Jump to content
SAU Community

Trackday Sandown 15th March Our Cheapest Ever Trackday

kevwrx

By kevwrx,
in Archived Events

 Share

Recommended Posts

kevwrx Proficient

kevwrx

Posted
Posted

Please note this date is completely booked out

Hi Everyone

We're conducting a High Performance Training and Track Driving Day at Sandown on Saturday 15th March 2008.

Note that this is Grand Prix Saturday.

We will be running the day as an 'open pit lane' day, but we will also have 4 qualified (Certificate 3 and 4) instructors with lots of experience.

We also provide lunches, tea / coffee / soft drinks, flag marshals and medical / rescue crew.

You do not need a CAMS or ASSA licence to participate in our High Performance Training and Track Driving Days

The format we run to is: 3 groups of fifteen drivers, twenty minutes of track time per hour.

Start time is 8.30 am for safety briefing, track is open from 9.00 am until 4.00pm

Cost is $200.00 per driver. (That is DAMN cheap)

If you would like to come along please call our office 1300 652 693

Please do not send me an email or a pm.

Guys

PLEASE NOTE THAT WE HAVE GIVEN PRIORITY TO DRIVERS WHO HAVE DONE TRACKDAYS WITH US IN THE PAST.

THERE IS ONLY 8 SPOTS REMAINING, FIRST IN FIRST SERVED

Note that no further discounts will apply to this course

Regards

Kev

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

eMsta Grand Master

eMsta

Posted
Posted
very keen... do we need a helmet or fire extinguisher to attend one of these days? any scrutineering requirements?

u can rent one of their helmets - but u have to tell Kev first via email

fire extinguisher might be useful - but i havent got mine.

just make sure your car doesnt leak oil/coolant etc (as i found out on my first track day)

sandown requires heavy braking, so make sure ur brakes are ok for that (brake pads).

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

I'll be attending, I have some brake pads (a fair amount on front) a little on rear, I think they're enough for the track day.

I just have to buy (or hire) a helmet :yes:

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
Keep in mind that pads wear quicker and aren't as effective the more worn they are. May be worth taking a spare set with you just incase.

I'm not that good with cars, so I'm not sure how I'd swap them over at a track day.

I assisted in changing the rotors on the R31 and that didn't go so well.

Anyway I'm *hoping* to get a PFC and tune before the track day so I might be able to confirm with a mechanic if its enough pad there or not.

Adz Experienced

Adz

Posted
Posted

I would strongly recomend the following to anyone doing a track day.

Replace the current pads with high performance items and put in some good quality fluid. I recomend HAWK HT-10's. The are pricy however they will last twice as long as any other pad you will ever use and they are not too harsh on disks. I would also recomend Endless pads or Ferodos.

If you are running a PFC make sure you get a nice and safe tune and take you hand controler to the track. Track conditions can never be replicated on the dyno so a safe tune on the dyno will be close to a good tune for the track as things get hot. I would highly recomend running Shell 100 fuel for the day just to keep thinks super safe. There is little time to be made by small increases in power. There is much more time to be made in driving smoothly. More power usally means more heat leading to a number of bad things.

These items will add to the cost of a track day but they are the CHEAPEST insurance to ensure the day stays as cheep as possible and you get maximum enjoyment.

There is nothing worse than only being able to do one lap due to brakes fading or going home with a broken car. You pay good money for one of these days with heaps of track time so best that you get to use it all.

Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted
If you are running a PFC make sure you get a nice and safe tune and take you hand controler to the track. Track conditions can never be replicated on the dyno so a safe tune on the dyno will be close to a good tune for the track as things get hot. I would highly recomend running Shell 100 fuel for the day just to keep thinks super safe. There is little time to be made by small increases in power. There is much more time to be made in driving smoothly. More power usally means more heat leading to a number of bad things.

no point using the Shell 100octane as it contains ethanol - if the cars not specifically tuned for it, the afr's will be far too lean. If your gonna use it, make sure you get the car tuned on it. Plus it will actually give you more kw than 98 if you get it tuned.

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted
no point using the Shell 100octane as it contains ethanol - if the cars not specifically tuned for it, the afr's will be far too lean. If your gonna use it, make sure you get the car tuned on it. Plus it will actually give you more kw than 98 if you get it tuned.

What the hell are you talking about?

Its a great idea to run the shell 100 or octane booster for a track day especially when the car hasn't been tuned on it. If the car has been tuned on it, then the tuner would've been able to push the tune further which means running it at the track won't offer you any extra safety.

Running 100RON on a car tuned on 98 will pretty much completely eliminate any knocking.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
What the hell are you talking about?

Its a great idea to run the shell 100 or octane booster for a track day especially when the car hasn't been tuned on it. If the car has been tuned on it, then the tuner would've been able to push the tune further which means running it at the track won't offer you any extra safety.

Running 100RON on a car tuned on 98 will pretty much completely eliminate any knocking.

Phil (interloper) is 100% right. Shell100 is an ethanol based fuel, ethanol burns faster, which causes the fuel mixtures to go LEANER. So unless your ecu is tuned for ethanol it will be slightly learner, which is not ideal for track use. If the ecu is tuned for ethanol, the fuel will definitely be beneficial and also reduce the likely hood of knock.

If your car is tuned for the premium 98RON fuel, just through in a bottle of GOOD octane booster, as a safe guard.

Interloper Veteran

Interloper

Posted
Posted
What the hell are you talking about?

Its a great idea to run the shell 100 or octane booster for a track day especially when the car hasn't been tuned on it. If the car has been tuned on it, then the tuner would've been able to push the tune further which means running it at the track won't offer you any extra safety.

Running 100RON on a car tuned on 98 will pretty much completely eliminate any knocking.

mate, you need to read up on the properties of ethanol. HPI magazine (Martin Donnon) ran a good article about the dangers of thrashing a performance car that was not tuned to run on fuel containing ethanol.

But once the GTR was tuned then it made more power everywhere :rofl:

If the fuel was 100octance with no ethanol, then you would be right. The existing tune would be fine, and the higher octane would provide a effective buffer against detonation.

Adz Experienced

Adz

Posted
Posted

So we are now talking about knok vs lean. I know which one id prefure to avoide. Knok knock... whos there.... a blown motor. Ethonol does contain more oxygen making your motor run slightly leaner but the increment is minimal and if my tuner recomends it its gospel in my books. The benifts of knock protection out weigh the small increments in a lean tune.

I have yet to see an octain boost that doesnt fill your motor with crud and actually works well.

Last time I run the stuff it covered my plugs in gunk and it knocked it head off.

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted

I ran it in my car, tuned on 98. Hottest day we had, thrashed the living shit out of it. Couldn't get it to knock past 18 and it wasn't possible to try any harder :rofl:

And thats after having high knock readings on the exact same car, when running Ultimate. No change to the tune between fuels :P

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

My car is tuned on 98, and i run 98 everyday. For trackdays i run Shell 100RON. Real world results is i get less knock on the track than if i ran 98RON.... little bit of extra protection.

In theory you're right about running a pooftenth leaner... but bottom line is ask your tuner. I know what mine says :rofl:

 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Duncan
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • drifter17a
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
×
×
  • Create New...