the only mod you need to to the loom!!

like Duncan said to me in a PM " since your's is already manual I think you'd be mad not to go a full computer like PFC."

i was talking to Trent at Status Tuning and was telling me to remap the ECU and go from there (E-manage, Safc...), then searching more on this forum about remapping the S1 stagea, only to find out that the S1 can't do real time?(Tangles Post)

not many tuners in melb. that have worked on the S1 and Power FC!

Remap fit and tune $750

+

E-manage fit and tune $1000+

Power FC and Mod, tune $2000

i just hope thats the only mod we'll need to do!

if the plug/loom is the same as an R33 then there should be no other modifications required for an R33 GTS-t PowerFC.

if the plug and loom is the same as the R34 then you will need to modify the loom to fit an R34 Gt-t PowerFC.

the tweak relates to the R34 GT-t having traction control and the stageas NOT having traction control (with the exception of some RWD versions). the R34 GT-t PowerFC requires a certain voltage to pin 51 or it lights the engine check light.

you need to find out which plug you have as that will determine the outcome. if a workshop has both R33 and R34 PowerFC's handy then that makes it easy.

Edited by wolverine

the stagea runs the r34 plug even is series 1 motor (same as series 2 r33 skyline). Depending on the computer part numbers as posted above there are somewhere between a couple and heaps of changes required to the wiring.

Mine was running the car really well except for Air Con which was not working yet (needs a relay added as stagea uses a negative/earth signal while the r34 uses a positive signal). The motor is currently out to have an rb30 bottom end bolted on the head so it should all turn out to be a good combo

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...