Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello peoples, i have a r32 turbo im my rb25 r33 gtst. i have had problems with my air flow meter so i used one off my mates he has a r32 gtst and my car flew. so i went to get a new air flow meter today and every r33 one a tryed was no good so i got a r32 gtst air flow meter now the car runs fine is my problem that i have a r32 turbo on a rb25 motor and thats why it dont like the r33 air flow meter????

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

this will depend on what motor you have

if your car came with stock pink label AFM its series 2 and you can only use series 2 (pink afm's)

if its blue or green then its a series 1 engine and you can use r32 AFM fine (as its the same unit)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3638355
Share on other sites

no im not using series 2 as ino there pink i have just been trying green label ones and the only one that works is the r32 gtst afm that has 4 gold pins not 5

and no the power is the same if not better coz this turbo spools up quicker lol so ur comment sucks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3638713
Share on other sites

this will depend on what motor you have

if your car came with stock pink label AFM its series 2 and you can only use series 2 (pink afm's)

if its blue or green then its a series 1 engine and you can use r32 AFM fine (as its the same unit)

do you no if the blue label air flow meters have 5 gold pins for the plug or 4 like a r32 one's do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3638715
Share on other sites

no im not using series 2 as ino there pink i have just been trying green label ones and the only one that works is the r32 gtst afm that has 4 gold pins not 5

and no the power is the same if not better coz this turbo spools up quicker lol so ur comment sucks

My comment doesn't suck, I would imagine it has very SIMILAR spooling characteristics as my engine. Yes it may spool quicker but it will choke top end.

Also how do you figure that a turbo that flows LESS air will make MORE power??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3639494
Share on other sites

no im not using series 2 as ino there pink i have just been trying green label ones and the only one that works is the r32 gtst afm that has 4 gold pins not 5

and no the power is the same if not better coz this turbo spools up quicker lol so ur comment sucks

Big talk for someone asking for help...

And bubba is right...power will be lower as the r32 turbo is smaller and flows less...and it will choke alot quicker than a r33 turbo...i think what you are trying to say is boost response is better...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3639552
Share on other sites

this will depend on what motor you have

if your car came with stock pink label AFM its series 2 and you can only use series 2 (pink afm's)

if its blue or green then its a series 1 engine

hmm... i have a S1 r33 and i have a pink afm???

works great. its a 95 model (so 1.5 or whatever..) but i know the 95(1.5) model doesnt have a s2 engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3640728
Share on other sites

hmm... i have a S1 r33 and i have a pink afm???

works great. its a 95 model (so 1.5 or whatever..) but i know the 95(1.5) model doesnt have a s2 engine.

someone has changed your afm plug to a series 2 one...for some reason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3640817
Share on other sites

i never said it was better, it makes the same power and everyone has told me r32 turbo is the same as r33 i dunno if thats right or not, but this car dont choke i dont have dino sheet but what ever a stock r33 would run with a front mount on 10psi im telling you it flys past a stock r33 as i beat one the other day he did the whole turning right thing after it lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3641657
Share on other sites

yeah a 32 turbo and 33 are very different.

its hard to measure and come to a conclusion that it would be quicker than a stock 33 simply because you 'raced' one on the street.

- he might not have been giving it as much

- missed a gear

- didnt know he was racing you

- or been a real shit driver

many factors..

just out of curiosity, how come you have a 32 turbo on a 33 anyway?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3641925
Share on other sites

and no the power is the same if not better

-same engine

-one has a larger turbo than the other

and you think it would be the same if not better, with the smaller turbo?

unless you have other hidden modifications that you are unaware of or its high flowed or something. i dont see how you could conclude this.

chuck it on a dyno and see what it makes i reckon :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3641926
Share on other sites

The turbo is going to make roughly the same power regardless of what engine it is on, larger capacity will just make the power earlier.

So, like I said, 160rwkw @ 4600rpm. Put a 33 turbo back on there and I bet you'll make ~180rwkw @ ~6000rpm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205530-r33-gtst-afm/#findComment-3642196
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...