Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive been looking around and its pretty hard to find an rb20det over 400hp, is it because its really hard to do or isit because nobody wants to do it? If any1 has an rb20 with over 400hp or even ones hovering around the 380 mark tell us how they drive and how it was to do !!! come on need some love for the old 2 litre engine ! (2.2, 2.4 exepted aswell :thanks:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205397-high-powered-rb20-such-a-thing/
Share on other sites

i can say proudly i love the rb20's speacialy if you no how to drive them..

im also interested in the big powered rb20's an if any, they dont seem to have good quarter mile times or rather huge

rwkw like some of the rb25's...

Ive been looking around and its pretty hard to find an rb20det over 400hp, is it because its really hard to do or isit because nobody wants to do it? If any1 has an rb20 with over 400hp or even ones hovering around the 380 mark tell us how they drive and how it was to do !!! come on need some love for the old 2 litre engine ! (2.2, 2.4 exepted aswell :thanks:)

here u go read this thread (78 pages of it ) its a thread deadicated to the rb20 engines

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...60r-t58229.html

im really interested in it cause i hear alot of ppl saying that there nearly imposible to get over 400rwhp but then u get the SR20 vs RB20 ppl saying that the rb20 is better, so if the rb20 cant get over 400hp clearly that would make the sr20 the better engine?..... i just want some hard facts about high powered rb20's as i do love them and i have a fairly worked 1 my self

edit: reading that link now cheers bro

Edited by Justa32
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh ok that makes so much sense. Thanks for clearing it up!
    • And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
×
×
  • Create New...