Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I decided to put $10 into of Mobil 8000 into my civic from Braddon 2 weeks ago as BPU was out for some reason. Even though it only a 1.5L honda, it stills runs really zippy on 98. I noticed it was sluggish and i mean like a truck and it even F'ed up my fuel sender, so now when it gets empty is jumps up to half full and sticks there till have about 1 L in there and it starts dropping down. I filled up with Vortex (96) and it was back to its little zippy self. I don't completly trust Mobil as it has never felt 100% right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3735691
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Just letting everyone know not to expect V-power for a while yet, if anyone understand how V-power is made a bit on the filtration pumping system blew up...so that has to be replaced and they need to order it custom made from China or Germany or wherever and as it is rather...huge...they need it shipped SAL...it has yet to even arrive in Australia.

If you have a preference for V-power and are in sydney, the 7/11 petrol stations stock it as their premium.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3774551
Share on other sites

I just make a note to stay away from woolies and coles. I used v power and it seemed fine. Then again so did mobil... I always fill up on mobil cos my car seems to like it the most. I filled up with BP while i was in sydney the other day, really dosn't feel any different. Today I filled up at woolies with their vortex 98, and again, i didn't notice any difference, if anything I think the car feels better than it did with BP. So what Have I gained? That most 98's to me seem the same, unless u have hooked up a comp to the engine management and gave us figures that are off by .0001 or something.

Very confusing when people say my car runs crap on this, this is crap cos it blows engines up, don't use this cos my mum said not to.........I say run ur car on racing fuel if ur that picky, or did your friend say his lancer ran like shit when he filled up with it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3779511
Share on other sites

I just make a note to stay away from woolies and coles. I used v power and it seemed fine. Then again so did mobil... I always fill up on mobil cos my car seems to like it the most. I filled up with BP while i was in sydney the other day, really dosn't feel any different. Today I filled up at woolies with their vortex 98, and again, i didn't notice any difference, if anything I think the car feels better than it did with BP. So what Have I gained? That most 98's to me seem the same, unless u have hooked up a comp to the engine management and gave us figures that are off by .0001 or something.

Very confusing when people say my car runs crap on this, this is crap cos it blows engines up, don't use this cos my mum said not to.........I say run ur car on racing fuel if ur that picky, or did your friend say his lancer ran like shit when he filled up with it?

What are you saying? I'm confused.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3779710
Share on other sites

I guess he's saying that the quality of fuel you get depends on SO many things that you can't really go on the stories given here (or anywhere else really). Because it varies depending on:

- The original content, who's sourcing it (Shell, BP etc... all comes from the same place originally, but I guess they place orders of varying quality).

- The particular servo you fill up at.

- Whoever's running the servo that month/week

- Whoever decides to top up the premium tanks with the regular stuff after hours (I know a person who use to do this)

- How hard your engine is tuned and therefore how susceptible it is tu fuel RON levels.

- Partly impacted by the remaining fuel from your last load (unless you ran it completely empty).

I'm paranoid about my car, and mechanic knows it, so gonna run a dual boost system and high boost will be 17ish (I think). Low boost for when I have to use crummy/suspect fuel. The way I see it, only absolute way to be safe from poor fuel is to use octane booster every load, or get your engine tuned so that if you DO get a poor load, there is some lee-way and your engine will handle it (ie a safe tune rather than a hard one).

Is there such a thing as a home-based RON testing kit? lol What's it mean if the stick goes blue? :)

Edited by sl33py
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3780819
Share on other sites

What are you saying? I'm confused.

Was pissed off cos last night i drove around for 15 mins trying to find 98 ron fuel, finally had to get it from woollies caltex (vortex98), never really wanted to fill up at woollies but I did anyway. I was surprised to find my car felt pretty much the same, if anything slightly more beefier.

Just found it funny how many people wrote things like, i filled up with this and it ran shit. Really unless you have used the petrol numerous times can you say its shit.

I think there should be no more posts containing:

"The other day my brothers, cousins, friends, cousins cat said it didn't like woollies petrol." - sounds pretty childish and unsupported lol, not really worth putting people off a certain petrol just because you don't like it.

Rather perhaps let people know where good fuel stations are, Ie if you are around Erindale, the best is Mobil, if your around Tuggers shops go to Shell.....

Unless your engine is tuned to run on a specific fuel, in which case what fuel runs good for you prob doesn't mean anything to me.

Hope that makes sense.

EDIT:

Was near empty yesterday and I was in Fyshwick. Out of 4 servos, none had 98 ron. So I thought I would fill up on the way home (southside) Went past Tuggeranong, which doesnt have 98 octane stuff, shell is out of vpower, woolies dosn't stock 98. Had to go to calwell to fill up. Is there a shortage of 98 or something? ALot of places simply don't have 98. i know when i was in gunghalin (lost) I found the first servo as was about to run dry, and it didn' thave 98. It's happened to me alot!

Edited by 33Sedan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3780877
Share on other sites

I guess he's saying that the quality of fuel you get depends on SO many things that you can't really go on the stories given here (or anywhere else really). Because it varies depending on:

- The original content, who's sourcing it (Shell, BP etc... all comes from the same place originally, but I guess they place orders of varying quality).

- The particular servo you fill up at.

- Whoever's running the servo that month/week

- Whoever decides to top up the premium tanks with the regular stuff after hours (I know a person who use to do this)

- How hard your engine is tuned and therefore how susceptible it is tu fuel RON levels.

- Partly impacted by the remaining fuel from your last load (unless you ran it completely empty).

I'm paranoid about my car, and mechanic knows it, so gonna run a dual boost system and high boost will be 17ish (I think). Low boost for when I have to use crummy/suspect fuel. The way I see it, only absolute way to be safe from poor fuel is to use octane booster every load, or get your engine tuned so that if you DO get a poor load, there is some lee-way and your engine will handle it (ie a safe tune rather than a hard one).

Is there such a thing as a home-based RON testing kit? lol What's it mean if the stick goes blue? :)

Haha just abit paranoid ;-)

I agree with the octane booster, would be nice, although when you fill up you pay like 70 bucks for the tank, + 20 bucks for the booster. Pretty freaking expensive lol. Wish I had money :-(

If the stick goes blue, means ur gonna be a proud dad of hopefully some more horses....

Edited by 33Sedan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20539-good-fuel/page/3/#findComment-3780886
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry for resurrecting an oldish thread Not much has happened in the past year since the last update. The car did another 1000 miles or so and failed the MOT for the first time in October (failed on tyres which had been advised for a couple of years) In October the car got put up for sale and was removed in November due to no interest, being so close to christmas it was to be expected. The roads were dry in February so I decided to tax it early and get the new tyres fitted.   Fast forward to April, I got someone in to give the car a good clean after sitting for the winter.                                 The car got re-advertised and today (Saturday 3rd May) the car sold. The new owner is planning a GTR conversion at some point and a respray in the same pearl white. It's bitter sweet, it's a shame to have the car sit there for half the year and then only do 1000 miles. The kids are growing too quick and space in the back is getting limited. It's been a great 6.5 years of ownership
    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
×
×
  • Create New...