Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone explain why Chrono 300v is better for my stock turbo R33 streeter daily?

I use 4100 and i thought it was good (guess i was WRONG then). Why is Chrono the sh*t apart from being fully synthetic (i get that part), any other reasons? Or it just has a better name?

the fact that it is FULLY synthetic "IS" the reason.

Your car will run on 4100 or any other kind of oil.

people treat their cars well.

if you were hungry, and felt like an apple, would you get one that's been left in the sun for a few days and a little bruised? or pay double the cost and get a perfectly green, perfectly round, bruise free, crisp, cool granny smith.

both will reult in no more hunger, but one will definitely be better for you and make you feel better.

/food comparison.

other than that, the people recommending the best are the same people who have spend many thousands on their motors and don't want to have to do that again, so they do "ANYTHING" they can to prevent that situation.

$100 for oil is cheap for them compared to what they spent to get their engines brand new, and they will do whatever they can to keep it that way.

the fact is that Taxis do million km's using just your regular shit $30 oil.

if your car is a street only car that makes under 200rwkw, and driven sedately most of the time, you can use the $40 4100 turbolight oil.

just check it and change it before the 5000kms.

from what I can remember when I was using it, that oil went black, realy quick.

I spent the extra $30 and got Castrol Edge 10w-60 - 5L for $70

  • 1 month later...
hi all,

i need some good oil but can't find a local stockist

dose anyone know where i can buy Motul turbolite 4100 10w 40

off the shelf.

i know it can be ordered but i don't have the time to wait for it

The closest so far has been dural *ftw

any help would be great

Mate you should be able to get Motul Turbolite from any Repco or Autobarn store!

Can someone explain why Chrono 300v is better for my stock turbo R33 streeter daily?

I use 4100 and i thought it was good (guess i was WRONG then). Why is Chrono the sh*t apart from being fully synthetic (i get that part), any other reasons? Or it just has a better name?

300V Chrono is specifically designed for race purposes. It does have excellent street applications but you probably don't need it unless your heading to the track on a regular basis. Check out linkauto.com.au and go to motul and then click products. If your looking for a step up above 4100 then 8100 Xcess has some of the tech of 300V and is a good compromise (incl price).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...