Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just trying to work out the crank....

from what i gatther its a rb30 crank.. offset ground.

standard 30 stroke is 85mm with a bigend bearing size of 50mm~

this mated with sr20 rods, same bigend as rb25-26 of 48mm~

so.. .5mm offset ground off will reduse the stroke to 84mm with a 49mm size, then ground down to 48mm to suit the sr/rb bearing..

then using the 26 block with 20mm taller liners...

rb26rods are 121mm sr20 rods are 136mm long, rb30 is 151 so the rods are half way in between. (sr20)

that leaves the pistons. asuming they go all the way to the top of the block, with a flat top to give a decent comp ratio. (not to high)

rb30 are A 32mm pin height where 26 are 30mm.

so using 30 pistons would be about right i think.. anyone?

  • Replies 241
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just trying to work out the crank....

from what i gatther its a rb30 crank.. offset ground.

standard 30 stroke is 85mm with a bigend bearing size of 50mm~

this mated with sr20 rods, same bigend as rb25-26 of 48mm~

so.. .5mm offset ground off will reduse the stroke to 84mm with a 49mm size, then ground down to 48mm to suit the sr/rb bearing..

then using the 26 block with 20mm taller liners...

rb26rods are 121mm sr20 rods are 136mm long, rb30 is 151 so the rods are half way in between. (sr20)

that leaves the pistons. asuming they go all the way to the top of the block, with a flat top to give a decent comp ratio. (not to high)

rb30 are A 32mm pin height where 26 are 30mm.

so using 30 pistons would be about right i think.. anyone?

well done Dave...everything else is nearly right...have another think about the crankshaft though.

oh, ps. it is a great power graph, but it doesnt seem to come on to boost very urgantly. not muck in a fast rize in torque. looks alot like a good v8 curve

Exactly....it makes 10+psi @ 2500, hence the big torque early.

Some more details:

Crank is a custom billet 12 counterbalance job. Don't try to rev those RB30 cranks too high!

Rods are SR20. Don't sweat the R/S ratio. 1.5-1.65 has proven to be ideal/desirable for a 4 valver in the 1-9000rpm range.

Modern materials and rod/piston designs mean longevity is not an issue, and shorter rod is a stronger,lighter rod.

Pistons are custom.

Camshafts are Nissan OEM.

Turbos are currently Garrett -5's, (about to make way for a very slightly bigger set).

We have now have it tuned at 24lb and it makes 468kw with plenty more through the mid-range.

I'll post a new dynograph when I get a chance.

Lots of sneaky tricks in this one. I probably shouldn't have sold it after all..... :D

cheers,

Exactly....it makes 10+psi @ 2500, hence the big torque early.

Some more details:

Crank is a custom billet 12 counterbalance job. Don't try to rev those RB30 cranks too high!

Rods are SR20. Don't sweat the R/S ratio. 1.5-1.65 has proven to be ideal/desirable for a 4 valver in the 1-9000rpm range.

Modern materials and rod/piston designs mean longevity is not an issue, and shorter rod is a stronger,lighter rod.

Pistons are custom.

Camshafts are Nissan OEM.

Turbos are currently Garrett -5's, (about to make way for a very slightly bigger set).

We have now have it tuned at 24lb and it makes 468kw with plenty more through the mid-range.

I'll post a new dynograph when I get a chance.

Lots of sneaky tricks in this one. I probably shouldn't have sold it after all..... :O

cheers,

An SR20 conrod is, what, 136 mm and say the stroke is 85 mm that's 1.60 to 1, which is not so bad, only slightly worse than an RB26 standard. It's the 1.4 of the OS Giken RB30 that would worry me.

Cheers

Gary

An SR20 conrod is, what, 136 mm and say the stroke is 85 mm that's 1.60 to 1, which is not so bad, only slightly worse than an RB26 standard. It's the 1.4 of the OS Giken RB30 that would worry me.

Cheers

Gary

The OS Giken RB30 rod must be a similiar 135ish length to need a spacer plate of around 30mm.

cheers

The OS Giken RB30 rod must be a similiar 135ish length to need a spacer plate of around 30mm.

cheers

The one I dissassembled had nowhere near a 30 mm spacer, it was what OS Giken call a series 1, with the machined spacer plate. The rods were standard RB26 length. The later design has a cast plate, I haven't seen one of them in the flesh, but the plate looks thicker in the photos I have seen.

