Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Is This Bad Or Normaly (fuel)

r32toy

By r32toy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r32toy Apprentice

r32toy

Posted
Posted

Hi all, is this normaly for a r32 rb20det to drink so much fuel.. i put 35L and only got 200km out of it and did not thrash it much and its got a tacho for air/fuel mix and it always goes to rich when i put my foot down.

***mods***

-turbo off R33

-mines ecu

-front mount

-3" turbo back exhaust

-boost on 10

-BOV

thanks for any help, please let me know if its normaly to be wasting that much fuel cause of the mods it has.. or is it bad??

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205608-r32-is-this-bad-or-normaly-fuel/
Share on other sites
R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted

AFR guages are useless....just for looks, dont really serve a purpose as when you put your foot down the ecu goes into closed loop mode (i.e. does not use the 02 sensor to figure out the rite AFR it just uses its Air flow meter reading and calculates exactly how much fuel it needs). The 02 sensor is for lite throttle tuning for the ecu. Im assuming its hooked up to the 02 sensor like every other one iv seen.

Turbo motors are tuned this way (when you put ur foot down) in order to keep detonation down. Turbo motors are more prone to detonation than N/A engines and hence adding more fuel reduces the amount of detonation. Hence when you put your down the AFR guage goes straight to rich.

As for you economy...i get anywhere from 400km-450km from a tank (60L). So from 35L thats about rite. I wouldnt be complaining.

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted

put it on the dyno and see what afr its really pushing (my bet in the 10's despite the "mines ecu"), and those gauges are as useful as tits on a bull (unless its a proper wideband)

get it tuned properly, you'll notice a massive difference in ecomomy and power

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

It actually goes into OPEN loop mode when you put your foot down. CLOSED loop is at idle or cruise (vacuum) and uses the O2 sensor output to regulate fuel input.

I also get similar consumption as you.

Edited by bubba
mjfawke Collaborator

mjfawke

Posted
Posted
The 02 sensor is for lite throttle tuning for the ecu. Im assuming its hooked up to the 02 sensor like every other one iv seen.

Turbo motors are tuned this way (when you put ur foot down) in order to keep detonation down. Turbo motors are more prone to detonation than N/A engines and hence adding more fuel reduces the amount of detonation. Hence when you put your down the AFR guage goes straight to rich.

I run wideband, and the engine stays closed loop (14.7:1) even on light boost. So - shouldn't go straight to rich.

I also get ~ 10lt/100km despite caning it, but I am running a 3.7:1 diff and the car only weighs 1090kg.

R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted
It actually goes into OPEN loop mode when you put your foot down. CLOSED loop is at idle or cruise (vacuum) and uses the O2 sensor output to regulate fuel input.

I also get similar consumption as you.

Sorry my bad...shud have referenced my engineering textbooks for that one (i struggle to remember the course after i pass it!) haha...indeed it goes to open loop when you put your foot down, i.e. it doesnt use the 02 sensor to regulate the fuel requirements....but when on light throttle it goes into closed loop mode.

R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted
I run wideband, and the engine stays closed loop (14.7:1) even on light boost. So - shouldn't go straight to rich.

I also get ~ 10lt/100km despite caning it, but I am running a 3.7:1 diff and the car only weighs 1090kg.

Im not talking as in the second u put ur foot down, but as soon as boost and revs begin to wind up a bit (4000RPM +) it will wind out to rich...

r32toy Apprentice

r32toy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
As for you economy...i get anywhere from 400km-450km from a tank (60L). So from 35L thats about rite. I wouldnt be complaining.

Ok thanks mate, its my first turbo car so i dont know much about them but i dont mind if its alco on fuel :( cause there fun to drive and its worth it.

Thank you.

robots Experienced

robots

Posted
Posted (edited)

I got 495kms from 59litres of fuel in rb20det A31 the other day. Sedate driving. Rarely going past -0.2 bar vacuum on the boost gauge. So try to control your right foot and you can get even better economy.

Edited by robots
r32toy Apprentice

r32toy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
brothers rb20det r32 gets around 9-10L / 100km's. his runs rich (dyno to indicate this). so i think your economy is out the window, something is most likely wrong

I think your right.. because even my mates say my car wastes heaps of fuel even if i dont thrash it still drinks to much compared to there cars.. so i will take it to the mechanics tomorrow and see what they say.

Thanks everyone for your time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      R34 power steering

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
    • McGarryR32
      T56 In Gtr

      By McGarryR32 · Posted

      Did this ever go further ? Would love some updated info 
×
×
  • Create New...