Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

You'll have to weld some flanges on to fit it.

And yeah it doesn't get that quiet by making power! Puts out a crazy rasp at high revs. Still a well designed muffler though so not TOO restrictive.

I really paranoid about driving with it closed. So I just take it nice and easy.

yea, so after say a year. the flange will have carbon build up.

so if the butterfly valve gains a bit of carbon, even with it open, it will still restrict the exhaust.

so a 3'' will be basicaly 2.50. this is my problem. have been thinking about this problem for a while.

a clear exhaust =loud

an impaired exhaust= quiet but restrictive :S

forgive my ignorance, is this item flanged?

incase i wanted to go back to my zetti muffler??

edit: is there any backpressure problems when diverting the gas flow thru a 1'' hole!!!!!!!!!

Yep, flanged.

Not sure what you mean with 1" hole - or do you mean when the valve is closed? If the latter then you simply go easy when it's closed, if you want to put the foot down - then open it to full.

OK...

I have my Varex fitted. Previously I had an Xforce cannon muffler (and resonator that was freaking me out due to it's close proximity to the ground), now fitted with a hot dog style resonator.

My first impressions are that overall, the Varex is quieter than my old cannon, even when wide open... but I've lost that horrible drone which was driving me nuts (yay).

I also went for the oval version with twin tips - this normally retails around $500 but I got it for $400 (long story :)

Performance affected?

Well, hard to tell after just the trip home from the exhaust shop... although I did do a semi-serious acceleration test from a standing start through to about 140km/h on a (mostly) lonely bit of highway - and it felt mostly the same as before. Might be a slight loss... hard to tell for sure until I get out there and try it again when it's all quiet. I suspect the turbo is spooling up a little higher in the rev range but again I'm not 100% sure yet.

One thing is for sure - it looks practically the same as the factory muffler and shouldnt get the cops all excited like the cannon did.

When set to quiet - it is damned quiet all right! In fact, all I can really hear is induction roar.

We spliced the wiring into the rear wiper power feed, so no need to run it to the bloody ciggie lighter...

Anyway, here is a quickie video I did which might help give you all a better idea of what it looks and sounds like. the first bit shows the old Xforce cannon muffler: http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=autQyxmR8N4

I might do a better video later on, as this video doesnt show the valve operating, or really show off the new muffler from all angles.

Edit - pic added:

post-46181-1204332899_thumb.jpg

Edited by Wayne_J
i woudlnt mind one of these if they came in 4" inlet

XForce have been saying the 3.5" versions are "coming"... although they've been "coming" for ages now.

I'll probably buy one when they eventually release them, and put my current on onto the Suby.

4" is kind of HUGE, isn't it?

wow a big difference... you can really hear the low end deep "bass" per say disappering when its closed up!

If i didnt have my HKS Silent Hipower i would get this one for sure.. =)

I was originally keen on the APEXi PS Revolution muffler... until I found out the retail price: $1700!

XForce have been saying the 3.5" versions are "coming"... although they've been "coming" for ages now.

I'll probably buy one when they eventually release them, and put my current on onto the Suby.

4" is kind of HUGE, isn't it?

not wen ur aiming for 350rwkw+ :domokun:

  • 3 months later...

Definately getting one of the twin tip ones. my ex has one of the cannon ones on her 33. sounds as quiet if not quieter than stock exhaust when the valve is closed and nice clean louder note when open and you dont get that annoying drone on the highway either.

Unreal thread guys, was looking for some more real world info on these things and bang there it is :) Think i might wait for the 3.5" version as well.

Great vids as well thanks guys

Cheers

I wouldnt hold my breath for the 3.5" version.

Theyve been saying theyre 'gunna' produce the 3.5" version for a long, long, long time now... I've no idea why this is so, you'd think it'd be a simple thing to do given all their other products and facilities.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I'm generally new to DIY projects, and I've browsed this forum and watched a lot of youtube videos but still have a few questions   Firstly, how does spray painting interior hold up? in particular like vinyl parts, my current mode of thinking is to use methyl spirits to take off original paint, clean/prep well, light coats, no primer or clear coat    Secondly, what is recommended for the headliner and, for example (my car is a r34), the A-pillars which are some kind of other fabric material, do you think I would be successful at retrimming these? or would it be better to go down the blacking out via Dupli-Color Vinyl & Fabric Paint    Any other advice / tips / tricks for refreshing/modernising these interiors?    Thanks
    • As title says  Pm a photo with what u have  Type m style would be good As Hidding a thick front mount
    • Just note that when trying to find a short in a globe power supply, it is best to disconnect the globe as it will allow current through to earth. With it unplugged it is easier not to get confused. Also with the r32 wiring, the high beam has 2 power supplies (one when you push the switch forward and the other when you temporarily pull it back; so if it is the high beam blowing you will need to trace both circuits
    • $75 Location: Gold Coast  Can post via Australia post
    • That's a short. Find the short. It will be somewhere between that fuse and the headlight. Start by removing the plugs from the back of the headlight and dimmer switches, and measure resistance to earth. Supply side (power from the fuse) should have none. The other side should have resistance compatible with whatever globe(s) is there (which is relatively easy to say for a normal globe, perhaps not as easy to say for LEDs). Anyway, if you have very low resistance, you defo have a short. Then you just have to run the wiring like you're running the bowel of a dog (on the operating table) that has swallowed something it wasn't supposed to.
×
×
  • Create New...