Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Roy, i have been toying with the idea of removing mine. I see that it is removed on n1 gtr's and alot of track cars. I dont really think having it is much of a bonus and probably a negative if you slide off the track and any great speed and need to stop?

Edited by 2630GTS

Here here, second that. For purely circuit I'd probably remove it.

I would never have crashed mine (on the street) if ABS was de-activated, but for 99% of the time would still prefer it.

IMO, 32 era abs is too slow acting and only 3 channel, therefore you'd be better off either removing it or upgrading it to something 4 channel and more modern, IF it's a circuit car.

Cant say that i have ever felt mine kick in, grabbed the odd front tyre every now and again but never felt the pulsing i would associate with ABS activating. maybe a problem with it?

Well on a bumpy circuit it will kick in - mine does at my local circuit quite alot.

Yes it is a bit slow acting & yes it is a bit heavy but I'd rather that than a flat spotted tyre.

Ok a quick list of parts and their approx weight from what has been found within posts on SAU.

this list is only the weight removed not replaced with any other items yet as stuff like exhaust needs to be replace with a difference system to get nett gain

2 x Door window, electric motor and guide for glass, switch, door card = 24kg

HICAS removal, soliniods, pipes, etc = 25kg

Fuel tank = 12kg

Steel exhaust system =15kg

Rear seat =6kg

Passenger front seat =12kg

A/C system =10kg

heater core, ducts and fans =10kg

Standard prop shaft =15kg

sound proofing ( tar like crap ) =8kg

carpet and underlay ( best guess ) =7kg

sound system AC control =10kg

interior trim ( best guess ) =8kg

Feel free to correct any of these or add some more to the list

Duncan is sure is a whole lot of work, and the sound proofing is a right pain in the a#@&.

still i have noted that i can feel the benifit of the weight off the car. Also found that the 18" wheels are lighter than stock, same with the brakes with 2 piece rotors.

about 160 + kg

will look into the added weight later this week

Looking at that list, really all you can loose on your typical street/track car like mine

would be around 100-120kg's after taking all i can out and putting all the saftey/uprated items in.

I'll get home tonite and weigh up all my aftermarket parts i have off at the current time.

cooler

drivers seat

exhaust

Bonnet

Headlight intake

Will update this in a few hours.

skylle I'm pretty sure the only difference is the later doors have side intrusion bars in them. If your gtr was imported and complied they added intrusion bars if it was early model so there is really no difference.

has anyone tried plastic windows? they are stated to be 1/4 of the weight of the automotive glass. and it can be legal on s.a roads(not sure on the others, just found a link. they legal in vic ?)

http://www.cityplastics.com.au/automotive.html <-- link

anyone know the stock weight of the front or rear windscreen?

rear quarter windows are only 1kg each or less so not worth replacing

Edited by Dan_J

im about to fit a lexan passengers window and remove the drivers (will use a net instead) You have to retain a glass windscreen for saftey in most events.

By the time you remove the glass, motor, regulator and wiring assosiated with it there can be decent savings per door.

Ive also removed all the old steel lines this week and replaced with alluminium/ speed flow fittings.

The steel ones are really not that heavy but the alloy is lighter and its fresh.

Andrew whilst you not using that headlight can I borrow it and make a mould? I want to make a carbon item but cant find a decent one to mould it from.

im about to fit a lexan passengers window and remove the drivers (will use a net instead) You have to retain a glass windscreen for saftey in most events.

surely most plastic windscreens for automotive purposes are safe :) and plastic would be saving you a pretty penny over lexan.

yer but skyline windows are hard to fit due to a frameless door and they have to be made out of 5mm material and are thermo formed to get correct curve.

easy to form them just put in boiling water for a few minutes then clamp it to the original glass to cool. would be 15 or more kgs in weight saving from all glass being replaced

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • True, might get it looked at. Found out you can in fact flatten the 12v battery relatively easily too the other day (kids lefts the hazards on) so meaning to get that checked in the new year. What's odd is it'll blow cold from both vents if you have the ac down as low as poss (18), but anything else the passenger one blows warmish. Also has been summer since I got it obvs but noticed it didn't seem to want to blow hot last night when we had a cold snap. 
    • You ask for things. You specifically state you want responsiveness. A link was provided for a far superior, more responsive option. Find a MX5 workshop that will install it for you. Maybe MX5 Mania will throw on the Fab9 kit. It seems they want to charge almost 14K installed for their kit, so if they charge you $6K to install the FAB9 kit then you'll be ahead? Though really, the 2.5 with a 2860 running low boost will more or less feel as good as anything else. It's a lot of displacement and a small turbo. Think of a more modern RB26 with one stock turbo :p TBH, truth be told I've been driving my own car, and use about 50% throttle at most for 99.9% of the time. Mr Bogan is likely similar so this is all going to be semantics for the use case he actually has. (He'll be happy with anything relative to now) However, the EFR is hands down far superior in this use case. You really, really, really, really do notice it over the Garrett or equivalent.  
    • You are correct, the earlier the torque, the earlier things snap
    • Gents, it will be getting the MX5 Mania kit and the 2.5 will be staying where it is My query was about the 0.64 or the 0.86, whilst the 0.64 might spool a bit faster, would the 0.86 be better IRT EGT and mechanical sympathy, with only a small difference in spool And as I assume I won't need alot of boost to get to 200kw, probably around 10 psi, and with max rpm at 6500, would high EGT even really be a issue with a 0.64 I'm heading into MX5 Mania at the end of Jan to discuss the install, so any info is welcome prior to that Basically have a chat and book a time so they can throw on the turbo kit, and fit a oil cooler with a thermostat, drive in drive out of course  In other news: just finished cleaning the car inside and out, it's now all ready to get covered in bugs and dirt driving to Goulburn tomorrow to lunch,  and go for a stroll along woolondilly River with the daughter and her boy, and of course, visit my grandcats and my new grandpuppy 
    • Sounds like it has an actual problem with mode select doors, or something.
×
×
  • Create New...