Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am going to change radiator and hoses this upcoming weekend. Ive search thru the forums but i am unable to locate a picture of the drain plug which is apparently on the passenger side of the engine block somewhere near dump pipes?

If someone could supply a picture... that would be alot appreciated. My car is a R33 GTS T. Also can someone explain to me about this heater on full to fully drain the system?

Cheers,

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206435-coolant-flush-for-r33/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, i did this today. Jack your car up first, makes it much easier. I really wish I had a jack... On the passenger side, there is a 40mm hole in the cover, which you can see a plastic bung through. Grab your screw driver and undo this. If you leave your radiator cap off, only some coolant will drip off, then take the cap off later when you are out of the way. Make sure the heater is open so the coolant in the heater can be drained an be replaced. Otherwise you won't flush all the old coolant out. I don't have a photo, but its pretty easy to find. Good luck!

So its just a plastic bung? i would of thought it mite be a taperd screw of some sort? .. wouldnt it fall out to easy if it was plastic ? .. would N/A be different to Turbo?

in regards to bleeding the system i heard u just turn on the car for a bit with the cap off and the air will bubble out. THen you just keep topping up...

Or have you got a different method?

Thanks for all your help NA_goodness i really owe u on this one.

oh and btw if i leave the heater on wouldnt it flatten my battery?

Edited by br3ndan

Ensure car heater is on hot (not fan, this ensures that the water in the heater coil is exchanged over aswell)

Remove radiator cap (vaccum will slow the drain considerably)

At bottom of radiator theres a plug, unscrew and drain water from radiator, hoses, and head.

Underneath exhaust manifold, at bottom of block theres also a plug, unscrew and drain water from block.

Pull radiator out, flip upside down and flush with garden hose, drain and refit and plug

Flush block with garden hose, drain, refit plug

Fill cooling system with premix inhibitor, or mix concentrate solution with demineralised water

Fit radiator cap, ensure overflow bottle is full, start car until warm

At the top of the plenum theres a radiator drain plug (You can also use temp sender). Remove and wait until water starts pouring out and refit.

Stop car, top up overflow bottle and radiator if needed.

Edited by Jmaac

Seems like a lot of work, at work we just use a hose to flush it all out. Too much effort to take the radiator out and muck around with that. If you use tap water in the cooling system, it will corrode your radiator, but just cleaning it should be fine, but its up to you how you do it. Bleeding the system is pretty much just running it for a while, letting the air bubbles escape. When it starts to overflow, i usually put my hand over it to make it go into the overflow tank and dont waste it. If your in a hurry, you can over fill the overflow tank, and it'll suck the coolant in as it is needed, but it probs isnt recommended.

thanks alot guys, i will be doing this on sunday... i will take photo as i go so we can make kinda a DIY on this. =)

As for the raditor.. doesnt really matter im going to take it off anyway... got a brand new twin core alloy one. =D .*drooool*

Edited by br3ndan

If u have a stock ecu it may run funny :/ you'll have to alter the temperature tables/conversion factors in the ecu to get it running nice and smooth i.e. poor cold starts, runs richer etc. Thats only if the cooling capacity (capacity to cool, not water volume) is increased and normal operating temperatures are reduced

Just make sure you bleed all the air out of the head. No amount of water will fill the cooling system if theres a big air bubble sitting up in there.

If your feeling really handy you could just scale the signal from the temperature sender with a few electronics

Ill scan the RBxx instructions and get them up for u

Edited by Jmaac
  • 1 month later...

The water in my car has gone all rusty since the last owner never bothered to put coolant in it, any idea if there is any special stuff to do a real good job of cleaning it out?

also anyone know how many litres the cooling system holds?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...