Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I'm selling the skyline, due to losing my license i really dont have the space to keep it in the garage so sadly it has to go.

Specs:

1994 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T

Black

5 Speed Manual

just done 91,000kms comes with all books & papers (book japanese tho)

Since ive owned it there has been no mechanical issues at all.

M-Spec Front Bar, Side Skirts, Rear Pods & Spoiler

Alarm + immobilser

3Inch Cat back exhaust with flutes

Tinted Windows

Issota Steering Wheel

razor gear knob,

Brand new JVC Double Din cd/dvd/mp3 player

venom boost/Vacuum & Oil Pressure Gauges

SK racing Shortshifter

HKS Tubrotimer

TurboSmart Supersonic BOV

K&N Podfilter

CoolingPro Type1 Front mount Intercooler 800x600x90(less than 1month old)

Front Strut Brace

Brand New NGK Spark plugs

Sony Explode Amp

2 Pioneer 12" subs in box

Heavy Duty Clutch

New Pads and Rotors (1 month ago)

Dash Resprayed Silver

also

I have a Brand new full kit for the car yet to be painted and fitted.

TRS front bar in 3rd picture below

BN side skirts and rear bar

The front bar is already fitted and drilled up and has been temperately sprayed with cheap black paint but will have to be sanded anyway when it get properly painted. skirts have been painted but not drilled.

Location

Flagstaff Hill, Adelaide SA

Price:

$15,500 ono with 3months Rego without new bodykit

$16,250 with new bodykit

Pictures

rsf05e.jpg

Pic taken be for Intercooler installed

2gw84cy.jpg

Pic taken be for Intercooler installed

35bh1sg.jpg

2hwz77n.jpg

Pic taken after with Intercooler and new TRS front bar

Please not the car does NOT come with the rims, thanks

Please contact me for anymore details.

Lewis - 0432 581 798

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205480-fs-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...