Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

spotted a hot as bayside blue 34gtr on hanson rd about 10ish this morning, had defect sticker and was on trade plates, sounded sooooo good!

also tonight some cock in a white 33 on drift r's down grand junction rd/hanson rd that thought he was awesome and had to rev at every set of lights no matter what car was next to him, boot it off from every set of lights and the odd wheel spin too, definately my hero! might wanna get that misfire checked too, if anyone wants his plates to report him, let me know :ph34r:

spotted a hot as bayside blue 34gtr on hanson rd about 10ish this morning, had defect sticker and was on trade plates, sounded sooooo good!

also tonight some cock in a white 33 on drift r's down grand junction rd/hanson rd that thought he was awesome and had to rev at every set of lights no matter what car was next to him, boot it off from every set of lights and the odd wheel spin too, definately my hero! might wanna get that misfire checked too, if anyone wants his plates to report him, let me know :ph34r:

What rims did the r34 have? hope its not my mate on defect

Very nice bayside 34R at boostworx today.

Waved to a blue 32r today about 3pm as I turned onto south road got a very strange look back.

And that 33 with custom blood orange paint and black lip spoiler on grange road, paint looks nice almost as if ford did it haha

spotted a white R32 last night near marion about 1030 , it has a bad cat or muffler it sounded WHEEZY actually blocked off a bit not good

white r34 4dr on expressway the other day, got a wave, think it s S???- 34 on the rego. car was for sale before near hallet cove ??

very wine red r33 with GTR wing , S plates at autobarn noarlunga , don't think its a GTR just GTR wing

white R31 s2 sil . flogging it up and down my street for the past few days. loud and obnoxious sounding and not a wise move

some muppets in a stick shift R31 on brighton rd , car full of kids who could barely drive a stick, cream or dirty white

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nissan/Pitwork is fine stuff. HKS is just marketing wank. I personally wouldn't do the idler if it is already new. If it looks and feels fine, it is fine. But as D says - it's cheap to add it to the job. The water pump ditto. Even more so. If it show no signs of problems, then it is nearly new - leave it.
    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...