Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Low Down guard rolling has a mobile service. I'll get contact details for you at work tomorrow Abu.

Thanks man, appreciate it.

Athid

Yep spoke to Athid already, he charges a $30 call out fee + $50 per side

See if anyone can beat that.. if not then I may just wait till I can drive it somewhere and get it done.

If you need rims to get around on man, you know where I am.

ah awesome, thanks heaps man.

I got some rims on the car but if it bounces it will touch the guard and the last thing I want is to cause some damage.

I don't want to reset the suspension just to drive it somewhere to get the guards rolled, so hoping someone can just come around and do it.

Worse case I'll just put some other wheels on and drive it somewhere, once its drivable that is.

Edited by abu
Low Down did my old car, did quite a good job. If he hasnt changed his number its 0438 892 344 - Gavin

Thanks man, is he on SAU or NS.com?

Might just send him a PM first rather than calling him out of the blue.

Edited by abu
Thanks man, is he on SAU or NS.com?

Might just send him a PM first rather than calling him out of the blue.

No probs. Im not too sure, I just got his number from my best mate who got his guards done a week before I got mine done

No probs. Im not too sure, I just got his number from my best mate who got his guards done a week before I got mine done

id like to get mine done,but ive heard some horror stories of the paint cracking,which makes me wary of doing it

id like to get mine done,but ive heard some horror stories of the paint cracking,which makes me wary of doing it

Hey

Paint only cracks when you actually flare the guard, but if your just rolling the inner lip of the guard so not modifiying the external/outside of the guard then there shouldn't be any reason the paint would crack.

Gee your lazy hit the search button Poof :thumbsup:

lol

Search buttons for poofs

Abu, as Shadz has posted, Gavin's number is 0438892344. Nice bloke. Has an old school sled. Last time i saw it it was in pieces.

Thanks for Scott, will give him a call today and see if i can work something out.

Thanks for all the help.

Hey

Paint only cracks when you actually flare the guard, but if your just rolling the inner lip of the guard so not modifiying the external/outside of the guard then there shouldn't be any reason the paint would crack.

lol

Nope as you are folding the metal inside and rolling it.. it still puts stress on the lip..

Mine were rolled only.. and they developed slight spiderweb cracks

Paint only cracks when you actually flare the guard, but if your just rolling the inner lip of the guard so not modifiying the external/outside of the guard then there shouldn't be any reason the paint would crack.

lol

Rolling the guards will cause cracking...how much it will crack will depend on the condition of the paint and how skilled the guard roller is...and heating the crap out of the guard helps too...

Rolling the guards will cause cracking...how much it will crack will depend on the condition of the paint and how skilled the guard roller is...and heating the crap out of the guard helps too...

heat it to much and you will blister the paint though

you must becareful :banana:

Can't you 'make' a crack along where you want it to before you start rolling to minimise cracking in unwanted areas? Just say you were just rolling the inside lip and you were scared of the paint cracking out to where you could see it, can't you get like a stanley knife and make a scratch inside the guard so that when it's rolled, IF it cracked, it'll crack in that spot? Did I make any sense?

Can't you 'make' a crack along where you want it to before you start rolling to minimise cracking in unwanted areas? Just say you were just rolling the inside lip and you were scared of the paint cracking out to where you could see it, can't you get like a stanley knife and make a scratch inside the guard so that when it's rolled, IF it cracked, it'll crack in that spot? Did I make any sense?

Yeah was just talking to LEANBAC about this before, if you cut lines into it, it folds over easier so causing less strain on the paint and stretch, if any.

But I haven't seen/heard of people cracking the paint by just rolling the lip in, so not flaring the guard.

My friend had his R32 done not long ago and it was fine, also my cousin used to do guard rolling and it used to come up awesome.

They didn't used to flare just roll the lip as they couldn't guarantee the paint wouldn't crack.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...