This is the early kit;

OS_Giken_3L_Kit_Old_Style_Save.jpg

Cheers

Gary

The Trust 2.7L, HKS/Tomei 2.8L and OS Giken 3.0L all get their share of press. However i have only ever seen a demo carrunning the Apexi 2.9L.

I cant read Japanese, but looking at the numbers under pics etc i think the pistons are 87.3mm and use a 22mm gudgeon pin. So what does that make the stroke, about 81mm. Now it uses the std block and some of the text refers to 121.5mm to 118.95mm which i assume refers to the rod length. There is a pic of pistons but i cant make any sense of the numbers.

The demo engine is only using small 250/9.8 cams with an AX70P21 turbo running 1.6bar. The graph is impressive but still very small cc big turbo in shape

The Trust 2.7L, HKS/Tomei 2.8L and OS Giken 3.0L all get their share of press. However i have only ever seen a demo carrunning the Apexi 2.9L.

I cant read Japanese, but looking at the numbers under pics etc i think the pistons are 87.3mm and use a 22mm gudgeon pin. So what does that make the stroke, about 81mm. Now it uses the std block and some of the text refers to 121.5mm to 118.95mm which i assume refers to the rod length. There is a pic of pistons but i cant make any sense of the numbers.

The demo engine is only using small 250/9.8 cams with an AX70P21 turbo running 1.6bar. The graph is impressive but still very small cc big turbo in shape

From memory 121.5 mm is standard RB26 rod length. So the 118.95 may be some (2.55 mm) of the necessary shortening to fit the extra stroke (81 - 73.5 / 2 = 3.65 mm) in the standard block. The remainder 3.65 - 2.55 = 1.1 mm) must come from raising the gudgeon pin height in the piston.

87.3 x 81 = 2910 cc's

118.95 / 81 = 1.47 rod stroke ratio, which I personally think is a fair bit low for reliability and power.

Cheers

Gary

Ben, even though it goes against what you are trying to achieve, what kind of results would you expect by running a big single, say a T88H-38GK on this 2.9 set up. Would there be boost by 4000rpm and would 550-600rwkw be achievable on Shell 100 octane fuel.

  • 7 months later...
i would have loved a drive. :P

I went for a drive up Mt Dandenong....its mental!

not as scary as mine as the power delivery is so linear and smooth but all you have to do is look at the speedo every now and then to frighten the life out of you.

Lots of little sneaky tricks on this one that most die hard modifiers would not have even thought of or considered. A mega buck effort thats been done for the sheer love of it and the enjoyment the car has created. In traffic the Vic. HWP didn't even look twice at the car...even when pulled up next to them at the lights as its ultra quiet and idles like a stocker.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Dont tell me you're going stroker now?!?! What happened to "2.6L till i die" or whatever it was

lol...where did you hear that you Wally?...im sure that was only in your mind.

Im talking about non-obtrusive, quiet, unasuming, but very powerful stock looking and sounding cars. I hate driving my car...even the small distance from the shed to home (and you know how close that is). This car i could have easily driven around in all bloody day.

i didn't throw that RB30 bottom end in the tip to regret it...it was exactly that...rubbish. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I don’t really have any ideas how to set the timing on the CAS 😂, sounds like the top, sounds like it maybe misfiring as well as ticking,  got the box sorted 😌, must of been a air bubble on the clutch side
    • Use a 2' length of hose (that's 2 foot, not 2 inches) as a stethoscope to localise the source of the ticking. From cam covers? From exhaust or turbo manifold gasket? From injectors? From lower down in the engine? Etc. Use a timing light to set the timing. Put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the box. It's not the very best thing for the box, but it will take a box that refuses to engage a gear with other oil, and make it engage a gear. I had to put it in when I installed the R33 box I have in my car. It would not select ANY gear when running. Smurf jizz made it work. That was >10 years ago and I still use it. I'm stuck with it now. Failing that - rebuild the box.
    • Well done Duncan. The fuel tank bulkhead lid is also in great condition (some of mine were stuffed). These are now out of production and good ones like that are becoming hard to come by.
    • Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
    • Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
×
×
  • Create New...