Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if this is a normal reading for cold weather? This was normal driving home from work about 10mins ago, no hard boosting or anything, just cruising. And what exactly does this gauge tell me?

DSC00607.jpg

Thanks for any help.

Edited by NRV155
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205968-oil-gauge-question/
Share on other sites

Either you got no oil in ur sump. Or it is an oil pressure sensor problem, or oil pressure guage problem. I could keep going, but start with that first. Gauge should be reading about 4. If that guage is reading correctly and the car was not idling when you took that photo, I hope you work really close to home because you could cause some serious internal damage if you drove like that for a while.

Either you got no oil in ur sump. Or it is an oil pressure sensor problem, or oil pressure guage problem. I could keep going, but start with that first. Gauge should be reading about 4. If that guage is reading correctly and the car was not idling when you took that photo, I hope you work really close to home because you could cause some serious internal damage if you drove like that for a while.

Close - If that was indeed a true reading, I would think the motor would be dead after the first good hit.

There are two senders;

- A "on / off' type that illuminates when there little to no pressure

- A varible pressure sender that drives the gauge

If a little red light appears under the needle then you are in trouble.

I would say your like 99% of all the other Skyline owners with low readings... you have a dud sender / gauge.

Replace sender with a new one, or go after market asap. You know what they happens when pilots don't trust their gauges :teehee:

The other option is of course, the backing plate has come off your oil pump, preventing you from reaching proper oil pressure. Could get it checked out at a shop with a proper gauge.

Edited by GeeTR
  • 2 weeks later...

I did oil change and everything but the gauge still goes haywire. Its all over the place when i drive, like near 0 or it will just jump to 2 then 4 then 0 again. The red light has never come on though. I was also told just to worry about the red light aswell and get an aftermarket one, so thats what ill do. I initially thought the red light was linked to the needle but ive had the needle sit where it does when the cars turned off and no light came on, and the car was still running normal. I was also told i would hear it if there was a problem with no oil pressure anyway.

Its just the std gauge/sender dying i'd say

My one does it to but i've got an aftermarket gauge aswell so i know theres no problems

But if you're worried then yeh take it to a workshop and get them to check it with a mechanical gauge.

Make sure they do it when the oil is at FULL operating temperature though, not just warm.

That happens when you're not flooring the accelarator as i have the same problem as well. Example; when driving at a normal speed like 80km 5th gear for a while, the needle just drops close to bottom. But when i shift a gear down and accelarate, it goes up again. On cold it's above 4kg/cm2 for a while, then exactly at 4kg/cm2 then warmed at 2kg/cm2. At cruising and then suddenly brake till car stops, the oil pressure drops to the same level as well.

I wouldn't worry too much as it happens so frequently on my car. No oil leaks anywhere and i change the oil at every 5000km interval.

post-48477-1204960639_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...