Coolant Flush For R33

[W0rp3D]

thanks jmaac.

[big col]

Bump! I got my coolant flushed recently because of possible corrosion. The place that did it said that the old coolant was probably just dirty and that there wasn't any rust in the radiator. Last time I go there because a few weeks later after checking if it needed a top up the cap had all this brown rust-like crap all over it. I was thinking of getting a new radiator with my tax return, would I need new hoses as well? Also what would be the rough price I'd be looking at.

Any recommendations of places in Perth (NOR) would be great too. Really wanted to spend my tax return on something other than the car, already spent too much on it!

[br3ndan]

I did mine.. (haha this is my topic.!!)

I bought a dual alloy radiator of SAU group by... cant remember how much.. roughly 400 from memory.

I did replace my hoses... these can be sourced from the sponsors on SAU. They are approx $70 + postage. The reason why i changed my hoses was because it was only an extra 70$ and then i know they are new. =)

Flushing the engine is important not just the radiator. When you replace your radiator, once the old one is out, simply pull off the heater hose, and put a garden hose up it, and flush out all that old stuff.

Bolt in the new radiator/hoses. And fill her up with the new coolant ~ 8litres (buy 10 to be safe)

Dont forget to bleed the system, Dont worry too much about this.. as long as you get a decent amount in there, it wil bleed it self out over the next few days... just keep topping up the overflow bottle until it has stablised... as it well keep going down as the air lets it self out and sucks in more coolant.

Overall took me about a day to do it. Started roughly 10am finshed 5pm... but thats me mucking around... taking my time and having a few drinks.

so the things i did

1)changed radiator

2)Changed hoses

3)Full engine coolant flush

4)replaced coolant with Techloy 100 (around 8 litres from memory)

Hope this helps! =D

Here a pic of my "smick" engine bay with alloy radiator =)

Edited June 22, 2008 by br3ndan

[teng]

Off topic here, i wish some company would make a wind deflecor plate for R33 Series2

Most of the good brands like ARC and Cusco don't have any for series2 cause of how the grill is shaped.

[suwidji]

is the method and drain plug location for a 34 gtt the same as 33?

if so, do you have any photos of the process? I "had" a coolant leak somewhere, as whenever i drove the car out of the garage i saw a small pool of green lol. Everytime i topped up the overflow, it went empty in a few days and i dont know where it went.

Opening my engine bay, i see something has splashed around and left white splash marks around the place, around the radiator included.

So i wish to change out my radiator to a new one, and flush my cooling system too.

[StevenCJR31]

Make sure you flush the cooling system with the old radiator in place as you dont want to stir up sediment in the block and end up blocking the tubes on the new radiator

[Missileman]

highly recommend cooling system flush by evapo-rust... http://www.evapo-rust.com.au/Shop%20Online.htm

http://www.evapo-rust.com.au/

Edited September 12, 2013 by Missileman

[suwidji]

So are the drain plugs on both the radiator and the engine block easy to find and reach? Also, is it in the same position for the 34 as it is for the 33?

I've heard that the 34 drain plug is a biatch to get to?

[SargeRX8]

  On 12/09/2013 at 9:11 AM, StevenCJR31 said:

Make sure you flush the cooling system with the old radiator in place as you dont want to stir up sediment in the block and end up blocking the tubes on the new radiator

Can't you flush it with no radiator in there? That way you don't risk putting any old dirty shit in from the other end.

Also the bleed method you guys described isn't thorough. Air in your cooling system has potential to raise temps which is not good.

To bleed correctly, fill the rad with water, start the engine and was the coolant drops, top it up. While its running and not up to temp yet there is a small screw to the right of the throttle body. This is the bleed valve. It is the highest point in the water cooling system in your car. Any air in your car will rise by law of physics. You release this valve(its just a 10mm nut), NOT ALL THE WAY just enough so its open and you will hear air hissing out sometimes. When the engine starts coming up to temp, the whole system will build pressure and it will rapidly start spitting coolant and blowing bubbles. When the bubbles stop and all you see is the system pissing out coolant, tighten it up and ensure during the whole process you were topping up coolant as necessary. I repeat this a couple times. At all times during the bleeding process ensure your heater is on to max heat and operating. Monitor your temps for the next few days and make sure they're within normal range. DO NOT OPEN THIS VALVE WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. There is a warning on the valve saying this.

Just check the bottom left or right corner of the radiator the plug should be there. If you're changing your radiator just drop the whole radiator and shove a hose in the top feeder hole and it will all drain out through the bottom.

Edited September 12, 2013 by SargeRX8

[StevenCJR31]

yes you could flush it without the radiator but you risk localised hot spots in the head as i doubt you could get the water into the head and get it to stay there

[darksky34]

  On 12/09/2013 at 10:40 AM, suwidji said:

So are the drain plugs on both the radiator and the engine block easy to find and reach? Also, is it in the same position for the 34 as it is for the 33?

I've heard that the 34 drain plug is a biatch to get to?

yes both of the valves are on the top of the engine, one is at the back near the AAC valve and the other is near the front of the engine (both have "DO NOT TOUCH WHEN HOT on/near them so should be pretty obvious). the 34 drain plug is NOT a biatch to get to, it is a very nice easy girl, just simply stick your head under your mud tray directly under the passenger side of the radiator (left) and you will see a hole, shine a torch up that hole you will see the plug, use a screwdriver to let her loose!

and if you're still not sure have a good search around here because there are threads with pictures (for the r33 but same thing for 34).

[StevenCJR31]

The r34 drain plug is a biatch to get to (the one sudwidji asked about)as its behind the exhaust side of the block and its easy to round off the plug as it is short and hugs the block

[darksky34]

  On 13/09/2013 at 4:45 AM, StevenCJR31 said:

The r34 drain plug is a biatch to get to (the one sudwidji asked about)as its behind the exhaust side of the block and its easy to round off the plug as it is short and hugs the block

are we talking about the drain plugs which you undo to release the air after putting in the new coolant?

[Missileman]

The drain is the one on the exhaust side of the block, the two up top on the intake manifold are bleeds.

[89CAL]

Two up top? I thought there was only one on a little manifold?

The Block drain is on the exhaust side as has already been said, just below where the coolant feed for the turbo comes out

[Ben C34]

Theres one at the front and one at the back of the inlet manifold. The one at the back is part of the alluminium casting, the front one is part of some hard pipework .(the manifold you mentioned) and just noticed it was mentioned a few posts ago

Edited September 17, 2013 by superben

[StevenCJR31]

  On 17/09/2013 at 12:44 AM, darksky34 said:

are we talking about the drain plugs which you undo to release the air after putting in the new coolant?

Nup, the one im refering too is only removed when

You are draining/flushing the block, if you have sausage fingers like me then you will have "fun" removing and replacing the plug

[Missileman]

  On 17/09/2013 at 2:37 AM, 89CAL said:

Two up top? I thought there was only one on a little manifold?

The Block drain is on the exhaust side as has already been said, just below where the coolant feed for the turbo comes out

I thought there was only one too, until I read it in this thread, but I can't check as I've only a RB20

[89CAL]

I have a greddy manifold and got rid of the bleed manifold so I have none lol. Been a while since ive had standard stuff

[darksky34]

  On 17/09/2013 at 4:40 AM, StevenCJR31 said:

Nup, the one im refering too is only removed when

You are draining/flushing the block, if you have sausage fingers like me then you will have "fun" removing and replacing the plug

ah i see. i also have sausage fingers, and i had no idea there was another plug...fark.